How am I doing so far??? (some flashing/GH problems)

I agree. I don't think they tank was cycled correctly. What's done is done. Let's try to fix the result.

As others have said, I would do water changes every day/other day. Keep testing the ph, kh, and gh.

My tap water is similar to yours.
ph 7.6
gh 5
kh 4

For my tang tank, I add 1 teaspoon epsom salt, baking soda, and marine salt for each 5 gallons of tap water I add.

Do not clean your filter for awhile. Leave it be so it can grow some bacteria. Also, put something in the tank and/or filter to grow bacteria. Lava rock or something similar is great for growing bacteria (has alot of small holes in it). Or put some ceramic discs in your filter to grow bacteria. Your foam in your ac is growing bacteria also, so when you finally clean it, use a bowl with aquarium water to rinse it.

Other than that, sounds like it's a waiting game for your tank to build up bacteria and finish the cycling process. Brichari are pretty tough fish, so make gradual changes to ph, gh, and kh and they might make it.

One more thing.....ammonia is extremely toxic with higher ph levels. I would slowly reduce the ph to mid-high 7's until the ammonia is under control. Then slowly raise it to around 8 once all signs of ammonia are gone.

Hope that helps.
 
Quick question, did you begin worrying about the water quality BECAUSE of the flashing? I don't think anyone noted this, but flashing with mbuna can sometimes have less to do with water quality and more to do with territoriality and aggression....I'm not sure if they're the same as most mbuna but you may be experiencing problems leaning in that direction...I wouldn't keep most mbuna in anything less than a 55 gal...Assuming your cycle did go well, they should adapt to a slightly less than perfect water condition...
 
Very good point. Didn't even think about that. My auratus does that when she's in her "aggressive" moods......every other fish gets out of her way!
 
I did take notice to my water quality after the flashing started. It is occuring less and less now though. I think i'll do the water changes until ammonia is at 0. I was told just to back off the additions of salts/baking soda. The epsom for some reason doesn't keep my GH up the whole time for some reason.. It gets up to like 15 and then backs down all the way to 1. Which is odd.


Anybody have any ideas about what i explained about the white film on my heater?
 
The white film sounds like bacteria bloom. It's common with new tanks. This should go way when the tank is fully cycled (ammonia is gone).
 
wobble said:
The white film sounds like bacteria bloom. It's common with new tanks. This should go way when the tank is fully cycled (ammonia is gone).
Click to expand...
Actually, if it's something you have to wipe hard or scratch off, my thoughts were it was all the Epsom Salts and baking soda encrusting the equipment. You know how salt spray does on a SW tank.
 
that's what i thought at first, but then there were like little pods on the suction cups that i think could be bacteria. So you say they will go away with time as the ammonia decreases?

Should i continue with the epsom/baking soda additions? or slowly decrease it until i have none and just keep the crushed coral in the filter?

Thanks for all the help! I will let everyone know how i make out :dance:
 
After your next water change, add just water and chlorine remover. Then test ph, kh, and gh. Post results. See where you're at before you add anything else.
 
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