My firiend had a 50g tank with a 3" over hang around the edges. It staded up for 15 years untill he had to move away, I never saw him again
I'd like to ask your opinions
- Thread starter Blinky
- Start date
Your tanks, your choice, but no tank of mine will ever be cantilevered without my being sure it is engineered to avoid flexing. And none ever has been. Flat-bottomed acrylic tanks might be more likely than edge-supported glass tanks, but I would still want to know the engineering.
Okay, I've made up my mind! I'm going to get a 65g tank (36"L) on Saturday :dance
I have another idea, wondering what you all think:
With 110W of PC lighting I'll have 2WPG and want to eventually add to that so I can grow higher light plants. I was wondering about using compact fluorescent spirals - they're working wonderfully on my 10g - and came up with this:
I thought I could use the type of fixture generally used in bathrooms where standard incandescents are lined up, and use screw-in CF bulbs. I'd take this fixture and install it in a DIY hood over the tank - possibly a full hood that would also cover the existing fixture.
I was thinking about it, and if I install two regular fluorescent bulbs I'd only get another 60W of light - not bad, but 170W would only be 2.6WPG.
With 6 15W spirals I could get 90W, with 6 23W spirals 138W. This, plus the 110 I've already got would give 248W (~3.8WPG).
As always, opinions are appreciated
I have another idea, wondering what you all think:
With 110W of PC lighting I'll have 2WPG and want to eventually add to that so I can grow higher light plants. I was wondering about using compact fluorescent spirals - they're working wonderfully on my 10g - and came up with this:
I thought I could use the type of fixture generally used in bathrooms where standard incandescents are lined up, and use screw-in CF bulbs. I'd take this fixture and install it in a DIY hood over the tank - possibly a full hood that would also cover the existing fixture.
I was thinking about it, and if I install two regular fluorescent bulbs I'd only get another 60W of light - not bad, but 170W would only be 2.6WPG.
With 6 15W spirals I could get 90W, with 6 23W spirals 138W. This, plus the 110 I've already got would give 248W (~3.8WPG).
As always, opinions are appreciated
You cannot count the wattage of the spiraled tubes as equivalent to the linear or folded linear (PC) tubes. Too much of the light is lost in restrike (hitting the other light-emitting surfaces of the tube itself). They are significantly lower in useful output - much higher than incandescent, but not comparable to linear or PC tubes. You can really only compare tubes of the same format, or add/subtract/judge tubes of the same format. PCs put out more useful light per Watt than NOs, for example.
blitzen25bm had a good suggestion IMO. You don't need to use 2X4's, could use 2X2's even with the plywood on top. But it sounds like you don't really have an overhang. Good luck!
edit: sorry to get on board so late...I wouldn't build a stand that was cantilevered either. In that situation, your using the force of one end to hold the other end up on the opposing side of a fulcrum...which = stress. Stress on glass isn't good. Wood warps, glass cracks, not my stand, your choice.
edit: sorry to get on board so late...I wouldn't build a stand that was cantilevered either. In that situation, your using the force of one end to hold the other end up on the opposing side of a fulcrum...which = stress. Stress on glass isn't good. Wood warps, glass cracks, not my stand, your choice.
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Thanks guys
So if I'm understanding this correctly, it's best to place a board on the floor to spread the load, then place the cinder block columns. On top of the columns, I should place a frame of 2x4 or 2x2 (I would glue and then nail them together - does it matter if they're cut on a 45* angle, like a picture frame, or straight edged?). Last I place a piece of plywood (not pressboard or the like, ply is best, correct?) and some styrofoam/cork, followed by the tank.
I will make certain that the edges of the wood/cinder blocks are slightly outside the edges of the tank (1/2" or so).
I'm going to pick up materials tomorrow, so I hope I've got this right!
RTR - I'm so new at understanding lighting, thanks for the help. I picked up a 3' fixture that fits two T-12 bulbs when I was at Home Depot today - I'll have 110W of PC and 60W from the T-12s (I got 'Daylight' bulbs), which will give me 2.6WPG once I build a hood and install it - should be enough for medium light plants, and I guess that will have to do!
