If this is chytrid, and it does appear to be, here is some information from the "Flippers 'N' Fins" site that discusses treating this. I'm so sorry that you're having this to deal with. I have two ADFs and have dreaded this possibility, but so far my frogs are healthy and I've had them for over a year.
Here's the info:
"IF you wish to try this treatment,
here is the technique. This successful technique was developed in a
scientific study done by Groff-1991 Read it here! (pdf file)
We simplified it so anyone can do it for their frogs,
without risk of fudging things up.
Note:
If you are doing this technique,
it is very important that all frogs in the same tank be treated,
not just the ones showing symptoms. A frog can be infected by Chytrid
and not show any symptoms til it is too late.
It is important as well that the tank and tank accessories that were
used for the tank be nuked with Bleach to kill any spores that remain in the water (see technique in the above post).
Gravel and plants should be thrown away.
The frogs cannot go back into this tank until treatment is over and the tank has been completely cleaned, as to minimize reinfection.
The spores that transmit this fungus can live in the water without a host for up to 7 weeks, so this is very important.
Things to get!
1. Benzalkonium Chloride at a 50% dilution.
You can get it at National fish Pharmacy.com or fishyfarmacy.com
You can get a 50% for $20 plus shipping.
2. 2 measuring syringes(no needles needed)
One can get them at a drug store.
You'll need a 60 ml syringe, and a 1 ml syringe.
If it says "cc" that's the same as "ml".
3. Distilled water (gallon)
4. a container to store the final mixture
5. A few gallons of a Spring water brand,
one that matches closest to your tank's ph.
(Ph around 7 or higher is recommended.
Do not use Distilled/deionized water for the baths, as it is VERY soft,
and can amplify the BC's potency to toxic levels)
6. A measuring cup that measures in liters
7. A few containers for the baths, I used a 1 gallon bucket, and some new tupperware containers which never had soap used on them.
8. A Hospital tank at 2-3 gallons per frog.
And really, just for your info,
the baths are so mild, it's a very low risk thing, IMO.
My frogs amplexed thru the whole thing.
They were not affected negatively in ANY WAY.
No thickening of skin, not freaking out...
This treatment is less extreme than Maroxy or Maracyn 2 by a long shot.
Making a 1% solution from the 50% solution:
1.You take 49 ml of distilled water,
put it in a container (I used a new clean travel shampoo bottle sold at Walgreens, it's empty, never had shampoo in it)
2. Then take 1 ml of 50% BC. Put it in the container.
Then you have 1% BC solution.
(Clean out your 1cc syringe with distilled water after this to remove any residue of the BC)
DONE!!!!!!!!
The BC procedure for Chytrid in ADFs
1. Take the spring water with a ph closest to yours,
then measure out whatever amount you find easiest by liters.
(preferably 2-4 liters) DO NOT USE TAP WATER FOR THE BATHS
NOTE Low ph or very soft water should be avoided when giving these baths, as Benzalkonium Chloride is more toxic in this case.
ONLY use a 7.0 or higher spring water for the baths
2. Heat the water to the same temperature as
the water the frogs are in.
3. Add .2ml of the 1% BC per liter of water (you would measure it out in the 1ml syringe)
NOTE:
In example: I used Crystal Geyser for mine (ph 7.6 at the time), did baths of 2 liters,
because that was the minimum height the heater would fit in the container.
I did my baths in a bucket.
So, I added .4 ml of 1%BC to the 2 liters. (.2ml per liter)
I would have added .8 ml 1%BC to 4 liters, etc.....
4. Place the the frogs in the bath for 30 minutes
5. Use another container with some fresh same temp treated tap water as a rinse off station. Place the frogs in that for a minute or 2.
This is just to rinse off more of the chemical before putting them back in a tank.
6. Then they go back into a clean HT non cycled tank, (at least a few gallons), with no substrate,
I would replace the water with every bath.
You give 3 baths (do one every other day for 6 days), then wait 8 days, then give 3 more baths (a bath every other day for 6 more days)
In example:
Days 1, 3, 5: Bath
Day 6-13: No Bath
Days 14, 16, 18: Bath
That's it!
I was nervous at first, but I've done it on 2 groups of frogs,
and have had the same experience.
Frogs thrive, no bad experiences.
"Again, we at FnF can not take any responsibility if you wish to try this,
but we have had success saving African Dwarf frogs infected by Chytrid by
using this technique. Do this procedure at your own risk.
If you want to try it, just post and we can walk you thru it."
(End of article)
If you are successful and your frogs survive this, one point I've learned in my research is that the fungus likes cooler temperatures to develop. Keeping the frogs water at 78 degrees or higher (within their comfort range) helps to prevent the development of chytrid.
