how do you treat ich in a planted tank with shrimps?

My rummynosed tertras are not liking the salt solution at all. One died already and some of the RCS are doing laps around the tank. Has anyone tried the Seachem method? One part Metronidazole, one part Focus then you mix it in with live or frozen food (since flakes wont absorb the solution) and then you feed it to the fish IF theyre still eating. I dont have anyone to blame but myself but I'll do something about it

How bad is the Ich? It could be the Ich, not the salt. Ich kills MUCH faster than salt will kill... if the salt is dosed properly.

Give us details on what you have done so far.

Food is NOT going to kill Ich. You have to treat the water column. Ich is an external parasite and and two stages of the life cycle are in the water column and/or on surfaces in the tank and the third stage is where the Ich are attached to the fish.

Since I've seen other's mistakenly think they had Ich, tell us exactly what you are seeing or post pictures.
 
You can also feed garlic. Although garlic itself will not completely cure it, it will definately help. It will increase their slime coat, improve their immune system, some say it will actually irritate them enough that the ich will abandon the host. Kent makes a liquid, as well as a few other companies. You can also make your own. You should be able to find recipes easy enough. Feed/dose heavy, it wont hurt the fish, inverts, or plants. Really its not a bad idea to feed it on a regular basis as a preventative.
Yeah thats what Im doing ATM. Im mixing Garlic Guard, metronizadole?, and brine shrimp. Lets see how it will go...thanks :)
 
How bad is the Ich? It could be the Ich, not the salt. Ich kills MUCH faster than salt will kill... if the salt is dosed properly.

Give us details on what you have done so far.

Food is NOT going to kill Ich. You have to treat the water column. Ich is an external parasite and and two stages of the life cycle are in the water column and/or on surfaces in the tank and the third stage is where the Ich are attached to the fish.

Since I've seen other's mistakenly think they had Ich, tell us exactly what you are seeing or post pictures.
Youre probably right about ich killed the rummynosed and the not the salt but overall after the salt treatment, the neons & the ottos took it well but the RCS's & rummynosed tetras were clearly stressed after the salt was added.

Im pretty sure its Ich coz I see white spots on the body, tail, and the fins. The interesting thing is that only the rummynosed seemed to be carrying it since theyre more sensitive and are the newest members to tank. My neons are thriving coz Ive been feeding them high quality food along with vitamins, garlic and etc. I can say this for sure though, the salt really bothered the shrimps and some of them have been in hiding eversince. I used 3 tablesppons of ''aquarium salt'' for every 5 gallons. First I dissolved it in a bottle of water and I slowly added it during the whole day. Oh and I did raise the temp. to 82 (originally at 79).

Cheers for your help, I probaly did something incorrect.

Sepehr
 
How did you add the salt?
How much did you add??

You didnt add 3 tsp/ gal at once did you?
No, I actually used 3 tsp of salt per 5 gallon and I added it little bt little during the whole day.
 
Im going through the same problem right now. I quarantened a female platy for 2 weeks. She seemed as healthy as a horse.. Introduced her to my other 2 and as soon as the male took an interest in her. About a week later, she had a white spot. Now Im worried about how my corys and 1 bristlenose are going to do with the salt treatment.. What fish cant handle it.. Wish I knew..

I have heard so many different amounts of salt to use. I dont know how much to put in there.. Right now Im using medication. But I figure the salt would last longer.. Do you have to put more salt in every day.. Or just when you do a water change.

Sorry original poster. Didnt mean to steal your thread. Just thought this question might help us both out..
no problem at all...
 
This is why I ask folks to use full names for teaspoon or tablespoon. And always remember that a level spoon is the correct measurement, not a heaping spoon. Fill the spoon, then use a flat object to scrape off any amount above the rim of the spoon to get a level spoonful.

First, Sepehr said "I used 3 tablesppons of ''aquarium salt'' for every 5 gallons." and then, in a follow-up post, said "No, I actually used 3 tsp of salt per 5 gallon" and "tsp" is the abbreviation for teaspoon, not tablespoon (which would be Tbsp.) but it's too easy to make a typo with those abbreviations and that can cause major problems.

So... did you use 3 tablespoons or 3 teaspoons per 5G?

If it was 3 tablespoons, which I'm going to presume is correct since the errors usually happen with abbreviations, and if they were level tablespoons, that would add up to 9 teaspoons per 5G or nearly 2 teaspoons per gallon or nearly 0.2%. If they were heaping tablespoons, that would mean 15 teaspoons per 5G or 3 teaspoons per gallon or 0.3%.

Adding either of those levels that quickly could stress things out. While most fish, critters and plants can tolerate 0.2% to 0.3% (2 teaspoons per gallon to 3 teaspoons per gallon), sensitive fish/critters and all plants need to be slowly acclimated to those levels. For folks with sensitive fish/critters or plants, they need to start off with only 0.1% (1 teaspoon per gallon) and then that amount should be slowly added to the tank with about 1/4 added every hour over a four hour period and then let the tank get acclimated to that level. Then repeat the next day to bring the tank up to 0.2% and then if all are doing well, repeat on the 3rd day to bring the tank up to 0.3%. Raising the heat by 1F to no more than 2F per day during this period will also bring the temp up into the lower-mid 80'sF and between the higher temp and the either 0.2% or 0.3% salt level, that will kill Ich and things should be cleared up in around a week to 10 days... but always give things several days after no longer seeing any of the Ich cysts on the fish.
 
