How to get really good CO2 diffusion from a Powerhead

DAVIDFBT

Extinct? Since when?
Feb 3, 2008
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Here is a way to get nearly all of your CO2 dissolved into your water from a Powerhead. I used a Penguin 550 Powerhead, but I'm sure that you can use almost any kind of powerhead to do this. I used to hook up the CO2 source to the Venturi attachment on the powerhead, but this gave me bubbles about the size you would get with an airstone. One day, I was rearranging an airstone in my tank while it was on, and it went under the intake of the powerhead, and out came little bubbles that were barely big enough to see. And a thought popped into my head: I'll put the CO2 under the intake so the impeller chops them up into microbubbles.


All you need is:

A Powerhead (I used a Penguin 550)
Airline tubing (Who doesn't have this laying around?)
A "breathable" sponge about 6"x2"x2" (I used a 3 foot sponge from Wal-Mart that was supposed to be used for insulating windowsills for $3, totally fish-safe.)
An apple corer that is at least the width of the intake of your powerhead
A CO2 source



First, I cut the sponge to size with a box cutter. I had this sponge left over from using it to avoid sucking in fish fry.




Second, I used an apple corer to cut out a hole in the middle of the sponge. It's a little tricky to cut out, but as long as the sponge is straight when you cut into it, you will get a straight cut. And it's okay if the hole is bigger than the intake, the suction from the powerhead will keep the sponge attached to it






Third, I used a plastic straw to cut out a little hole where the airline tubing from the CO2 source will go. You could also poke a hole with a knife.




Fourth, thread the piece of airline tube into the hole you just made. Make sure that the airline is pointed down to let the bubbles come up on their own and not actually get sucked in.




Fifth, I detached the intake strainer from the powerhead so the tube would be aimed downwards as it gets sucked into the impeller and gets chopped up into tiny bubbles.




Sixth, I attached the rest of the powerhead onto the intake strainer. I also put a rubber band around it so the arline tube wouldn't be hanging everywhere and would not be where you want it. I pointed the thing that attaches to the output down so my fish won't go on a crazy ride around the aquarium.




Lastly, hang the powerhead onto the edge of your tank, hook up the airline to your CO2 source, plug the powerhead in, and watch the bubbles fly!






Your plants will thank you by providing many clippings that you could trade at the LFS. :grinyes:






The benefit of this article is that if you can't find a CO2 diffuser around you, you don't have to pay for the diffuser and shipping. Also this acts as an extra sponge filter that holds alot of biological bacteria. This acts as a very simple bubble counter too! It's so easy, a caveman could do it, by just putting your head next to it and count how many "psht" sounds you hear in a second. The "psht" sounds are just the CO2 bubbles hitting the impeller, and aren't audible if you stand more than 3 feet away from your tank.

-David :)
 
This will have minimal efficiency as you have no way of prolonging the contact time of the bubbles with the water for CO2 adsorption. The lower it is in the tank, the more CO2 contact time you will have, but still not efficient.

Check the forums for a DIY CO2 reactor. You'll find one that uses a powerhead with the gravel cleaner from a python as a reaction chamber. Very efficient and simple to make.
 
Nice. But you might want to find something to replace that rubber band. Eventually it will just give. I used the same powerhead to diffuse co2 in my tank a while back but i placed the co2 line into that little airline spot on top of the outflow. But since you are not using that airline spot i hope you have it capped, I had an oto cat die from being sucked in head first into that little opening lol

Cant you reduce the size of the sponge? it seems kinda bulky. And yes as stated above you would get better diffusion if the powerhead is lower in the tank.
 
More smaller bubbles logically means larger total contact area (as compared to fewer, larger bubbles). Super tiny bubbles rise much slower and will remain suspended much longer especially in a strong current. These two factors lead me to concur that the transfer would be much improved just as the OP claims.
 
The airline spot at the top is capped, you just can't see it well. I lost the original one, so I made my own. The sponge is just there to hold the airline in place and so the Guppies' tails don't get sucked into the intake. You could reduce the size of the sponge by removing the intake strainer and just attaching a sponge that is only 2 inches tall.
 
I used to diffuse CO2 by hooking it up to the Venturi watchamacallit. It gave me bubbles the size of aisrstone bubbles, but with this, it the biggest bubbles are the size of the period at the end of this sentence. Even smaller too.
 
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More smaller bubbles logically means larger total contact area (as compared to fewer, larger bubbles). Super tiny bubbles rise much slower and will remain suspended much longer especially in a strong current. These two factors lead me to concur that the transfer would be much improved just as the OP claims.

Improved in relation to an airstone or inserting into the venturi yes, but still inefficient delivery of CO2 and not a viable solution. Take into consideration that most people have tanks 55 and under and you begin to realize that the contact time is minimal even with the smaller bubbles.

My own AC110 CO2 reactor design uses the same kind of thinking and has proved to be inefficient in relation to already established DIY designs as well. Although, it is indeed more efficient than an airstone/venturi.

My point is that neither his design nor mine handles CO2 in a manner that will give appropriate CO2 levels desired in a moderate to high light planted aquarium. Low light plants don't need CO2, so that's not considered.
 
you might want to look at DIY CO2 reactors and change the design a bit.
 
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