HELP ASAP! - Dwarf gourami looks very bad

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ShockwaveCT

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Feb 20, 2011
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I really need help, I didn't see one of my 2 dwarf blue gouramies for a couple days and now when I fed this fish today I saw him come out but he looks pretty bad. Fins are very laid down flat, not up like they should be. He looks a little skinny and lying down towards the bottom of the tank with very slow breathing (hardly even visible). It is a 29 gallon freshwater that has been going for 7 months (cycled for 5.5) and all my levels are ok. Other fish include a medium sized angelfish, 4 German ram cichlids, 1 molly, 1 high fin platy, 1 swordtail, 1 albino pleco, and two GLO fish plus the 2 gouramies. Suppose to be 3 bamboo shrimp, but I've only seen 1 for the last 2 months. I have no idea what could be wrong with this gourami and I've posted a pic and video clip below. Last additions were the high fin platy, swordtail, and pleco about 2 weeks ago but they are very healthy. Any suggestions on what it could be or what I should do?
photo-1.jpg

[video=youtube;qEK0S8HYzHU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEK0S8HYzHU[/video]

photo-1.jpg
 

RazzleFish

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Rbishop

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I think you may be having some aggression issues with that stocking. Please post exact parameters.
 

ShockwaveCT

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Feb 20, 2011
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I think you may be having some aggression issues with that stocking. Please post exact parameters.
Not sure exactly what you mean by parameters? What levels or fish? For the last 6 months I really haven't had any aggression issues (other than the fact that for the first 3 months I would randomly find a fish dead; 3 GLOfish (very small), and 1 swordtail). I am around most of the day and even late at night (up until about 4 am), so I always see activity in the tank. The gouramies seem to have their own little corners of the tank and will chase each other around a bit if they get in each others space. The angel has chased the gouramies around a few times here and there, but never noticeably long enough to cause stress, etc. None of the other fish (even the Rams) have ever shown any agression or interacted with any of the other fish. I just put the sickly looking gourami in a small tupperware container within the tank (similar to the hanging containers at a pet store) and gave it a little food.
 

RazzleFish

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Water parameters are ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, Ph, gH and kH. Again, please answer the questions in the link I provided. It will help greatly.
 

ShockwaveCT

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Feb 20, 2011
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Sorry, I did not notice the link before. There are really no physical conditions that I see affecting the fishes appearance other than low, energy, fins are not "up" as they should be, slowed breathing and looks a little skinny possibly from not eating as much. The parameters are below. All were taken with "Jungle" brand quick dip test strips, Nitrates were checked again with an API test droplet kit. The annoying thing is that the difference in color between 40 ppm and 80 ppm and nearly non-existent. They are literally the exact same color. But between the first test and second test for nitrates (paper and drops) it seems to be about 60 ppm. I do 30% water changes about every 10-14 days.

pH-7.0
Alk-70
Hardness-120
Chlorine-0
Nitrites-0
Nitrates-60 (ish)
Ammonia-0
Temp-78
 

SubluxT7

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Umm..your nitrates look very awefully high. You might want to do a serious water change in that tank. Good luck.

On another note....when you can buy a better test kit. Those strip tests are junk :D
 

ShockwaveCT

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Feb 20, 2011
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Well, both charts I have show up to 40 as "safe" and 80 and above as "unsafe", so I am assuming that 60 can't be that detramental if it is just on the verge of "unsafe". Maybe I should be doing weekly water changes instead of 10-14 days? Also I mentioned that the Nitrates were done with both liquid and strip, but the old strips are on the way out.
 

SubluxT7

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You charts misinform you young grasshopper. Ideally you dont want your nitrate levels below 20 ppm. Stolen from RB:

Freshwater cycling
Freshwater...

“Cycling A Tank”

What we mean by this term, is the process of establishing an environment that will beneficially support fish life, with minimal stress to the fish and to you. The terms used here are relevant to the “nitrogen” cycle and how it relates to the aquarium.

The first item for discussion is Ammonia (NH3). All decaying matter, like uneaten food and from fish wastes, produces this. Any detectable amount is trouble for your fish, and levels of .25 ppm and above can damage fish permanently, based on length of exposure. This damage occurs to the gills, and causes breathing problems. It will damage the gills whether the fish live or die.

Secondly, the bacteria that break down ammonia produce Nitrite (NO2). This nitrite blocks the ability of blood to absorb oxygen. Even if the fish can breathe, they are not able to utilize the oxygen they take in, as easily. They can act as if panic-stricken and/or have little control over their movements. Even with short-term exposure at high levels, stress occurs and they may not be able to ward off other immune system attacks.

And finally, second bacteria forms that consume nitrite and forms Nitrate (NO3). While short-term exposure to low levels of Nitrate are not a concern, they can be if too high over a long term. Nitrates are removed with consistent regular water changes or by aquatic plant life.

A cycle is never really complete. It is established and an ongoing evolution. Keeping this “cycle” balanced and continuous is the goal of properly maintaining a tank for a healthy environment for your fish. Strive for Zero Ammonia, Zero Nitrite, and approximately 20 ppm Nitrate or less.

With link: http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?84598-Freshwater-cycling
 

Jannika

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More frequent water changes should bring down the nitrates, but the tank appears to be cycled at any rate. I tend to agree that the gourami is being picked on, probably when you're not around to see it. On the other hand, dwarf gouramis are generally not very hardy fish, unfortunately.
 
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