Help! Algae (I think)

G

gregatwan

AC Members
Jan 13, 2009
14
0
0
41
Hi all,

I have a 55 gallon freshwater tank that's about a month old with 6 fish and a bunch of live plants. I think there's some green algae forming in the tank—there's a thin green film starting to form on some of my decorations. I took out the verdant ornaments and scrubbed it off, but I'm assuming this isn't a good thing.

What causes the green algae to form? Is it bad for the fish/the plants, or just an aesthetic nuisance? What can I do (short of adding algae-eating fish, since I'm wary of adding more fish before the tank is fully stabilized) to eliminate the algae

Thanks! Greg
 
algae is usually the result of imbalance in the tank.. basically light and nutrients.

how long are the lights on?
 
The lights are on very regularly 12 hours a day, from 9 to 9. Should I change/vary that? As for nutrients, I am a little worried I'm overfeeding the fish, but they eat what I give them (about 4 flakes for all 6, twice a day) very hungrily within about 90 seconds.

Is the algae bad for the fish or the plants?? What are its long term effects?
 
The idea that algae is a result of imbalance is more specifically in reference to a planted tank where the water tends to be rich in plant foods. Then an algae outbreak is generally a result of a fertilizer imbalance- between macros micros and carbon availability. We deliberately pump all kinds of stuff in our tank water under very high light- all of which are fertilizers that can be used by plants or algae, and if we don't add them in the right quantities and maintain the optimal levels we will get algae.

In a tank that is not planted, you don't need that balance- you don't need any of it! You're not going to be adding any fertilizers and you're not really seeking that balance between nitrogen and potassium and iron etc.

Algae is very natural, especially if you have high light (or possibly direct or indirect sunlight hitting the tank) it generally does not indicate anything bad per se. You can test for nitrates and phosphates which are naturally occurring and also they are plant and algae food! Elevated levels may encourage your algae growth. Especially in a new tank where you may still have unconverted ammonia- ammonia is an excellent source of nitrogen, even better than nitrates and can kick off a nice algae bloom. If you don't have live plants to use up these nutrients often algae will take advantage of it and start to flourish. Water changes should help, but test your tap water also, some people have nitrates and phosphates in the tap and water and changes could make it worse and not better.

In the mean time, manual removal of the algae is your best bet if you don't want to add algae eating fish or plants. It may stop coming back once your tank is fully cycled.

Its not bad for the fish, just ugly.
 
imbalance is imbalance.. either in a planted tank or a FO (fish only)tank. fish waste , uneaten food etc will create nutrients that plants can use.. if you don't have plants then you will get algae.

turbo is correct.. water changes in a non planted tank help to fix the nutrient excess.
you ..on the other hand can control the other portion...light control.

12 hrs of light in a FO tank is a bit much.. change it to 8-10 and work from there.
if you want you can split the photo period or change it to when you are most likely to enjoy the tank.

this may help minimize algae. you may also find a 'balance ' using a few low light plants. and no fertilizers..
 
:iagree:

In a fish only tank I would keep the lights on only when you are around. The fish will be fine with just ambient light.

Adding some low light plants that suck up nutrients such as hornwort or hygrophila would also help.
 
jpappy789 said:
:iagree:

In a fish only tank I would keep the lights on only when you are around. The fish will be fine with just ambient light.

Adding some low light plants that suck up nutrients such as hornwort or hygrophila would also help.
Click to expand...

EDIT: with the plants, shoot for 8-10 hours of light.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
AquariaCentral.com
Top Bottom