In 2010 I spent 5-6 days doing waterchanges? (calling all python users)

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Optimus

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Aug 23, 2010
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I use the aqueon water changer it comes with several different adapters to fit almost any sink and i love it. The siphon tube also has a valve on it so u can just the water. Flow off at ur tank instead of running to the sink. If ur going to use it to fill ur tank back up add the water conditioner to the tank directly for the full volume of the tank not the volume of water u are adding back in
This is the brand I'm aiming to buy. Can you tell me more about the adapter. Is it the main one that comes with the package or do you need to buy another.

Also does it fit onto the metal of the tap/faucet or the thread underneath.

I just did my weekly water change so for 2011 so I'm already 12 hours in. I'm hoping to buy the unit this week.
 

garyfla

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Apr 23, 2010
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Hi
have always been a big fan of automatic water changers rather than pythons , Of course this all depends on your layout. There are a gazillion ways to go about it
I don't use tap water at all because of the poor quality and build in changers with the tank setup. I use rainwater for my 75 which is plumbed with a collection system.
All i have to do is flip a switch and of course move the refill from tank to tank .
If you're going to use tap water a reservoir system is good for a large single tank
or more iif they can be hooked together.
If you are going to go with a "Python" system make your own . You can get all the fittings and tubes at any box store for about a third the "Python" gary
 

garyfla

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Apr 23, 2010
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Hi
Curious as to why nobody plumbs their tanks when they set them up?? Particularly if you're using tap water for changes.
My tap water is lousy so i use collected rainwater and my largest tank was Marine still i had them plumbed . Can't imagine all the hassle
you guys are going through?? I'm setting up an in wall 125 and I'm going to use tap water since it will be a hardwater tank. Was hoping to get some fresh ideas on the setup ??? gary
 

fishorama

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Jun 28, 2006
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gary, I have tanks spread all around my house as many do. There just isn't a practical way to automate so I use a Python. Search the DIY forum for fishroom/big tank WC ideas.
 

jcahow

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Jan 9, 2010
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Water conditioners like Prime are almost instantaneous in their interaction with your tank water according to the vendor. I just add in the appropriate amount for the entire tank and then let the Python flow water directly into the tank. I have never had a problem using this method.

Some things to remember:
1) I always try to split up the required conditioner when adding it to the tank as it circulates faster in the tank that way. Pour some in different parts of the tank before pumpng water back into the tank.

2) If you keep you filters running during water changes then try not to pump water back in right next to a filter intake so the conditioner has a chance to react with the water in the tank before it is pumped through a filter.

3) Make sure the water is flowing at the correct temperature at sink before sending it directly into the tank. I always use running cold water to drain the water out of the tank and change to hot at the very end. That way hot water is in the pipes ready to mix when I pump water back in otherwise the temperature might change when hot water actually gets to the sink. I also have one of those stick on thermometers mounted (taped) on the Python hose and watch what it reads as I drain water out and make sure the water going back in matches the same temperature and I check it more than once as the tank is filling. Remember that if the water being pumped back in does not closely match the existing tank water it may not alter the tank temperature at first (especially in a large tank) until it reached a tipping point, then all of a sudden the temperature will change quickly and you might have to compensate quickly at the faucet. Remember that someone/something else (washer, another faucet, outside hose, etc...) in the house might use home water and cause the initially set temperature of incoming water to fluctuate so keep constantly watching what you are pumping in and the current tank temperature.

4) If like to drain water in tanks down to the top of the canister filter intakes (maximum water change with filters running) then make sure when you reach that water level that you either remove the suction end from the water, shut off the hose flow valve, or shut off the sink flow valve otherwise water will keep flowing through the hose even though the sink water is not running. This could drain out additional tank water causing your filters to run dry and be hard to prime again.

5) I have found it is much easier to have a single lever activated faucet then a faucet with two knobs controlling the hot and cold water. With a lever you can easily figure out pretty close where it has to be pointed to ge the same temperature water every time you do a water change. With two knobs you have to twist each exactly to mix the water to the correct temperature which is harder to do and remember.

6) If you accidentally suck up some gravel while pumping water out it sometimes will clog up the flow and your suction levels will drop accordingly. If it looks like you are not sucking as much up as before just backflush the hose for a second and blow the gravel back into the tank.

7) I always use a metal sink strainer when pumping water from the tank as many times gravel gets sucked up and passed through the hose to the sink and it keeps it from going down the drain. You can collect alot of gravel in the sink if you push the suction hose end deep into the gravel for too long or get distracted especially with high water flows/pressure. I just collect and wash the sink gravel when I am done and throw it back in the tank again.

8) I use a Brass faucet adapter with a Brass quick change end on the Python hose as this gives me a firm non leaking connection that allows me to quickly connect and disconnect the system from the sink and then put the faucet aerator back on when I am done.

9) You should also have a $5 Brass backflow check valve (from hardware store) on your faucet adapter as this keeps any tank water from possibly cross connecting into your house fresh water system. If you are sucking water from your tank and have the hose end under water and the water pressure dropped unexpectedly in your house (near by fire hydrant was opened or a water main broke) water could be sucked into your fresh water system contaminating your local water. A backflow check valve is probably required by local plumbing code any time you have a hose connected to any type of house faucet inside or outside.

10) Be careful when pumping water back into your tank that the hose end is locked into your tank (either by a glass top or some holding device) or it can pop out of the tank and get water all over really fast. This can happen when initially pumping water back in as the end can jump around when water first flows out or if someone accidently trips on the hose.

11) Remember after you are done pumping water into the tank to remove the hose end from the tank and pump the hose dry again before storing it. This will prevent it from leaking all over the floor when carrying it from the sink.

12) You can clean and disinfect the entire hose by dropping it in a large bucket occasionally with some bleach in the water. This will keep the hose clean and kill any algae trying to grow inside the hose, just remember to flush it well before reusing.

I sure they are some other use pointers that I forgot but maybe others can point them out.....................
 

garyfla

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Apr 23, 2010
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Fishorama

Already did that but didn't find much on gravel purgers or automatic declor dosers. Due to my losy water from the tap couldn't use a python.
Going to use a reservoir system on the new setup since it will either be rifts or natives should be a snap to purge . Was thinking of using large gravel 3/4 1 inch in dia. This would require a very low flow purge and also prevent the fish from digging. Can use a simple siphon attached to the toilet for water changes BUT since my wife and I are both home during the day a minimum of ten flushes a day which would mean 15/20 gallons a day. Maybe too much? I have used the system on a tap water setup but the water change was less than 5 gallons a day. I feel that even with a reservoir will still have to use a dispenser. Those I've used in the past tended to overdose.
I have orders from the" management" that IF a tank is setup in the living room there will be "No barrels moved over the carpet and never a spill".lol Thanks for the input gary
 
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