Help - water problems! (long post)

Thanks!

Tap pH after dechlorination & sitting 24+ hours = 7.4.

Bottled water pH = 7.8 (different brand from previous one, which was 7.4).

The only table salt I have is iodized, is that ok for the fish? Or should I get some aquarium salt to put in the tank?

I'll also get a fake floating plant to go in the tank (my other plants are plastic).
 
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4/21/02 Update:

I think my tank is getting close to being cycled. It's been up & running for 30 full days now & the nitrite levels are tapering off (finally).

Anyway, I just read in a book that cycling is a "fixed 36-day process" (The tropical Freshwater Aquarium Problem Solver, by Gina Sandford, p. 40). Has this been verified by other people?

Thanks for all the advice & help! My little Neon Tetras (and the red Betta) thank you.

:D
 
I don't know where the 36 day figure comes from, but I don't think it's an accepted fact. For example, temperature and pH can both affect the rate at which the biofilter grows, so I don't know how anyone could proclaim a cycle to take 36 days.

Sounds like you're just about finished with the cycle. Congrats!

Jim
 
And to answer the question, yes, iodised salt is fine.
 
36 days is probably just how long it took an individual to cycle her or his tank. Take that with a grain of salt--iodized or non-iodized, your choice.
 
lower ph

I'm new at this too and was having a big problem with ph. The ph-lower in the test kit was not doing anything (our city water is very high). I asked our LFS what could be done. He suggested KENT Freshwater True ph Minus. I used 2/3 application the first time, the other 1/3 the second time and a full dose the third time (after all the other stuff, I was afraid to do too much at once). Our ph is now 7.0. For water changes, Kent ph Precise 7.0 Neutral Controller was suggested. I'm doing a 30% water change every 2 weeks (I read change every week, every 2 weeks, 30% change, 50% change; I'm not sure if every 2 wks is ok, but the fish seem to be doing fine - 5 clown loaches, 5 platys and 2 corys in 29 gal - I hope the tank will not be too small in the near future!). I'll do the first change with the Neutral Controller this weekend and see how it works.
 
There are no ingredients listed. The True pH Minus (a liquid) says it contains no phosphates, nitrates or organic chemicals. The warning label says it does contain very acidic hydrogen sulfates. The Neutral Controller (a powder) contains phosphate buffers. I hope this info helps.
 
I'm new at this too and was having a big problem with ph.
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and
The Neutral Controller (a powder) contains phosphate buffers.
Click to expand...
What pH problems were you having?

We get cautioned fairly regularly around here about correcting pH problems that aren't really there. Seems messing with pH down products and buffers can start a never ending cycle of fluctuation/correction that is harder on your fish than a steady pH that seems a tad high bookwise.
Excessive phosphates can come back later on and haunt you in the form of algae, also.

So explain your original pH problem a bit and maybe you can find a way to avoid adding "stuff". It's something I try to avoid.
 
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