help please-planted tank going downhill

API Master Test kit is good for pH, NH3, NO2, NO3. API GH/KH test is also good for those. I use API Phosphate, but Seachem Phosphate I've heard is better.

Those are really the only tests that are worth anything. Iron, Copper, Calcium, etc... aren't really accurate nor needed.

A drop checker is good for checking co2, search the forum for drop checker to see what it is and how to use it, and then you can get one for cheap off ebay.
 
gmh- sorry about the confusion. i have two bulbs at 13w each. 2.6 wpg.
jmhart- thanks for the advice, i bought a fert. combo pack from a link i found on this forum. will definately be getting a master test kit. probably start over w/ different plants.
 
In my experience, if it doesn't say, then it's a low K bulb, 3000k or so, and therefore not good for growing....that could be your problem.


I'd find a bulb that tells you what k value it is.

Wal-Mart sells GE "Daylight" 6500k bulbs, 2 for $7, all different wattages, from 10w up to 26w.
 
yeah- i think it might be a 3k, the only other number on the bulb is a three. if i upgrade to 6500k, do you think 2.6wpg is good enough? i'm thinking of trying diy co2.
 
You might have read this, but I'll reiterate, it's best not to think in terms of watts per gallon when it comes to tanks below 20g, so 26w over 10g doesn't translate into the watts per gallong guideline.

However, 26 watts over a 10g is nice, low-med light. Plants would grow nicely, not very fast, but not slow either. I would recommend DIY CO2. Once you've done that and you think things are going pretty well, you can up the lighting to to two 20w or two 26w bulbs, for 40w or 52w total, respectively.
 
cool- yeah i actually just read the wpg under 20g article on a different forum. until yesterday i was not aware of this. i will definately upgrade to higher temp cfls. thank you.
 
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