So if I'm understanding this correctly, it's best to place a board on the floor to spread the load, then place the cinder block columns. On top of the columns, I should place a frame of 2x4 or 2x2 (I would glue and then nail them together - does it matter if they're cut on a 45* angle, like a picture frame, or straight edged?). Last I place a piece of plywood (not pressboard or the like, ply is best, correct?) and some styrofoam/cork, followed by the tank.
I will make certain that the edges of the wood/cinder blocks are slightly outside the edges of the tank (1/2" or so).
I'm going to pick up materials tomorrow, so I hope I've got this right!
RTR - I'm so new at understanding lighting, thanks for the help. I picked up a 3' fixture that fits two T-12 bulbs when I was at Home Depot today - I'll have 110W of PC and 60W from the T-12s (I got 'Daylight' bulbs), which will give me 2.6WPG once I build a hood and install it - should be enough for medium light plants, and I guess that will have to do!
The dimensional lumber is best and strongest on edge. Mitered corners are not needed unless you are real woodworker and are offended by non-mitered joints. Glue/nail (or screwed) butt joints are fine. If you glue the topping ply to the dimensional lumber you will maximize stability (if you screw/nail that also, it must be flush or slightly recessed and filled - I just glue. To me, Liquid Nails is forever - the wood fails before the glue).
Lighting is confusing - once upon a time, fluorescent was all NO and life was so much simpler, if less bright.
Lighting is confusing - once upon a time, fluorescent was all NO and life was so much simpler, if less bright.
First off, thanks to everyone so far - this project is progressing, but changing every step of the way!
My maddeningly logical husband and I just sat down with the plans and, just when I thought I was done, he managed to blow holes in everything I had planned out! He's not too keen on the cinder blocks (they don't fit perfectly under the tank - there would be extra sticking out at the back that would interfere with the phone jack and electrical outlets), and we're now thinking about building brick piers - if there's one at each corner, do we need any support in the centre of the tank? The piers would be 8" x 8" - the tank is 36" x 18", so there would be 20" of unsupported length on each long side, and 2" on each short side. I wondered if we cold lay them out with one in the very centre, since it's supporting the wood and not the tank bottom - this would leave some room for the equipment. If we used 6 piers there would be no room for anything underneath the tank.
He's pretty keen on mortaring the bricks (er, well, on me mortaring them, since it's my tank), I said I imagine that over 500lbs pressing down on the bricks would keep them securely in place, but he envisions the dog bumping into them and the entire structure coming down.
[edit] Now I'm thoroughly confused, back to square one. I've just been to www.garf.org and seen plans that seem almost stupidly simple for building your own stand. I guess I've got some more thinking to do :thud: [/edit]
My maddeningly logical husband and I just sat down with the plans and, just when I thought I was done, he managed to blow holes in everything I had planned out! He's not too keen on the cinder blocks (they don't fit perfectly under the tank - there would be extra sticking out at the back that would interfere with the phone jack and electrical outlets), and we're now thinking about building brick piers - if there's one at each corner, do we need any support in the centre of the tank? The piers would be 8" x 8" - the tank is 36" x 18", so there would be 20" of unsupported length on each long side, and 2" on each short side. I wondered if we cold lay them out with one in the very centre, since it's supporting the wood and not the tank bottom - this would leave some room for the equipment. If we used 6 piers there would be no room for anything underneath the tank.
He's pretty keen on mortaring the bricks (er, well, on me mortaring them, since it's my tank), I said I imagine that over 500lbs pressing down on the bricks would keep them securely in place, but he envisions the dog bumping into them and the entire structure coming down.
[edit] Now I'm thoroughly confused, back to square one. I've just been to www.garf.org and seen plans that seem almost stupidly simple for building your own stand. I guess I've got some more thinking to do :thud: [/edit]
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I've never mortared a tank stand in my life, but I've also not used brick, only concrete block and concrete cap blocks (height juggling). I don't know the constantcy of brick - you would have more units, so more chances for irregularity. With block there are few in a stack and they tend to be quite even. I can't offer any suggestion there. If I wanted brick, I'd probably mortar it - but what a pain.
Spans can be engineered readily, you might need to change the dimension lumber under the ply to a different size. I'll pull out the refs tomorrow and post back - but it likely will be late afternoon before I have the time.
Spans can be engineered readily, you might need to change the dimension lumber under the ply to a different size. I'll pull out the refs tomorrow and post back - but it likely will be late afternoon before I have the time.
