im this close to throwing away this hobby.

I just switched solely to prime also...I started using it...then switched to some other junk that included aloe

now I'm back to prime and I will never change again

I'll be the 1,694,375th person to vouch for Prime

it is THE BEST water conditioner period

Honestly I'm happy to see this thread getting a lot of feedback...people on this forum are only here to help honestly

They don't have the vested interest of trying to push products on you because they own a fish store or they want repeat business

that's the beauty of this forum...everyone here just generally cares about fish and their wellbeing...not selling you junk you don't need
 
I dose a full capfull of prime for my 55 no matter how small the water change is, just so you know allecb.
 
I'm going to be honest and admit I didn't read 100% through this. Anyhow, just want to make sure you know how to acclimate them. You should always drip acclimate.
Also, I never buy more than 3 fish at a time so as not to overwhelm the good bacteria.
You did put too much salt in and over too short of a time. Fish can go through osmotic shock though if the level is lowered too quickly as well. Just stick with really hardy fish for the time being. Neons are not hardy!
 
Always drip acclimate?

Not if, for example, the fish have been in the shipping water for 24 hours after buying mail order, for example. Could be instant death. Drip acclimation has its place, but it's not always necessary and in some circumstances is dangerous.
 
KarlTh said:
Always drip acclimate?

Not if, for example, the fish have been in the shipping water for 24 hours after buying mail order, for example. Could be instant death. Drip acclimation has its place, but it's not always necessary and in some circumstances is dangerous.
Click to expand...

I'm really confused by this statement. How could drip acclimation be dangerous?
 
KarlTh said:
Always drip acclimate?

Not if, for example, the fish have been in the shipping water for 24 hours after buying mail order, for example. Could be instant death. Drip acclimation has its place, but it's not always necessary and in some circumstances is dangerous.
Click to expand...

+1. I'd temp match and then plop and drop any fish that have been shipped to me.
 
When fish are shipped large amounts of ammonia accumulate in the shipping bag. This doesn't pose a threat to the fish because in the closed environment CO2 has also accumulated reducing the pH of the water and keeping the ammonia in its less toxic form. Once the shipping bag is opened to the atmosphere the CO2 escapes, pH rises and the ammonia becomes toxic killing the fish. This is why most wholesalers, retailers and shippers use the plop and drop method.
 
Absoultly great information on this thread. Allec I am very sorry to hear about your problems. I will repeat some information I read recently in another forum (may have even been this site come to think of it), although sadly I can not remember exactly where I found it. As I recall there was a woman having issues with fish dying with waterchanges and found when she tested water from the tap there were outrageous amounts of either ammonia or chlor. (man I wish the memory was as good as it used to be. that would be good info to retain) Long story short she was dosing the water with a conditioner and then dumping it in the tank, however upon testing the freshly conditioned water she found that it was taking up to 15 minutes for the tests to come back safe on the water added to the tank. Thusly for small amounts of time she was poisioning the fish. With the more frequent water changes there were even more times the fish were being exposed. I don't know if that has any bearing on your situation in particular but I believe it speaks volumes for testing the water at the tap, not just from the tank.

Also, I recently ran across this article on Ich and thought it was very informative. In it, it explains that by raising the temp in the tank it speeds up the life cycle of the organism but without the proper medication all that has been done is to create a more hospitable place for them to breed, thereby killing fish more quickly. I am by no way an expert on this matter, I am not a microbiologist, but this article in particular explained that levels of salt needed for the treatment of Ich were not possible in a freshwater tank, not if you also wish to keep the fish alive. Link is here.
http://www.aquamaniacs.net/forum/cms_view_article.php?aid=27

Again, these are not situations that I have had any expierience with myself. The website above I found and put into my bookmarks because I knew I'd never find the right forum again. (again it may have been here on AC that i originally found it.) Any other mistakes or omissons have been purly accedental and I can not be held responseable for anything I may have said. I'm practicing for washington! :naughty:
 
i just got a api nitrate test kit (now i have ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate). and i also got prime, and i got sinking waffers for my rainbow shark (he doesnt eat the food i give him, so i figured sinking food might make him interested..and if not, ill have future food for bottom dwellers lol)

how long does conditioner usually take to work in water? i thought usually instantly? anyhow, im gonna do like a 30 percent water change, dose it with prime, and just or extra precaution, ill let it for a few min before i put it in the tank. ill let you guys know how my fish are doing in a day or two.
 
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