I don't know what I'm doing wrong

[wesleydnunder]

Mark,

1. I thought I had cleared it, but apparently not. how long should I wait until I can be confident it's cleared? I don't think it's ick, none of my fish have any white spots, but maybe I'm just not seeing them. I defer to you experience, as I have little.

2. I was going to one LFS, but switched to another one as I had so many deaths from that store. the 2 swordtails, and the 6 (now 1) neon tetras are from the new store.

3. I've read I should be doing this, but I don't have a second tank. I obviously could purchase one, what do I need for a quarantine tank? I probably wouldn't need one nearly as large, but other than that is it just a regular tank? if I leave the quarantine tank empty for a period of time, wouldn't all the beneficial bacteria die out causing that tank to cycle every time I added fish? this is likely something I need to do, I'm just wondering if there are some additional steps I should be taking.

as far as the nitrate, yeah I really shook both bottles (especially #2) and the tube as well. I will try again tonight.

OK...deeeeeep breath....relax

Remember, nothing happens fast in an aquarium EXCEPT a disaster.

To clear ich I prefer to raise the temperature of the tank to 88F and add salt at 3 tsp/gal over the course of a couple days. Raising the temp speeds up the life cycle of the ich parasite so that its vulnerable free-swimming stage is present during the 10 day to 2 week treatment period. After the ich is completely gone the temp may be lowered back to normal and the salt reduced through normal water changes.

Is the lfs where you buy your fish on the same water supply as you?

My Q tank is a 20 high with a couple sponge filters in it...that's it...no gravel, sand, anything but water and sponge filters. I keep one of the sponges in the main tank while the q tank is not being used to keep the sponge filter seeded. The morning before I go to buy new fish ( and I only go to one lfs) I do as close to a 100% change as my python allows, then move the sponge filter from the main tank into the q tank (with this method I don't have to worry about keeping the q tank cycled. When I get my new fish home, I float the bag(s) to equalize temp, then pour the bag water out into a bowl (just in case one of the fish houdinis his way out) and plop the fish into the q tank.


Mark

 

[Danec]

I really appreciate the advice. I will look closely for white spots on my fish tonight.

will raising the temp and adding salt hurt the fish? I'd hate to make the problem worse if it's not ich I'm dealing with.

 

[wesleydnunder]

I really appreciate the advice. I will look closely for white spots on my fish tonight.

will raising the temp and adding salt hurt the fish? I'd hate to make the problem worse if it's not ich I'm dealing with.

Not a great idea to unnecessarily subject fish to any treatment. I think the salt/heat method is less stressful to your fish than a sustained copper bath. In any event, the salt/heat method is ok to use on most fish without worry, provided the change in temperature and salinity don't happen too quickly.

Mark

 

[biondoa]

Hi Dane. I am also relatively new to this hobby, which I love. I am wondering how long ago you purchased your test kit and whether or not it was in a store or shipped by mail or ups. I recently bought a master test kit from Amazon. The API one. I was worried that it might have frozen en route to my home as the weather was frigid at the time. I called API and they said it would be fine as long as I really shake all the bottle very well. I asked the question on Amazon website and got differing answers. Some said it would still be reliable and others said NO. I have two tanks that are about 2 months old, both read at zero parts for ammonia and nitrite and between 5 and 10 parts for nitrates. All seems good so far, but I recently set up a 10 gallon quarantine tank and yesterday I put in 4 leopard danios. I had also added some nitrifying bacteria before adding the fish. Today I changed 2 gallons of water since the tank had not been cycled. After that I tested for ammonia and got zero and then nitrite and got zero. The fish seem fine, but I had expected a higher reading on the ammonia. I am wondering if the test did get frozen getting to me, is it still a reliable test.
Also, if you want to set up a quarantine tank, you can buy a small and cheap one at walmart. No need for lights or décor. Just heater and filter and a top.
Good luck. I can relate to what you are going through.

 

[biondoa]

reposting this reply

I posted a reply here a little earlier and it does not seem to appear in the thread. I hope that this time it does. In the quote you can read my whole reply. I am especially interested in hearing about the viability of the test solutions if they freeze.
Thanks

 

[Danec]

I ordered my kit from Amazon as well. And it definitely could have frozen. I didn't even think of that, but it's certainly possible that's part of my problem.

 

[biondoa]

I hope someone else can weigh in on this. I am worried that my kit may not be giving me reliable readings. Think I will post a new thread.

 

[FreshyFresh]

Someone posted recently about contacting API/Mars directly in regards to the potential of the API master test kit freezing. Their reply was it will not harm the chemicals.