How long is a mini-cycle?

LeahK

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Jul 5, 2007
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It's been one thing after another with my aquarium, and I was really hoping that I wouldn't have to post back here yet again, but here I am . . . :wall: I have 2 honey gourami and 3 small clown loaches in a 20g, and if everyone is still alive in January:confused:, they will all go in a 55g. The clown loaches gave my tank ich. It began with 1 spot, and I treated for 6 days at half doses of Rid Ich+. There was a small rise in ammonia after treatment, to about 1 ppm, which I managed with water changes. A week later the ich returned. I treated at the full dose for 10 days (that involved daily 25% water changes before dosing). During treatment the power in my apartment went out for 6 or 7 hours. I think a combination of the meds and the power loss sent my tank into a mini cycle. The ich treatment stopped 4 days ago, and ever since I've had ammonia up to 2 ppm, which I have managed with both water changes and a product called Ammo Lock, which is supposed to make the ammonia non-toxic but still available to the good bacteria (and the fish show no signs of stress from ammonia). Today I have a bacterial bloom, which I am trying to tell myself is a good sign, because it means the bacteria colonies are reproducing. Is this in fact a good sign? I have until Monday the 17th for this tank to balance itself out, because after that I leave for almost a month and a house-sitter will be caring for the fish. Is there anything else I should be doing besides daily water changes of 20%, using Ammo Lock, and feeding lightly? Any estimates on how long this will take? (PS, my nitrites are 0, nitrates around 10, and pH around 6.4 to 6.8.)
Also, I have a 10g, with 6 rasboras in it, running with 2 filters on it, a 10-20 filter and a 70 filter that is running now in preparation for going on the the 55g tank. The 70 by now is probably at least partially colonized with bacteria. So I thought, since the 10g is plenty good with the filtration, I might switch the 10g's 10-20 filter media with the ailing filter media in the 20g. The 20g runs a 20-40 filter, but the media pads are the same size. I thought this might give the 20g a new healthy bacteria colony, and the ailing media pad would have a chance to revive in the 10g where the 70 filter can take over. However, I live in fear of the ich returning, or stlll being present, so I worry that switching the pads could cause cross-contamination. Does anyone have any opinions on switching the pads? Would that even be helpful? Thanks for reading yet another of my posts, which always get too long.
 
yes.. moving the media over could cross contaminate the tank.

why not just squeeze some of the filter 'gunk' from the good tank to the 20. directly into the filter.

btw..larger water changes would be in order to maintain a safe level of ammonia.

remember if you are showing 1 ppm ammonia a 50% wc should reduce the ammonia by no more than 50%.(theory)
FYI mini cycles usually last about 1 week.
but some meds may kill bacterial colonies and you may have to re-cycle the tank.
hopefully enough bacteria survived to help populate the tank and keep the cycling to a shirter time period.
 
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New turn of events. My husband found a really good deal on a 55 tank and stand on craigslist, and we're buying it today. The guy will deliver it in a few hours. Now, I have heard that a larger tank is actually easier to maintain than a smaller one, more water being more forgiving of fluctuations in quality. What are anyone's opinions of setting up the 55 before I leave for vacation on the 17th? As I posted earlier, the 20g is going through a mini cycle, but I have 2 filters in working order on my 10g. So, the situation would be this: a 55g tank running 1 good 10-20 Whisper HOB, 1 good Aquaclear 70 HOB, and 1 mini-cycling 20-40 Whisper HOB; there'd be 2 honey gourami and 3 clown loaches from the 20g, and 6 galaxy rasboras from the 10g; there'd also be a ton of java fern. Considering the fish load is low, and the 10g tank would contribute 2 good filters, would the upgrade help or harm my mini-cycling situation in the 20g? If the upgrade will only import the mini-cycle problem from the 20g, then I won't do it, but if the 55g would be a more stable system for my house-sitter to deal with, then maybe the upgrade would be a good choice. _If_ I were to do it today, I'd have 6 days to monitor the tank before the house-sitter takes over. There is still the dreaded thought that ich is still present in the 20g, but I can only hope that the meds did their job.
 
Sorry to keep posting back with new questions. Would the 55g tank run ok if I only have the 6 little rasboras in it? I mean, would that be enough of a fish load to sustain the bacteria? Because if it would, then I could set up the 55 with only rasboras today, and for the next few days I could continue to monitor the fish in the 20g for signs of the return of ich. If they remain ich-free (fingers crossed, knock on wood--yes, you, whoever's reading this, please knock on wood!) then I could move them over a few days later. My big fear is that I'd have an ich-ridden tank and a house-sitter having to do big, daily water changes--it'd be bad enough if this happens in the 20g, but if all the fish are in the 55--I don't even want to think about it (knock on wood again!)
 
i would wait to set up the 55g until you get back. I would also put the filter media (or squeezings) into the ailing tank and just let the filter on the smaller tank "refill" with media while you are away and then set up the new tank when you can monitor it.
 
That's good advice. I can't seem to get on top of the ammonia levels, so I think I may switch the filter media from the good 10g filter to the bad 20g filter, and then leave it alone until January.
 
I did switch the pads. I'll see if that helps. One thing I'm not understanding about the ammonia: Over the course of today, I have changed over 100% of the water. I have done at least three 25% changes, and one 50%, all spaced out 2 hours apart. The ammonia level has stayed the same, 2 ppm, all day long. How could that be possible?
 
What kind of tests are you using? (Strips or drops?) Also, have you tested the tap water for ammonia?
 
Hi. I tested the tap water--it has 0 ammonia. I am using a Mardel ammonia monitor that stays in the tank and Tetra test strips that you dip in the tank for 5 secs and then read. The Mardel monitor only seems to be getting darker (it's already in the 2 range), even though, like I said, I know I've changed at least 100% of the water over the course of the day today. I barely fed them this morning--where could all the ammonia be coming from to cause the level to keep rising?
 
I just bought an API salicylate based liquid test, based on what I've read online about possible improper test readings when using Ammo Lock and other products. And the API test is off the charts--the water turned darker green than the darkest color on the test card. I'm a little at the end of my rope here. I guess I'll do another big water change and test again. I just don't understand why there's not an immediate drop in ammonia levels after I do a water change. It makes no sense.
 
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