how to do water changes correctly

See? Confusing...


  • Did you do moderate (10%-15%) water changes rather than large (20%-50%) water changes? Large water changes will stress the bacteria and fish, causing inadequate filtration, as well as removing the ammonia and nitrite the bacteria are trying to metabolize.
 
Not sure where you found that info, most here will disagree on a couple of issues. Regular large water changes will keep your tank water from deviating too far from your tank parameters, this will keep water changes from being stressfull. Just remember to use a declorinator and keep temperature reasonably close. As long as the nitrite and ammonia are present in the water column the bacteria will grow. Bacteria will not grow any faster at 3 ppm of ammonia then they will at .25 and the fish will not survive 3ppm of ammonia. Even low levels of ammonia and nitrite will have long term effects on the health of your fish. What you are looking for is used filter media that would contain healthy colonies of nitrifying bacteria. One source on fishless cycling I came across suggested the purchase of a potted (aquarium) plant, the rationale was that the planting media in the pot would contain nitrifying bacteria and serve as an innoculant. YMMV. (But its a good excuse to get a plant.)
 
this forum rocks. ;)

by "filter media", we mean the stuff inside the filter, like the fabric in your replaceable filter cartridge, or the rocks and stuff from inside a canister filter. using material like this from a tank that's been cycled and established can help speed up the cycling of YOUR tank by introducing already healthy, growing good bacteria that you are trying to grow.

there's a very good post about cycling- both fishy and fishless- at the top of this newbie forum. i recommend reading it.
 
shanna123 said:
See? Confusing...


  • Did you do moderate (10%-15%) water changes rather than large (20%-50%) water changes? Large water changes will stress the bacteria and fish, causing inadequate filtration, as well as removing the ammonia and nitrite the bacteria are trying to metabolize.
Click to expand...
Water changes will not affect the bacteria, as very little to no bacteria live in the water column. Bacteria live in the filter on the floss and biofilter pad. It is true that while fishy cycling nitrifying bacteria does not populate as fast as you are keeping ammonia levels down to keep your fish healthy. Thats why I said fishy cycling is difficult when done correctly. Your main goal is to keep the fish healthy and happy. As far as large water changes stressing the fish....ammonia and nitrite will stress the fish way more, and if high enough even kill them!!!
 
I use an APC SurgeArrest 8-outlet surge protector. It has 2 outlets that are "Always On" and the other 6 outlets turn off at the push of the button on the front.
Both my daytime light and my moonlight are plugged into timers in the "always on" outlets, both of my filters and my heater are plugged into the others.

One push of a button and I'm ready to do a water change...
10009992.jpg
 
ChrisK said:
Water changes will not affect the bacteria, as very little to no bacteria live in the water column. Bacteria live in the filter on the floss and biofilter pad. It is true that while fishy cycling nitrifying bacteria does not populate as fast as you are keeping ammonia levels down to keep your fish healthy. Thats why I said fishy cycling is difficult when done correctly. Your main goal is to keep the fish healthy and happy. As far as large water changes stressing the fish....ammonia and nitrite will stress the fish way more, and if high enough even kill them!!!
Click to expand...

As Canuck pointed out, the cycle proceeds at the same rate. The bactera reproduce at the same rate in 0.5ppm ammonia as they do in 5ppm. As long as there's an excess, they're reproducing full pelt. The reason for adding 5ppm when doing a fishless cycle is because you're working to a point where the bacteria will use that much up in the 24 hours before the next addition. A fishy cycle is completely different because the ammonia is added constantly. It's a bit like the difference between getting a massive plate of biscuits* out at the beginning of a party and having a plate with a few on which you constantly replenish. Just as many biscuits can be eaten both ways, but a water test - i.e. counting the uneaten biscuits on the plate - would give you a bigger number at the beginning of the first process.

You're working towards a point where the biscuits are eaten as fast as you put them out; how many are on the plate at a given time isn't all that relevant. Bacteria aren't like people - they won't hold back from taking the last one!

*cookies if your culinary tradition dictates.
 
From my understanding, the bacteria should be growing on your gravel, ornaments, filter and other surfaces. Doing the 25% water exchanges shouldn't deplete the bacteria. And besides - you have to exchange to keep the ammonia down.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
AquariaCentral.com
Top Bottom