There cannot and never will be a single water change technique which is "one-size-fits-all". Every tank is different from every other -stocking, filter upkeep, planted or not, depth and particle size of substrate in FO tanks, feeding (both the nature of the food and the materials used).
But certain generalities can be given - that the water should be kept as close as possible to the source water, and that checked and confirmed by testing is likely the biggest one. Certain assumptions are built in to even that statement - that appropriate neutralization of utility-added disinfectants is always done, that the water parameters (temp., pH, TDS -total dissolved solids, mineral content - are similar to the tank water. It has to be assumed that the hobbyist knows how to do a water change and how to maintain biofilters without major disturbance. If those assumptions are met, water changes do not adversely affect the biology of the tank, ever, even at large scale. The effects are all positive. If those assumptions are not met, there may well be negative results, because the hobbyist did not know how to do what needed doing, or that the replacement water and the tank water were not similar, or that disinfectants were present at damaging levels, or temperature differential was too great, etc.
All that said, but I never specified what I do myself - I had to re-read this old thread to figure it out. I do 25-50% partials weekly on all my tanks, depending on the bioload in the tank and the level of plant supplements used.