I need help setting up my wet dry filter under my tank? Gahhhh! :( Please help!

[Narwhal72]

The water in the tank will remain at the same level all the time. That water level is dictated by the flow from the pump. Any loss of water due to evaporation or removing water will cause a water level change in the sump.

When you turn the pump off the water will drop down to the top of the overflow box inside lip. It will also drain down through the return lines unless you have a siphon break or check valve installed. It's a good idea to keep the return line outlet as close to the water surface as possible for this reason.

I would suggest you do the following:
1. Plug the pump in and let it fill the tank until you have water draining down into the sump from the overflow.
2. Fill the sump up until the pump is just barely, but completely, submerged in the water. Mark the water level with a marker. This is your minimum operating level.
3. Unplug the pump and let the sump completely fill with the water from the tank that would naturally drain down.
4. Measure the distance from the top of the sump to the water line. Subtract 1/2 inch.
5. Take that measurement and mark a line that much higher than your minimum operating level. This is your maximum fill level.

As long as you keep your sump water level between the two lines when the pump is running, you will not run your pump dry or overflow your sump during a power outage. If your sump completely filled or overflowed during step 3 it is most likely due to excess water draining down through the return line. Installing a check valve can prevent that from happening. It will also increase the distance between your minimum and maximum water levels which can allow you to go longer between requiring the sump to be refilled.

Andy

 

[Mike4155]

^ +1 I did the exact same when I was running my wet dry. Just takes a little tinkering.

 

[fshfanatic]

How full should the tank and sump be? The tank is pretty much as full as I can get now, I can't even get a pic of the water level because it's right at/past the black rim.

The pipe has small slits on the side, plus the opening at the top. How would I fix it?

Fill the tank to about 1/2 inch from the top. Is there a indicator on the sump for "full"?? many have this. Fill it to there or simply fill it about 1/4 - 1/3 full and they turn on the pump. Hopefully you will see the water leave the sump and start filling the sump from the tank. Watch it. Make sure the drains keep up with the pump. add water to the tank if /when needed

Andy said it much better than I did:

The water in the tank will remain at the same level all the time. That water level is dictated by the flow from the pump. Any loss of water due to evaporation or removing water will cause a water level change in the sump.

When you turn the pump off the water will drop down to the top of the overflow box inside lip. It will also drain down through the return lines unless you have a siphon break or check valve installed. It's a good idea to keep the return line outlet as close to the water surface as possible for this reason.

I would suggest you do the following:
1. Plug the pump in and let it fill the tank until you have water draining down into the sump from the overflow.
2. Fill the sump up until the pump is just barely, but completely, submerged in the water. Mark the water level with a marker. This is your minimum operating level.
3. Unplug the pump and let the sump completely fill with the water from the tank that would naturally drain down.
4. Measure the distance from the top of the sump to the water line. Subtract 1/2 inch.
5. Take that measurement and mark a line that much higher than your minimum operating level. This is your maximum fill level.

As long as you keep your sump water level between the two lines when the pump is running, you will not run your pump dry or overflow your sump during a power outage. If your sump completely filled or overflowed during step 3 it is most likely due to excess water draining down through the return line. Installing a check valve can prevent that from happening. It will also increase the distance between your minimum and maximum water levels which can allow you to go longer between requiring the sump to be refilled.

Andy

 

[dani_starr]

put another 2 inch of water in the sump and see how it goes. the water from the tank should stay the same just a tad above the slots on the over flow

So I woke up with the water level in my sump to be 1/2" from the top. I plugged the pump back in, and now the water level stays at the "water level" sticker on the side. But it still is awfully loud, you can hear the water gurgling and the pump trying to push out as much as possible. Water is flowing into the sump, but not fast enough to keep up with the pump it seems.

 

[dani_starr]

The water in the tank will remain at the same level all the time. That water level is dictated by the flow from the pump. Any loss of water due to evaporation or removing water will cause a water level change in the sump.

When you turn the pump off the water will drop down to the top of the overflow box inside lip. It will also drain down through the return lines unless you have a siphon break or check valve installed. It's a good idea to keep the return line outlet as close to the water surface as possible for this reason.

I learned that lesson the hard way, I had the flexible return pipe pointed down before, rather than up at out the water/at the surface as possible. Now it's flat across, and as high as it can go so it's only partially in the water.

I would suggest you do the following:
1. Plug the pump in and let it fill the tank until you have water draining down into the sump from the overflow.
2. Fill the sump up until the pump is just barely, but completely, submerged in the water. Mark the water level with a marker. This is your minimum operating level. (would that be the water level line? I have my pump where the intake of the water tube is right at the water level line, when I had the intake water part on the sump facing downwards, it would suck as much water as possible out. It still sucks it to the point where it's half dry, it makes that gurgling/hallow sound that a HOB filter makes when it initially sucks in the water, except it doesn't stop. But, it stays at the water level line.

