Hard water
- Thread starter Almonzo
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Welcome!
Hard water and high pH aren't all that much of an issue unless you are trying to breed fish. As long as they are stable and new fish are slowly acclimated, it should be fine.
Hard water and high pH aren't all that much of an issue unless you are trying to breed fish. As long as they are stable and new fish are slowly acclimated, it should be fine.
No reason to worry about hard or high ph water.marketing managers are trying to make a buck by saying that you need certain water properties.
my water is 21+dkh and 8.5pH.
this is unless you are trying to keep super sensitive species that will not survive at all in certain circumstances....but this is very rare.
fish will still breed successfully in the 'wrong' water.
my water is 21+dkh and 8.5pH.
this is unless you are trying to keep super sensitive species that will not survive at all in certain circumstances....but this is very rare.
fish will still breed successfully in the 'wrong' water.
Another suggesting, pick fish that naturally prefer hard water. Mollies are a good option, or African cichlids.
Like the guys have said, most fish will adjust to a wide range of pH and hardness, but if you choose fish that actually LIKE your water to start with, then that's one less potential problem.
The issue with softening water is that you need to actually REMOVE something from the water. Dissolved mineral salts. Adding more chemicals generally doesn't do that. So the most practical way is to dilute it with pure water. Reverse Osmosis filtered, or even rain water if you are able to catch nice clean stuff. Mix that with your hard tap water and you can get whatever hardness you want.
But that's a big hassle if you don't actually need to do it.
Normal domestic water softeners work by replacing the calcium and magnesium salts with Sodium Chloride (plain salt). People don't notice a little salt in the water, and now your soap works properly again, but it's not much improvement for the fish.
Ian
Like the guys have said, most fish will adjust to a wide range of pH and hardness, but if you choose fish that actually LIKE your water to start with, then that's one less potential problem.
The issue with softening water is that you need to actually REMOVE something from the water. Dissolved mineral salts. Adding more chemicals generally doesn't do that. So the most practical way is to dilute it with pure water. Reverse Osmosis filtered, or even rain water if you are able to catch nice clean stuff. Mix that with your hard tap water and you can get whatever hardness you want.
But that's a big hassle if you don't actually need to do it.
Normal domestic water softeners work by replacing the calcium and magnesium salts with Sodium Chloride (plain salt). People don't notice a little salt in the water, and now your soap works properly again, but it's not much improvement for the fish.
Ian
Dangerdoll
Global Moderator
agree with both posters here... and want to say that the major goal for the tank is to be sure it's stable. The pH levels and the hardness of the water isn't and shouldn't be a problem because that's what comes from your faucet. You don't want to have to continually add chemicals each time you do your water changes because it's a waste of money and time. You will benefit much more with not having to having to chemically enhance the tank each time you do your changes and have more time to enjoy the hobby instead of making a major project out of it. Remember, it's supposed to be relaxing 
Water hardness
While most people argue about GH and kH it is normally not a problem that would be considered an Emergency. GH is the general hardness and is a measure of the dissolved calcium and magnesium salts. These salts influence the metabolism of Fish, Plants and other microorganisms. Most freshwater Fish will do fine with GH 6-16 <Degrees of Hardness> Some use kits that show PPM.
kH is your Carbonate hardness which shows the Carbonate and Bicarbonate content in your water. kH and PH are interdependent and of the 2 is most important. Higher kH is more alkaline which increases the PH. Because a high kH's buffering effect the PH is stabilized against fluctuations which means your PH will not change much or at all insuring your Fish are safe. PH swings are a big killer of Fish and Plants. The lower your kH the more acidic the water is and you PH is lower and less stable. Theis means your PH can change very fast from even minor things. Kh is best in the range of 3-10 degrees of hardness.
The safest best way I have found to lower the kH slowly and bringing the Ph to a loweer level is using a Water softener pillow that can be recharged after use and is placed into a filter slot for 2 days cycles. No chemicals, no clouds this will also help stave off those white deposits you get on everything as a result of high kH. Aquarium Pharmaceuticals makes pillows and are the ones I use, they come in different sizes and can be recharged in their container with aquarium salt and water mixture.
Due to being an active Fish lover I always test water to see what's what and have discovered that bottled drinking water and water from RO units literally have a super low GH, kH and as a result PH. PH coming in at 6 which for some Fish can be good but horrible for Humans either way lol we require water in the 7.0 range just a little tidbit there Hope all this helps
While most people argue about GH and kH it is normally not a problem that would be considered an Emergency. GH is the general hardness and is a measure of the dissolved calcium and magnesium salts. These salts influence the metabolism of Fish, Plants and other microorganisms. Most freshwater Fish will do fine with GH 6-16 <Degrees of Hardness> Some use kits that show PPM.
kH is your Carbonate hardness which shows the Carbonate and Bicarbonate content in your water. kH and PH are interdependent and of the 2 is most important. Higher kH is more alkaline which increases the PH. Because a high kH's buffering effect the PH is stabilized against fluctuations which means your PH will not change much or at all insuring your Fish are safe. PH swings are a big killer of Fish and Plants. The lower your kH the more acidic the water is and you PH is lower and less stable. Theis means your PH can change very fast from even minor things. Kh is best in the range of 3-10 degrees of hardness.
The safest best way I have found to lower the kH slowly and bringing the Ph to a loweer level is using a Water softener pillow that can be recharged after use and is placed into a filter slot for 2 days cycles. No chemicals, no clouds this will also help stave off those white deposits you get on everything as a result of high kH. Aquarium Pharmaceuticals makes pillows and are the ones I use, they come in different sizes and can be recharged in their container with aquarium salt and water mixture.
Due to being an active Fish lover I always test water to see what's what and have discovered that bottled drinking water and water from RO units literally have a super low GH, kH and as a result PH. PH coming in at 6 which for some Fish can be good but horrible for Humans either way lol we require water in the 7.0 range just a little tidbit there
Hope all this helps
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I disagree...pH in of itself has no effect on osmotic balance. Most deaths occur because TDS (total dissolved solids) change too rapidly. Planted tanks with injected CO2 can see pretty significant pH drops with little affect on the fish. pH problems occur when it drops below 6 or so and certain physiological functions such as sodium uptake start to fail and the nitrifying capabilities of bacteria are decreased.
TDS is most important, however not a lot of hobbyists own a TDS meter. GH and KH are much closer measurements than pH is.
Water softeners remove Ca2+ and Mg2+ by replacing them with 2 Na+ ions. That increases TDS, even if the water is "softer". And pure RO water should have a pH of 7.0...
TDS is most important, however not a lot of hobbyists own a TDS meter. GH and KH are much closer measurements than pH is.
Water softeners remove Ca2+ and Mg2+ by replacing them with 2 Na+ ions. That increases TDS, even if the water is "softer". And pure RO water should have a pH of 7.0...
hard water and high pH is not a bad description of what comes out of my tap. I have chosen to keep rare livebearers rather than the typical tetras. That way the water is actually not a bad match for my fish. My livebearers reproduce readily and the few egg layers in my tanks do OK but rarely reproduce. I am now trying to work with Betta simplex, a mouthbrooder, to see if I can actually get something besides livebearers to thrive in my tap water.
To which I'd add that humans are absolutely fine with a water pH from 4.0 to 10.0, possibly higher or lower. House pipes are actually the limiting factor here.