Help with a new Magnum 350

Okay, so the OUTFLOW tube is the one that lines up with the "impeller exhaust" (black tube in the canister? NOT the intake?

Getting conflicting opinions, so when I get home, my first step is going to be to switch the tubes using the quick connect valves.
 
its really very simple to set up a mag350 and all the ones i ever owned are marked which hose is in/out get a flash light and check the lid.
 
also, ensure the discharge is completely covered with water when priming..
 
I have that issue when I compacted the media too much(Poly floss) and the water flow is restrained, But most likely is priming issue. Fill the intake hose ti create suction and then start it. Another thing to look is the valves if you have them make sure they are close when you turn it on at least the return one and then open it slow to maximize the suction.
 
Good point shipmate. whatever you place around the basket or even the micron filter (as I have had good results with thin blue bond around the micron), you must insure that there is at least 1/16 to 1/8 inch clearance between the plastic housing and the circumference of the filter mass all the way around the canister so that water can migrate around the entire surface area, otherwise you defeat the purpose of the design.

I will take either cut to fit blue/white bond, or Poly batten and tear it down the middle in order to make it thinner to maintain this clearance, especially around the internal inflow diffuser.
 
Thanks for all of the help.
When I got home, I got out the flashlight and looked at the canister again. Yep, the hoses were reversed. My next problem was getting the seals on the hoses tight. I had a couple of leaks at the connections. Also, I had to cut some of the excess hose off, as it was causing the hose to kink/bend too much and that cut off the water flow.

It seems to be working well now.

One final question... has anyone tried replacing the hoses that come with the filter with a more pliable/flexible vinyl hose? The current hoses are so rigid.
 
While those hoses are seemingly stiff they are that way (thick & smooth bore) to actually prevent kinks and unlike corrugated hoses prevent clogging in those user friendly grooves.

Here is the trick for future reference. after cutting the hoses to size, heat the ends carefully and evenly on a flame stove or even lighter until very warm NOT burning hot, then your fitting with a little Vaseline will connect like they were made for each other. Then when you are ready to run your hoses that have (like you say ) been cut to length leaving enough extra draping slack for moment and adjustment, heat the hoses first by running hot tap water through them until they has soften up, then quickly shape them in there location behind the cabinet one bowed to the left and one bowed to the right along the wall like very short butterfly wings and they will cooperate like they were meant to and keep a custom shape for that setup, not kinking and smooth for no clogging. Like I said there is a difference between functional design and user friendly compromise, and you don't want those awful self clogging 1/2 inch corrugated hoses.
 
Thanks, another hose trick is every other water change when your all finished before putting the python away place the end of the hose in the tub and turn the water on with the python to full hot until the hose gets very warm about 1 minute of hot water, then turn to reverse and suck the hose dry. Not only will your python roll up easier for storage but 90% of all the diatoms and bacteria will be killed in the hose keeping it looking new rather then discolored by bacteria and also prevent cross contamination.
 
Instead of using open flame to heat up the ends you can also boil some water in the microwave and then stick the ends in the water. The water acts as a lubricant and the hoses slide right on the the connections. No danger of burning anything using this method.
 
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