I usually make sure the canister and the input tube are full of water before even trying to start the thing. It is the weak point. I found the 404 better, but that might have been tank height as well....
How Do Youprime This Dam Fluval
- Thread starter DodgeIntrepidV6
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TOTALLY agree with keffler.... (keeping the outputs under water, i think there is a scientific principle about air under water trying to escape.)
i never understood these priming problem posts. i keep my outputs about 2-3" below water and i NEVER touch the primer. i also have emps on the tanks for aeration and agitation and hate listening to the "running hose" sound the 404's make when they are above water. i only ever primed my fluval 404's once each that i remember pretty much and that was to get water into the hoses.
when i break em down and clean them, either replacing them full or empty, i JUST flip the lever and the air bubbles out. i might pump it once or twice after that to flush the last little bit of air, but it is unneccesary really, the filter will purge itself as it runs.
mwood it is actually a ceramic shaft i think and that is why it is brittle. i also think the little tool is there to remove it, but i haven't needed it yet. i have only opened the impeller housing once in about 6-8 months, and that was more for inspection and due to the fact that the carbon bags had been in that one for too long (since i bought the filter
) and the bags had basically disintegrated, allowing carbon to get everywhere. the impeller should be mostly self cleaning from what i have seen with mine.
i never understood these priming problem posts. i keep my outputs about 2-3" below water and i NEVER touch the primer. i also have emps on the tanks for aeration and agitation and hate listening to the "running hose" sound the 404's make when they are above water. i only ever primed my fluval 404's once each that i remember pretty much and that was to get water into the hoses.
when i break em down and clean them, either replacing them full or empty, i JUST flip the lever and the air bubbles out. i might pump it once or twice after that to flush the last little bit of air, but it is unneccesary really, the filter will purge itself as it runs.
mwood it is actually a ceramic shaft i think and that is why it is brittle. i also think the little tool is there to remove it, but i haven't needed it yet. i have only opened the impeller housing once in about 6-8 months, and that was more for inspection and due to the fact that the carbon bags had been in that one for too long (since i bought the filter
) and the bags had basically disintegrated, allowing carbon to get everywhere. the impeller should be mostly self cleaning from what i have seen with mine.
Well, even before I broke it I found the filter to be a pain at starting, its only gotten worse since. In fact I broke it trying to figure out why the impellor refused to spin.
I don't think I'll ever buy another canister just for all the aggrevation this one has given me. My Hang On the Backs work fine.
--Mia
I don't think I'll ever buy another canister just for all the aggrevation this one has given me. My Hang On the Backs work fine.
--Mia
mwood322
Buy a Filstar xP. Auto priming. You hook up the hoses with this very simple connector and push down the lever. AUTO filling. I have an xp2 never had a problem. Just my 2cents.
Buy a Filstar xP. Auto priming. You hook up the hoses with this very simple connector and push down the lever. AUTO filling. I have an xp2 never had a problem. Just my 2cents.
Yeah that's great, but i dont think he's going to buy a new filter.
Anyways, dont forget to try putting an python on the outtake hose and use it to suck everything out. That'll quickly evacuate the air and get the filter full of water.
b4 you start to prime/start fill the cannister with water preferably from the tank, then put the top on and prime normally, less water 2 prime with the self-primer.
After cleaning my canisters and putting them back together, I remove the intake stem from the tank. I then connect a spare piece of hose to a powerhead output in the tank. Then I use that hose to fill the intake tube going back to the canister. When it's full I put the stem back on and put it back in the water. Then I power up the canister and it starts right away.
I find this easier than trying to fiddle with the priming pump in the cramped space under my tank.
I find this easier than trying to fiddle with the priming pump in the cramped space under my tank.
Who would of ever thought priming would be so hard
Anyways, theres a 10 inch plus snow storm here(figures always near weekend) and I can't go to home depot. But when I do I'm gettign the tubing and spray bar. So I'll start from scratch again... I'll see if I give it more effort it fills. Thanks for all your input I really appreciate it.
Anyways, theres a 10 inch plus snow storm here(figures always near weekend) and I can't go to home depot. But when I do I'm gettign the tubing and spray bar. So I'll start from scratch again... I'll see if I give it more effort it fills. Thanks for all your input I really appreciate it.
IMPORTANT!
Always FILL the canister To-The-Top before turning it on and priming it! This is where most of the >I Can't Get It To Prime< problem happens.
I've had zero problems starting up Fluval and Filstars...
The directions do need to be written better on the products.
Hope this will help lots.............
Always FILL the canister To-The-Top before turning it on and priming it! This is where most of the >I Can't Get It To Prime< problem happens.
I've had zero problems starting up Fluval and Filstars...
The directions do need to be written better on the products.
Hope this will help lots.............
T
TnCgal
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