While a UV filter will likely kill any Ich (and/or other pathogens that get sucked into the filter intake), the major problem with using a UV filter is that the intake will not catch 90% of the free-swimming Ich. Have you ever watched your filter intake on your tank and watched all the stuff that floats nearby... like an inch or so away and just floats on past without getting sucked in? IMO, folks would need a 1/2 dozen or more suitably sized UV filters to have enough filter intakes around the tank to do a fair job on sucking up all of the free swimming Ich when they are in that part of their life cycle.

Here's a snip from http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/ich.shtml

Ich has three life-stages. We can begin with the feeding stage that has settled under your fishes' outer skin: the trophont (or trophozoite). The trophont is the only feeding stage (its name contains the same Greek troph="feeding" element familiar in "heterotroph" or "trophic level"), yet it has no mouth. Instead it secretes histolytes to break down neighboring host cells, in order to absorb their contents. The histolytes cause the host fishes' epithelium to thicken, so that the host's own immune reaction provides a safe haven for this "adult" or "mature" stage, where it's protected from medication. Constantly rotating inside its pustule, the trophont swells to 50 times its original size, large enough to appear to the naked eye, grayish-white, round to oval, as big as a grain of salt. In a few days or much longer, depending on temperature, it is ripe. It sheds its cilia, grows a thickened gelatinous outer shell, lets itself be shed into the fishes' mucus, and drops away as a "tomont." The trophont does not need to become completely mature. A lab study by T.A. Nicholl and M.S. Ewing at Oklahoma State found that most of the embedded trophonts left the host within four hours of death: it's worth noting that the corpse of an Ich-infested host is a major source of infection.

The released tomonts swim for 2 to 6 hours before settling on a substrate. (Nicholl and Ewing found that a light substrate was preferred to a dark one.) Some biologists count this brief interval as a fourth life stage (in which it is susceptible to medication, by the way, according to Dr. Peter Burgess, the resident "fish doctor" at Practical Fishkeeping magazine). Quickly it attaches to a substrate and encysts, as the reproducing stage. This life-stage doesn't eat. Its metabolic clock is now ticking; it is spending its stored energy to divide and divide again within the short-lived cyst. The tomont's time-span remains temperature-dependent: at common aquarium temperatures it's a matter of hours to days. (In a chilly koi pond in early spring, the cyst may persist longer.) Ultimately hundreds of mobile tomites burst from the cyst, even as many as 2000. They quick sprout cilia and start actively swimming about in search of a host. The fully developed "swarmers" are now called theronts (Greek ther- denotes a critter). The tomites'/theronts' metabolism is also temperature-dependent, but they must find a host within a very few days or perish: at 68oF none survived after 55 hours, according to Schaperclaus.
The gelatinous thin-walled cyst can't survive being completely dried out, an incentive to let your nets dry out completely, if there is Ich anywhere among your tanks. Only this third life-stage, the free-swimming tomite/theront, is susceptible to medications. Only the trophont can persist "dormant" in the aquarium, though it's never free-living but always attached inconspicuously to a host, perhaps on a gill surface.
Ich is all too easily identified with the naked eye at the final full development of the trophont. (In fact Ichthyophthirius multifiliis is the largest known single-celled parasite on fishes.) As a result, many aquarists don't want to believe Ich is attacking their fish till they actually see the white spots. This is an error. Often a spot or two pass unnoticed, since newly-settled trophonts are too small to see anyway, and especially since early infestations are likely to attach to the gills, where they stay invisible as they grow. If you wait until later stages, badly infested small fishes may be too weakened to save.

The other common error, once a medication regime is begun, is that it's often ended as soon as no more mature "white spot" trophonts are visible in obvious places on the fish. It's absolutely essential to keep on medicating till the last encysted theront has released its tomites, and the last tomite has been eliminated by the medication. Remember, it only takes a single tomite successfully settled into the fishes' epithelium to inaugurate a whole new cycle. As the University of Florida puts it, once more, "Uncontrollable or recurrent infestation with ciliate protozoans are indicative of husbandry problems." CONTINUE READING THE ENTIRE ARTICLE FOR MORE INFORMATION

As you can see, a single Ich can reproduce into hundreds, maybe thousands of more Ich parasites so if the UV filter isn't sucking up all of them and one of them finds a host fish again, the vicious cycle starts all over again.... but in the free-swimming part of their life cycle, the salt (or other chemical treatment) will be far more successful in killing them en masse.

Maybe, just maybe, running a UV filter 24/7/365 might help with reducing the numbers of free swimming pathogens, it also will kill the same percentage of the good micro-ecology of the tank that forms a balanced ecosystem in a tank. As you can see, I'm not a believer in using UV filters since they indiscrimately kill the good with the bad.

Raising the salt level to the 0.1%, then 0.2% and then 0.3% (for sensitive fish) will kill the free swimming Ich while saving most of the rest of the tank's ecosystem.
 
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