Help with plants

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Josh Holloway--Be mine!!!
Sep 1, 2003
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Before we start "Dinkering" with ferts and lights, ect----Are the plants that are dying even aquatic???
 

carolinyens

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Apr 20, 2009
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The ony plant that comes to mind that just gets its nutrients from the column is hornwort Im sure there are others. If it has roots then it feeds through those roots but also anchors. Typically the roots used as anchors are more of an after effect. If your substrate is rich the plant wont have to push out roots further to find more nutrients. Roots still grow but less energy is used for root production and more into leaf, plantlet, rhizome or whatever production. Think in terms of emersed plants.
 

wantokeeptrout

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Jan 7, 2012
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i got some fluval substrate that is advertized as plant substrate, about an inch deep and it's the black coloured small granules, couldn't find the recommended fertilizer so i'll stick with hardier plants until i can find it. My new dat is loving the plants so hoping they stay alive
 

Kakashi

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Mar 24, 2012
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I use the fluval substrate works very well for me. Sounds like a nutrient imbalance like the others have stated. I used to use liquid ferts, I switched to dry after reading the sticky about planted aquariums here. I use the EI method and my plants haven't grown better. You can buy a pound of each dry fert you need for about 12 bucks a piece and this will last you over a year, cheaper than liquid. I would check lighting and Co2 to start off with for a planted tank. If you have the proper lighting for the plants you want to grow, and you get your co2 to around 30ppm, you should be fine growing most hardy to moderate plants. I started dry dosing ferts once I got into the less hardy plants, everything is growing great. Its hard for people to diagnose a problem without the proper information. If you post your tank perimeters (ph/nitrite/amon/nitrate levels) the exact wattage of plant light you have and how long they are on, the tank size, and the regiment you follow for fertlization, and your water change schedule, than the experts can give you a more specific diagnosis.
 

xUnRaTeDxxRkOx

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$12 for 1lb of each fert is a really high price, I only pay $3-$5 for 1lb of each of the ferts. If you're paying $12 for each fert you're getting ripped off, for $12 I can get 3-4 of each different fert.

I use these folks to get my dry fertilizers from

http://www.aquariumfertilizer.com/index.asp?Option1=cats&Edit=2&EditU=1&Regit=2



As for the exact wattage of the lights is not needed, watts per gallon rule is gone now, we now go by type of lighting, and the PAR vs distance of the lighting vs height of the tank.

PARvsDistVariousBulbs2.jpg

LightIntensityTable.jpg

PARvsDistVariousBulbs2.jpg LightIntensityTable.jpg
 

wantokeeptrout

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how do i read this chart? My setup is a 29 my setup is i assume t5N Oand the light is functionally on top of the tank so that means i have sustainable light for medium light plants?
 

Kakashi

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Yes I need to find a new place for some dry ferts. I spend the max 12 bucks on my trace elements I think.....which one was the more expensive one? I thought it was the trace elements, I spend roughtly 5 to 8 bucks on the other ferts.

What kind of lighting do you have t5NO isn't used really anymore for aquariums is it? Most aquarium t5 setups are HO now I believe.
 
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xUnRaTeDxxRkOx

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By the charts it means you have medium lighting, which means you'll be able to grow just about any aquatic plant. But with medium lighting you would still need a good substrate, along with a good dosing regime, and Co2 or excel as a carbon supplement.



If it was my tank, I would go the mineralized soil route, but without the knowledge of dry fertilizer compounds, and what each dry fert does I wouldn't recommend it. So in your case, you could go with 2" of SeaChem Flourite planted substrate, and cap it with normal pea gravel. This substrate, along with the Flourish line of fertilizers, and Co2 your tank should flourish.
 
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