I need to begin research on which SPS corals and few other species of corals

Now back to the original question...research on these corals...

Montipora Cap Purple
Orange Digitata
Superman Monti
Orange Montipora Encrusting Coral (Montipora nodosus)
Montipora Branched Coral (Montipora digitata) Pink, Purple
Leaf Plate Montipora Coral (Montipora capricornis) Orange, Pink, Purple


http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/201-300/Species pages/268.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/201-300/Species pages/251.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/201-300/Species pages/252.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/701-800/Species pages/742.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/401-500/Species pages/458.htm


Montipora sp. are small polyp stony corals that require bright lighting, high water flow, NSW calcium/alkalinity/pH/Mg levels, low nutrients including very low phosphates/nitrates, and phyto-plankton foods. There requirements will mimic all other stony corals. What is important to realize about these corals is that they are peaceful in terms of chemical warfare so can be placed in close proximity to other peaceful corals and remember that these corals are fast growers. Pruning of species may be required to control overgrowth of other species.
*These corals are susceptible to montipora eating nudibranchs and red bugs


Blastomussa wellsi - Fire Red
Blastomussa Merletti


Here is my profile...
Latin Name: Blastomussa merleti/wellsi

Common Name: Blasto merleti and Pipe Blastomussa

Fast facts:Acclimates to medium to moderate water flow, moderate light, and can be fed fleshy foods. These corals are hardy and come in a variety of polyp sizes and colors.

Lighting: Most LPS corals will thrive under moderate light conditions. T5, Power Compact, VHO, and Metal Halide will all do the job.
If you do not have enough light then your corals will lose some colors. However, if you return them to the proper wattage with 10000k/Actinic combos your corals will recover completely.

Environment: Reef, Indo-Pacific

Description: Large polyps extend from stony stems. When full extended the polyps hide the stony skeleton. They are usually red, green, and brown color variants.

Temperature:22C-28C
(72F-82F)

AGGRESSIVENESS: low

Feeding: This coral receives the bulk of it's food from photosynthesis. It can be fed Cyclopes and baby brine shrimp.

Supplements: Cacium and carbonates are a must. 450ppm Calcium/4.5 meg/l Alkilinty

Position: Can be added to sand bed or glued to a reef rock.

Propagation: Stony skeleton can be fragged to form seperate colonies.

Comments: A good intermediate coral for beginners/advanced aquarists. Blasto Merleti is easier to care for than B. Wellsi . I believe these corals should be fed.

View my slide show from pics off of the internet...

http://s85.photobucket.com/albums/k44/mrfiremouth/blastos/?action=view&current=1162835868.pbw


http://s85.photobucket.com/albums/k44/mrfiremouth/blastos/?action=view&current=1162835800.pbw


Acropora Millepora Raspberry
Tortuosa
Purple Acropora Corals (Acropora sp.)
Green Acropora Coral (Acropora sp.)
Blue Acropora Coral (Acropora sp.)
Brown Acropora Coral (Acropora sp.)
Color Tip Acropora Corals (Acropora spp.) All Colors
Neon Acropora Corals (Acropora spp.) All Colors


http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/001-100/Species pages/23.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/701-800/Species pages/782.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/001-100/Species pages/33.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/001-100/Species pages/47.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/801-900/Species pages/824.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/401-500/Species pages/417.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/001-100/Species pages/75.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/001-100/Species pages/81.htm

These are the most commonly seen acros in the hobby. There are many more available upon request of your LFS. Their care requirements are the same as for the montiporas. These corals are also not very aggressive and can be colonized closely to one another. Cuttings will be required to control growth. Colors will vary upon collection site, depth, and light/nutrient levels. These corals will also feed on micro zooplankton and phto-plankton.


Pink Cotton Pillow
Stylophora Coral (Stylophora spp.)
Pocillopora Cauliflower Coral (Pocillopora damicornis) Pink


http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/301-400/Species pages/345.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/801-900/Species pages/883.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/301-400/Species pages/307.htm

Again these are peaceful corals with the same care requirements as above.

Porites Coral Yellow (Porites spp.)


http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/801-900/Species pages/897.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/601-700/Species pages/603.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/301-400/Species pages/318.htm

Yet another peaceful coral.Porites corals are associated with the symbiotic christmas tree worms and parasitic barnacles. Their care requirements are the same as above.