I've kept my tank always at 78 or 80 degrees and hope that I never have to deal with this terrible illness. Best wishes to you, I hope you can save your frogs.
Here's the info:
"IF you wish to try this treatment,
here is the technique. This successful technique was developed in a
scientific study done by Groff-1991 Read it here! (pdf file)
We simplified it so anyone can do it for their frogs,
without risk of fudging things up.
Note:
If you are doing this technique,
it is very important that all frogs in the same tank be treated,
not just the ones showing symptoms. A frog can be infected by Chytrid
and not show any symptoms til it is too late.
It is important as well that the tank and tank accessories that were
used for the tank be nuked with Bleach to kill any spores that remain in the water (see technique in the above post).
Gravel and plants should be thrown away.
The frogs cannot go back into this tank until treatment is over and the tank has been completely cleaned, as to minimize reinfection.
The spores that transmit this fungus can live in the water without a host for up to 7 weeks, so this is very important.
Things to get!
1. Benzalkonium Chloride at a 50% dilution.
You can get it at National fish Pharmacy.com or fishyfarmacy.com
You can get a 50% for $20 plus shipping.
2. 2 measuring syringes(no needles needed)
One can get them at a drug store.
You'll need a 60 ml syringe, and a 1 ml syringe.
If it says "cc" that's the same as "ml".
3. Distilled water (gallon)
4. a container to store the final mixture
5. A few gallons of a Spring water brand,
one that matches closest to your tank's ph.
(Ph around 7 or higher is recommended.
Do not use Distilled/deionized water for the baths, as it is VERY soft,
and can amplify the BC's potency to toxic levels)
6. A measuring cup that measures in liters
7. A few containers for the baths, I used a 1 gallon bucket, and some new tupperware containers which never had soap used on them.
8. A Hospital tank at 2-3 gallons per frog.
And really, just for your info,
the baths are so mild, it's a very low risk thing, IMO.
My frogs amplexed thru the whole thing.
They were not affected negatively in ANY WAY.
No thickening of skin, not freaking out...
This treatment is less extreme than Maroxy or Maracyn 2 by a long shot.
Making a 1% solution from the 50% solution:
1.You take 49 ml of distilled water,
put it in a container (I used a new clean travel shampoo bottle sold at Walgreens, it's empty, never had shampoo in it)
2. Then take 1 ml of 50% BC. Put it in the container.
Then you have 1% BC solution.
(Clean out your 1cc syringe with distilled water after this to remove any residue of the BC)
DONE!!!!!!!!
The BC procedure for Chytrid in ADFs
1. Take the spring water with a ph closest to yours,
then measure out whatever amount you find easiest by liters.
(preferably 2-4 liters) DO NOT USE TAP WATER FOR THE BATHS
NOTE Low ph or very soft water should be avoided when giving these baths, as Benzalkonium Chloride is more toxic in this case.
ONLY use a 7.0 or higher spring water for the baths
2. Heat the water to the same temperature as
the water the frogs are in.
3. Add .2ml of the 1% BC per liter of water (you would measure it out in the 1ml syringe)
NOTE:
In example: I used Crystal Geyser for mine (ph 7.6 at the time), did baths of 2 liters,
because that was the minimum height the heater would fit in the container.
I did my baths in a bucket.
So, I added .4 ml of 1%BC to the 2 liters. (.2ml per liter)
I would have added .8 ml 1%BC to 4 liters, etc.....
4. Place the the frogs in the bath for 30 minutes
5. Use another container with some fresh same temp treated tap water as a rinse off station. Place the frogs in that for a minute or 2.
This is just to rinse off more of the chemical before putting them back in a tank.
6. Then they go back into a clean HT non cycled tank, (at least a few gallons), with no substrate,
I would replace the water with every bath.
You give 3 baths (do one every other day for 6 days), then wait 8 days, then give 3 more baths (a bath every other day for 6 more days)
In example:
Days 1, 3, 5: Bath
Day 6-13: No Bath
Days 14, 16, 18: Bath
That's it!
I was nervous at first, but I've done it on 2 groups of frogs,
and have had the same experience.
Frogs thrive, no bad experiences.
"Again, we at FnF can not take any responsibility if you wish to try this,
but we have had success saving African Dwarf frogs infected by Chytrid by
using this technique. Do this procedure at your own risk.
If you want to try it, just post and we can walk you thru it."
(End of article)
If you are successful and your frogs survive this, one point I've learned in my research is that the fungus likes cooler temperatures to develop. Keeping the frogs water at 78 degrees or higher (within their comfort range) helps to prevent the development of chytrid.
I've kept my tank always at 78 or 80 degrees and hope that I never have to deal with this terrible illness. Best wishes to you, I hope you can save your frogs.
