Help with silver arowana
- Thread starter pyroman522
- Start date
Feeders contain little to no nutritional value and are mostly fatty. Plus they increase the introduction of disease into your tank unless quarantined for a month which to me isn't worth the space nor time. Feeders also might be linked to causing drop eye in arrowanas, though silvers will most likely get it anyway; they are the most susceptible. Still that doesn't mean you should worsen the drop eye with feeders.
A big reason not to feed live food, especially while young is because it might get use to it and might not accept any other food when it matures. As stated above, feeders aren't very nutritional so get it on pellets. Create good habbits while young when its most lenient. Make carnivore pellets its main diet so when it matures it will readily accept it. They will help the arowana grow faster (not like it needs any help
) and healthier. Plus certain pellets help coloration. I use Hikari Cichlid Gold for my carnivorous fish. You'll see a big difference in color after 1 month of feeding. Plus the fish love it.
Hope that helps, Good Luck!
A big reason not to feed live food, especially while young is because it might get use to it and might not accept any other food when it matures. As stated above, feeders aren't very nutritional so get it on pellets. Create good habbits while young when its most lenient. Make carnivore pellets its main diet so when it matures it will readily accept it. They will help the arowana grow faster (not like it needs any help
) and healthier. Plus certain pellets help coloration. I use Hikari Cichlid Gold for my carnivorous fish. You'll see a big difference in color after 1 month of feeding. Plus the fish love it. I hope you know for sure that you can obtain the minimum size tank to house a fully grown silver aro for life. From the sounds of that quote, it seems like you know you're going to upgrade, but you are uncertain how big you're going to be upgrading to. Absolute minimum for a fully grown silver is a 8ft x 2ft x 2ft 240 gallon tank. It not the volume of the water that matters, its the dimensions. It needs a tank 8 feet in length to swim comfortably and at least a 2 foot depth to be able to turn. Jars however need around a 2.5 foot depth. So unless you know for sure that you can get a tank this size sometime this year I suggest selling the aro. As to why this is the minimum, despite most people suggesting a 180, look on MFK. Lots of input from owners of aros 2 feet and up.i know very well it will outgrow the tank. And that gives me a excuse to go bigger
Hope that helps, Good Luck!
Last edited:
id like to do a very very large tank.... i just need to get the money. I am thinking that this tank will work for a year as long as i am up to par with the tank.
If you can't afford the tank now, why do you think you can afford it in a year? It's a classic mistake that many people make.
Take the Aro back or sell it for the sake of the fish.
Take the Aro back or sell it for the sake of the fish.
i will be able to afford it. I am getting a full time job this week with double my pay. And possibly a second full time job. You do not know me well enough to know that if i want it, i will earn it
i will make sure to treat the aro well do not worry. I am just deciding on what i want.
i will make sure to treat the aro well do not worry. I am just deciding on what i want.
i fed mine crickets, floating pellets, waxworms, earthworms.... just make sure he doesnt eat too many worms since they are high in fat. i used gutloaded crickets to get him on pellets. i kept mine in a 450 gallon tank and he grew 2 inches a month. they are prolific eaters and need lots of space. they also seem to like soft acidic water which isnt what you have. i know they can adapt but maybe he was introduced too quickly. they are sensitive and are known to randomly stop eating. in a 55 he will only get around 18 inches and will be stunted until put in a larger tank.
Ph/Hardness is high for an aro as said by Jaysen.
tank running for a week before adding the fish ? with what was it cycled ? (there was mention of you having it for one month - is that that you had the aro for a month before adding to the 55 ? what was he kept in until now if so - they are really sensitive to change and he may be reacting to the move).
what kind of test kit are you using and what is your ammonia reading ?
tank running for a week before adding the fish ? with what was it cycled ? (there was mention of you having it for one month - is that that you had the aro for a month before adding to the 55 ? what was he kept in until now if so - they are really sensitive to change and he may be reacting to the move).
what kind of test kit are you using and what is your ammonia reading ?
did you do any research on aros before you got one? it may stay stunted if all you feed it is brine shrimp (like feeding your child twinkies and pop-tarts) but on a proper diet of crickets, carnivore pellets, and real shrimp they will grow 2 inches per MONTH. there's no way you can keep it in a 55g for any length of time.
im surprised he eats them at all. they are very visual and like going for food that is on top of them. top dwelling fish as well as insects which float are a good choice. i didnt know they could catch the brine shrimp. also try not to feed him anything freeze dried or he may develop a prolapsed anus. it is common with aros for that to happen.
BigFishKeeper
Host of Aquatic Wetline Podcast
Due a 50% water change tonight. Then add some salt and turn the temp up. This helped me with my aro(had 2 yrs ago), and my pacu with fin rot.
BFK
P.S By Salt I mean Kosher Salt!!
BFK
P.S By Salt I mean Kosher Salt!!