Hydnophora Horn Coral (Hydnophora sp.)
Encrusting Horn Coral (Hydnophora exesa) Cream

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/201-300/Species pages/215.htm

Hydnorphoras come in varying degrees of bright neon green and different shapes. These corals are beautiful but are extremely aggressive to other corals thru chemical warfare. Placement in the tank in relation to flow is critical! These corals can release tiny fragments of nemocyst that sting other corals forcing their immune system to fail and then they RTN and die. These corals can be kept with other corals but care needs to be given to where they are placed. Blue slimers and green slimers are common names of 2 other aggressive corals. Care requirements are the same as above.


OrangeRicordia (Ricordia florida)
http://www.ricordea.org/mushroom_coral/ricordea_florida.htm

http://www.tropicalresources.net/phpBB2/fish_profiles_florida.php

Ricordea Florida are hardy mushrooms that should be placed near the bottom and in shaded areas of a tank with 400w of light. Ricordea yuma(tonga mushroom) is also less tolerant of bright lighting and should be placed in a shadier area.

Turbinaria Ruffled Ridge Coral (Turbinaria sp.)


http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=487

http://www.asira.org/caresheetsIII.pdf
Page 33

Cup corals, ruffled corals are very hardy and adaptable to different lighting conditions. I would place them lower in the aquarium and sit the sideways so that detrtius doesn't settle in the bottom of the ridges/cup.

I hope this helps, Rich
 
No basement, but a crawl space and I was told that at some spots they who need to go under there could almost stand. I wish thou for then I would have one huge sump and skimmer and not look to do as much as what im doing now> I guess, those are the breaks :mad:

OOPS :eek: You double posted, LOL

Now back to the original question...research on these corals...
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I thought of that too this morning for we only spoken of the tanks. I'm not complaining mind you for I was going to start another thread only on the corals. But being that as it may, that you brought it up now.

Now I been reading up on corals and doing searches for some years now, and I see that corals with many, their names are somewhat different. That SPS corals I see, many sites which sell these have a somewhat different name to their corals. Its like the fish, in general speaking, the eel. Most all the time for as long as I care to remember, either the shippers or both, the LFS people name the eels they get in as new arrivals a name to what coloration or close look a likes they might appear as. But bottom line is that the eel names, scientific and common names are all been becoming confusing for many. And now, im having this same type of difficulties with the coral.

*These corals are susceptible to montipora eating nudibranchs and red bugs
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Due to that, I will most certainly have those as part of my coral selection :)

If you do not have enough light then your corals will lose some colors. However, if you return them to the proper wattage with 10000k/Actinic combos your corals will recover completely.
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I readied this all too often from threads in which I just readied to gain me some ground on the SPS coral. And as long as im to get the lighting you differently say that would be needed for my quest, I only now have to be concern not to get the corals which demand lower lighting and currents.

I hope this helps
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My good man, You exceeded yourself> Its far more then anything I ever seen while in these forum sites, and this what you took the time to bring to my attention will keep me quite busy for a good length of time ;)
 
Rich, What of chaetomorpha?

I tend to forget things that I learn that I would want quite some time ago. For one other said of this algae called chaetomorpha and I not remembered it right away that due to the fact that my LFS reef display tanks has this that I made a note on it to be sure to have it in my sumps.

As you know, many people always have a difference in their views from one person too the next, but what if I have this chaetomorpha in the sumps, and have a 4-5" bed of aragonite sand, would I still need the miracle mud?

On the 180 tanks sump, I might be able to have this chaetomorpha without having to change that custom build sump to get me a new sump build. All a sudden, im a new problem at hand, when will it end :)
 
Buddy, you can always add chaeto to a system. I recommend that you read this thread about lighting the sump...
http://www.melevsreef.com/fuge_bulb.html

This thread explains alot about the bulbs you want to use to grow the algae.

Miracle mud is a personal preference that can or can not be used in a system. If it is too much trouble to put it in then you can go without. If you are building a system, then I highly recommend it. I have yet to see negative affects of it's use when properly applied.