3. Unplug the pump and let the sump completely fill with the water from the tank that would naturally drain down.
4. Measure the distance from the top of the sump to the water line. Subtract 1/2 inch. (3 3/4" -1/2"= 3 1/4")
5. Take that measurement and mark a line that much higher than your minimum operating level. This is your maximum fill level.

As long as you keep your sump water level between the two lines when the pump is running, you will not run your pump dry or overflow your sump during a power outage. (It stays right at the minimum fill level, is it supposed to do that? It still is sucking as much as possible till it is running half dry) If your sump completely filled or overflowed during step 3 it is most likely due to excess water draining down through the return line. (didn't overflow this time, so I finally found what level the return pump needs to be at) Installing a check valve can prevent that from happening. It will also increase the distance between your minimum and maximum water levels which can allow you to go longer between requiring the sump to be refilled.

Andy[/QUOTE]

Thank you!

 

[dani_starr]

Fill the tank to about 1/2 inch from the top. Is there a indicator on the sump for "full"?? many have this. Fill it to there or simply fill it about 1/4 - 1/3 full and they turn on the pump. Hopefully you will see the water leave the sump and start filling the sump from the tank. Watch it. Make sure the drains keep up with the pump

(THIS is exactly is my issue, it's not draining fast enough/the pump is too strong, how do I fix that? I have another pump, same Rio 2100, just different model/look, where you can adjust the rate it flows water out of the sump, should I try changing to that one? Since my issue is the pump is going to fast?).

add water to the tank if /when needed

Andy said it much better than I did:[/QUOTE]

 

[dani_starr]

YAY!!!! I put on the other pump, adjusted the knob on it to slow down how fast the water is pumped out, and it's finally working! The water isn't being entirely sucked out and the drain is now about the same as the pump. Yay! (I may get a power head or use another pump for some more water flow on the right side of the tank, but I am not messing with the flow rate of the pump. YAY!!! So happy!

Thanks everyone for all the help!!!!

Edit: Nope, it was just teasing me. I turned down the flow even more, and now it's working. I think I figured out my issue though, I found another pump in the box of fish stuff it came in, a Rio 1100 (not 2100) COVERED in all sorts of dried on marine stuff, I am assuming THAT'S the one they were using. So if it doesn't work at a lower flow rate, then I'll just clean that one off, and try it. It's seems to be okay now though.

 

[excuzzzeme]

Turn off both tank and sump so no water flows
Fill display tank to the point where water begins to enter overflow
Fill sump to proper level
Turn back on and monitor levels.

If sump is empty and tank in danger of overflowing, the pump is pushing more water than the overflow can drain. With a single drainpipe, maximum return would be 600gph, but with modifications it may only return 300gph. See if pump has an adjustment to decrease flow output. There should be nothing in the overflow other than the drain and return. It appears yours has been modified to quiet the drain noise. Remove the blue filter pad as you may be cutting off the air need to make it drain properly.

 

[dani_starr]

Turn off both tank and sump so no water flows
Fill display tank to the point where water begins to enter overflow
Fill sump to proper level
Turn back on and monitor levels.

If sump is empty and tank in danger of overflowing, the pump is pushing more water than the overflow can drain. With a single drainpipe, maximum return would be 600gph, but with modifications it may only return 300gph. See if pump has an adjustment to decrease flow output. There should be nothing in the overflow other than the drain and return. It appears yours has been modified to quiet the drain noise. Remove the blue filter pad as you may be cutting off the air need to make it drain properly.

Yep, it did, and I adjusted even lower, and it seems to be better. I was the one that shoved the blue filter pad in there, thinking that's where it belonged. Lol. I did remove, and it did help some. Removing it, plus decreasing the flow output, it seems to be working okay now. I am gonna wait an hour though before I know for certain. Thanks for the help!

 

[fshfanatic]

YAY!!!! I put on the other pump, adjusted the knob on it to slow down how fast the water is pumped out, and it's finally working! The water isn't being entirely sucked out and the drain is now about the same as the pump. Yay! (I may get a power head or use another pump for some more water flow on the right side of the tank, but I am not messing with the flow rate of the pump. YAY!!! So happy!

Thanks everyone for all the help!!!!

Edit: Nope, it was just teasing me. I turned down the flow even more, and now it's working. I think I figured out my issue though, I found another pump in the box of fish stuff it came in, a Rio 1100 (not 2100) COVERED in all sorts of dried on marine stuff, I am assuming THAT'S the one they were using. So if it doesn't work at a lower flow rate, then I'll just clean that one off, and try it. It's seems to be okay now though.

Thats great