help my plants to be happier!
- Thread starter Beth
- Start date
Yea! Just got off the phone with hubby, he says order it!
He is too good to me! (I can say that since he's the only one actually bringing in a paycheck!)
Got to get my credit card out and get ordering!
He is too good to me! (I can say that since he's the only one actually bringing in a paycheck!)
Got to get my credit card out and get ordering!
Oh Beth....I just noticed you're from Kentucky....oh my dear lord, another one from Kentucky.
Keep us posted on how it's going.
Len
Keep us posted on how it's going.
Len
yea, I know, we don't wear shoes or have indoor plumbing down here. But we got good fried chicken!
Since you don't want any CO2, you want stay around 40-60watts. A 29 is fair long vs the single 55w PC bulb. 2 or 3 20w lights might be better if you stagger the design placement.
They sell those stick lights, 20 watts and simply making a thin wood box to house these in might work well.
I'd get a 5000K and 6500K 20 w light and maybe a Triton bulb.
That's be cheap, look nice.
One thing you might want to work on here is the substrate. Non CO2 tanks generally need more of it. Deep is good. I go with 4 inches generally.
I use flourite or onyx in all my tanks, CO2 or not. You can use soil, kitty litter or profile but each has it's drawbacks and pluses. I've used every one of them. Cost is the main issue with the flourite but the long term usage pays for itself IMO and many others.
I find this especially true with the non CO2 tanks I have.
New plant folks succeed well with the flourite and I find it to be the best thing out there and it's simply to use. 3 bags will run about 40-55$.
Replacing the substrate is a big job that folks generally don't like to do.
But the end result will be better for the long term if you do not want to use CO2 or Excel.
I'd remove all the dirt from your existing gravel bed, save this, decant off the clear water and add this mulm back into the new gravel later. Also, add about 1/2" layer of ground peat to the bottom substrate layer and mix. Then cap this with 3 inches or so of flourite etc. This will help your tank and plant roots get started well.
Once you do this, you'll _never_ need to anything else to the substrate though...............something to think about(or not think about
.
I don't recommend water changes either, except on pruning days/big cleaning and then only right after the cleaning etc. Just top off the tank for evaporation.
A fair amount of fish is good, but plenty of algae eaters are needed to have a good looking non CO2 tank. Shrimp(Amano) and SAE's, etc are very good.
I don't add any traces etc to the water, just once a day fish feedings.
Also have some floating plants, around 10-25% of the surface. These don't have any CO2 or light issue and can stabilize a tank well even if the submersed plants are not doing well.
Now you can do just one or all of these but if you do all of these suggestions, the long term effect should please most all folks and will only get better with time.
This require little work and you get a nice looking tank to show for it.
Another thing, when ever you set up a planted tank, add as many plants as will fit.
I was born in Lexington, KY.
Regards,
Tom Barr
They sell those stick lights, 20 watts and simply making a thin wood box to house these in might work well.
I'd get a 5000K and 6500K 20 w light and maybe a Triton bulb.
That's be cheap, look nice.
One thing you might want to work on here is the substrate. Non CO2 tanks generally need more of it. Deep is good. I go with 4 inches generally.
I use flourite or onyx in all my tanks, CO2 or not. You can use soil, kitty litter or profile but each has it's drawbacks and pluses. I've used every one of them. Cost is the main issue with the flourite but the long term usage pays for itself IMO and many others.
I find this especially true with the non CO2 tanks I have.
New plant folks succeed well with the flourite and I find it to be the best thing out there and it's simply to use. 3 bags will run about 40-55$.
Replacing the substrate is a big job that folks generally don't like to do.
But the end result will be better for the long term if you do not want to use CO2 or Excel.
I'd remove all the dirt from your existing gravel bed, save this, decant off the clear water and add this mulm back into the new gravel later. Also, add about 1/2" layer of ground peat to the bottom substrate layer and mix. Then cap this with 3 inches or so of flourite etc. This will help your tank and plant roots get started well.
Once you do this, you'll _never_ need to anything else to the substrate though...............something to think about(or not think about
. I don't recommend water changes either, except on pruning days/big cleaning and then only right after the cleaning etc. Just top off the tank for evaporation.
A fair amount of fish is good, but plenty of algae eaters are needed to have a good looking non CO2 tank. Shrimp(Amano) and SAE's, etc are very good.
I don't add any traces etc to the water, just once a day fish feedings.
Also have some floating plants, around 10-25% of the surface. These don't have any CO2 or light issue and can stabilize a tank well even if the submersed plants are not doing well.
Now you can do just one or all of these but if you do all of these suggestions, the long term effect should please most all folks and will only get better with time.
This require little work and you get a nice looking tank to show for it.
Another thing, when ever you set up a planted tank, add as many plants as will fit.
I was born in Lexington, KY.
Regards,
Tom Barr
Great tips plantbrain, I'm gonna use that peat/flourite mixture for my 10 gallon.
OFFTOPIC (sorry), hey DJLEN, are you actually a DJ?
OFFTOPIC (sorry), hey DJLEN, are you actually a DJ?
Ah cool, I'm a DJ too. I have been learning how to skratch for the past 2 and a half years...I mostly mix funk/reggae/hip-hop.
Wow! Plantbrain, you really gave some nice suggestions! I think I'll wait on changing the substrate for now...I do have about 4 inches of gravel and don't want to tackle a major project like that at this point. Once I get the lighting fixed up, I'll add some new plants and see how things go.
BTW, I lived in Lexington (well, okay...Nicholasville) for 4 years before moving here 3 years ago. I sure miss it!
BTW, I lived in Lexington (well, okay...Nicholasville) for 4 years before moving here 3 years ago. I sure miss it!