Chaeto is a wickedly fast growing caulerpa that does not go sexual like other caulerpas and would cause more problems. It really helps with nitrate and phosphate reduction, IMO.
 
You answered already, I was about to add that I will go with both for I do alot of serious background into these things to reach a final decision and to stick with it as I stick with the idea of doing these tanks for 11-12 years now and as I said, I not once detoured from this thought :)

The miracle mud with go in the sump of the 240 and I will speak to my lfs guy on if we add it into the tank of the 180 or add a box in the sump so I not need to change it. Its crazy on how one needs to make all these decisions and hopefully it all come out right :dance2:

I will read on the lighting of a sump later and thank a Mil for all your efforts :)
 
On the idea of running the algae, I knew of it to help in reducing nutrients in the tank, only I read too often in RC a huge mix in opinions of both, lighting and algae. Like on these tanks, there is one living creature or perhaps you like to call it a flower. That is the anemone, for I was for about a year or so after the tanks were put in to have anemones as well. I had one serious issue on that idea, I couldn't guarantee myself that I can get the anemones to stay in one place. When a readied threads on this it tends to be a risk and the idea on having carpet anemone was out for then I couldn't have the dwarf eels. So after some point of knocking my head around, I decided to scratch the idea.

One the other plans from the start, were to get me a pair of clarions and about a year ago or so, somebody mess things up for the next person by capturing this fish without the Government, knowing about it. It was some time ago and I forget all the details on that story. But anyhow, I was to have this pair in the 240. Perhaps later by the time these tanks are completed with livestock, that the ban on this fish might be lifted. I know that its a risk>

If it is too much trouble to put it in then you can go without. If you are building a system, then I highly recommend it.
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In the 240 sump, I can get it for the sump, the 180 is in question if I can turn that tanks sump into a refugium for when it was setup as a soft coral tank mostly, I not ran anything for nutrients. control. and if it comes down to it and I cannot do anything with it, I will pay my lfs guy to remove the LR and bed to put the miracle mud. I few hundred bucks extra will not kill me, but my Grandchildren are.

This coming Monday, I will drive out to speak with my guy and also the suggestion one giving me of a QT for the corals due to the flatworms, I will speak with J on this that if he could set one tank as a holding tank for these corals with the proper lighting. To hold them as long as a month to watch for any possible hitchhikers. I will tell him as well, that from the time I be able to start stocking these tanks, I will not begin with any of the super demand SPS corals which have the greater demand for high intensity lighting and when ready, will get in every third month or so some 6-8 corals and again would set in the store for a month and I would pay him to even bring them out to me to help set them in place. One of my disabilities be that I have three lower ruptured disk. No tears anyone :)

R$$$, (I had hit the dollar symbol by mistake, and it seem to be a good idea) So tomorrow I have my three youngest grandchildren and the next day, Sunday, I should be off, but there never any guarantees that I can rest it up, besides, the kids soon will all be home for bring break making me one of the busiest granddads around.
 
LOL, enjoy!!! I keep a flower anemone in the sand bed. No problems yet.
anemone.jpg
 
Acropora Millepora Raspberry
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I have to think about this one for Im getting way too many
Raspberry`s from my younger grandchildren, specially from my granddaughter :sim:
 
Rich, with the links you provided, I as well viewed these corals and if they sound ideal to you, perhaps you can give me the common names most used with these coral;

Montipora mollis
Montipora monasteriata
Acropora horrida
Acropora humilis
Acropora secale
Stylophora kuehlmanni
Pocillopora danae
Pocillopora verrucosa
Pocillopora elegans
http://www2.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/201-300/Species%20pages/263.htm
http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/201-300/Species%20pages/264.htm
http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/001-100/Species%20pages/34.htm
http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/001-100/Species pages/35.htm
http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/001-100/Species pages/62.htm
http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/701-800/Species pages/793.htm
http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/801-900/Species pages/858.htm
http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/301-400/Species pages/310.htm
http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/701-800/Species pages/772.htm


Hydnophora Horn Coral (Hydnophora sp.)
Encrusting Horn Coral (Hydnophora exesa) Cream
http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch...0pages/215.htm
This one I best too leave out from what your saying about it, until that is I gain much knowledge in handling these corals>

A million thank you's

Buddy


 
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