A few observations. First, the API nitrate test is notoriously unreliable. It is very important to shake the heck out of the solutions. They instruct:
Second, it is common to have some level of nitrates in drinking water, especially from treatment systems which use chlormines. Moreover, the regulations that govern water parameters are only applicable to the public portion of the water supply system. Once you cross over from the public delivery system to the private property pipes, the regulations do not apply. It is very common for nitrifying bacteria to become well established in parts of the private pipes where flow is not a regular thing. For example a basement sink used rarely or guest bathroom not used often. So not all the nitrate coming out of ones tap is the direct responsibility of the water company. However, one can argue they are indirectly responsible. The chloramine breaks down into chlorine and ammonia. That ammonia, even at very low levels, is what will feed the bacteria in the more "stagnant" areas of ones private pipes.
As suggest above, the best way to verify your readings would be to buy a bottle of distilled water and then run your nitrate test on it. If you get a reading above 0, that would be a good clue its test error and not the actual nitrate levels you are seeing.
Some people recommend that you bang the bottle on a table as well to dislodge solids stuck to the bottom before you shake it.
Second, it is common to have some level of nitrates in drinking water, especially from treatment systems which use chlormines. Moreover, the regulations that govern water parameters are only applicable to the public portion of the water supply system. Once you cross over from the public delivery system to the private property pipes, the regulations do not apply. It is very common for nitrifying bacteria to become well established in parts of the private pipes where flow is not a regular thing. For example a basement sink used rarely or guest bathroom not used often. So not all the nitrate coming out of ones tap is the direct responsibility of the water company. However, one can argue they are indirectly responsible. The chloramine breaks down into chlorine and ammonia. That ammonia, even at very low levels, is what will feed the bacteria in the more "stagnant" areas of ones private pipes.
As suggest above, the best way to verify your readings would be to buy a bottle of distilled water and then run your nitrate test on it. If you get a reading above 0, that would be a good clue its test error and not the actual nitrate levels you are seeing.
I ordered some Seachem Flourish, wasnt sure if i needed to order the Seachem excel ?
