Help - tank crashing

[mattj]

I've lost 3 orandas so far. The rest have definate fin/tail rot as does my chinese high fin banded shark. Pleco still looks okay. Snails look great and as active as ever. As most of the residents appeared simultaneously with symptoms I opted to treat the whole tank instead of using a hospital tank.

Current parameters

ph 6.4
hardness 150
amonia 0
nitrite 0

History

a few days after using an algeacide (algae fix) there was a mild nitrite spike the first death and all others looking sluggish w/ clamped fins. I did 4 20% water changes throughout the day. still noticed trace nitrites next day. did 4 more 20% water changes throughout the day. next day no nitrites but fish looking bad with fin/tail rot, treated tank with maracyn small amount of salt and stepped up temps to 83. 2 more deaths this morning, advanced state of rot on shark, remaining orandas seem somewhat stable. Snails and pleco still seem fine.

Any suggestions?

 

[JSchmidt]

Lots of stuff going on in the tank... I thought orandas preferred cool water. If you're bumping up the temps to the 80s, I'd be wondering if the water can hold enough oxygen for them, especially given that there's nitrite being taken up by their gills instead of oxygen.

Sounds like your tank is recycling, so water changes are the order of the day...

Good luck,
Jim

 

[mattj]

The last of the Orandas are dying, pleco and snails seem completely unfazed. I'm depressed.

 

[anonapersona]

gill damage likely

Algae treatments often include coagulants to glop the stuff together so the filter can tank it out. This can make gills stickly and difficult to function, at the same time, dying algae sucks oxygen from the water, releasing ammonia as it decays.

You have to add oxygen, bubble stones up full blast, and clean the filter like a maniac, for all the crud is thick in the filter and clogs it up.

Meanwhile, orandas require about over 10 gallons per fish, so the tank may have been over crowded, leading to the algae. Plus, the pleco is likely to suck on the goldffish at night when they sleep, opening them to bacteria and parasites where the slime coat is damaged.

Remove the remaining goldfish to a large bucket 10 gallon or 20 gallon (rope handled sort, $4 at Walmart) with airstone, and do 100% water change daily. Watch temp and treat chlorine/chloramine each time. You can save this one if the gills can recover.

High temps are not the issue, if there is aeration. Higher temps keeps them from spawning so can lessen the damage that spawning chases can cause. But you must have aeration.

Tail rot can be cured with more fresh water.

 

[lark]

Excellent post anona!

Also, fancy goldfish should only be kept with fancy goldfish. It is better as well not to mix the different breeds, because some such as Celestials and Bubble Eyes swim slowly and can't compete for food and also will be picked on. Did you notice any red streaking in the fins, especially the tail fin that looked like little veins? This is a sign of nitrite poisoning. Most problems are environmental. Keep the water pristine. A method you may want to try is called the "Chinese Tub to Tub." It is exactly like it says. Every day move the fish to completely new water. I have often had great results with this. Good luck.

 

[anonapersona]

Yes, Tub to Tub!

Many thngs can be cured with fresh water, especially if you dump and sanitize the tub afterwards. I scrubbed with Bactine and rinsed clean.

Try to locate the Puregold website for details on this, requires 2 tubs, airstones for both, 2 heaters. I saved a fish with dropsey using that method -- a lot of work, though.

Even if you do not go full Tub to Tub, massive water changes can save a fish. I've seen fins regrow after bacterial infections, growing a 16th inch per day maybe.

Water changes are your friend!