do i have to have it or can i just take samples to my lfs to fined out? any one use a co2 system without one and what were your problems and what is the name brand you have. any one have issues with running there co2 into there canister filter. does is lessen bio filter?
is a co2 controller necessary for 125g planted.
- Thread starter iamvictor2k
- Start date
No one "needs" a pH controller.
It's debatable if they even help, they may some indirectly........
I'd focus on efficient dissolving and misting of the CO2, some are decent at DIY parts.
If so, a dual stage regulator for CO2 off ebay, a nupro or Swagelok or Ideal 1/8" thread male or female TPF end for the needle valve, a decent solenoid, Clippards are decent, some Tygon tubing etc. Gas tank froma local fire extingusher refill place often sell them for peanuts.
100-140$ ought do it. Should last 20-40 years or more.
If not much of DIY: see several smaller web sites selling custom set ups.
I think Sumo is still around.
I'd suggest using a needle wheel modification, say a rio 1000 or so, then snip the impeller blades from 1 into 3 and bend them apart back like this:
The canister filter will clog and slow it's flow down.
Then the CO2 goes down and you get algae.
You need more, not less flow, the powerhead placed in the back lower down, below the out flow of the filter will help mix and increase the CO2 distribution much better.
Search LeftC's dual regulator threads on google.
Thias will giev you some back ground, also, do not get too much lighting, T5's are good, PC's okay etc, but do not think more is better.
More light= more CO2 demand, less wiggle room dosing it/less error.
Obviously you need some for decent growth, but you do not want high weedy growth rates and algae.
Regards,
Tom Barr
It's debatable if they even help, they may some indirectly........
I'd focus on efficient dissolving and misting of the CO2, some are decent at DIY parts.
If so, a dual stage regulator for CO2 off ebay, a nupro or Swagelok or Ideal 1/8" thread male or female TPF end for the needle valve, a decent solenoid, Clippards are decent, some Tygon tubing etc. Gas tank froma local fire extingusher refill place often sell them for peanuts.
100-140$ ought do it. Should last 20-40 years or more.
If not much of DIY: see several smaller web sites selling custom set ups.
I think Sumo is still around.
I'd suggest using a needle wheel modification, say a rio 1000 or so, then snip the impeller blades from 1 into 3 and bend them apart back like this:
The canister filter will clog and slow it's flow down.
Then the CO2 goes down and you get algae.
You need more, not less flow, the powerhead placed in the back lower down, below the out flow of the filter will help mix and increase the CO2 distribution much better.
Search LeftC's dual regulator threads on google.
Thias will giev you some back ground, also, do not get too much lighting, T5's are good, PC's okay etc, but do not think more is better.
More light= more CO2 demand, less wiggle room dosing it/less error.
Obviously you need some for decent growth, but you do not want high weedy growth rates and algae.
Regards,
Tom Barr
Do you mean a pH controller that will open and close your solenoid valve to maintain a steady pH? No they are not necessary. some people run low level CO2 24 hours a day, some will use a timer to open/close the solenoid to correspond with the lights, some will add airstones on timers to run at night. I love the pH controller becasue I like to jack up the CO2 pretty high. The closer you get to an overdose, the more important it is to make pin-point changes. Milwalkee is the brand I use, I am unaware of others. I did replace my probe with a higher quality brand.
To monitor pH without a controller, a drop checker works well, but is slow to adjust to changes- it can take an hour or more to register changes in CO2. Get one that comes with a standardized Kh indicator solution.
The one thing I will stress is that whenever you are adding (or increasing) CO2- watch it carefully for a couple hours after the change. I can't tell you how many times I have wiped out a tank full of fish by just a slight increase (or so I thought) messing with it and not watching it. Especially after lights out. Be really careful.
I wouldn't run my CO2 into my canister. Not so much for the idea you would starve your biological filter of necessary O2 and kill off bacteria, more for the concept that if the CO2 doesn't all dissolve immidiately you could end up with air bubbles that could break your syphon and damage the filter by running dry or that build up will continue to dissolve even after you stop adding additional CO2 if you're running on a timer or pH monitor. You can get two or tree disk diffusers on ebay fpretty cheap, I wouldn't risk damaging your filter.
To monitor pH without a controller, a drop checker works well, but is slow to adjust to changes- it can take an hour or more to register changes in CO2. Get one that comes with a standardized Kh indicator solution.
The one thing I will stress is that whenever you are adding (or increasing) CO2- watch it carefully for a couple hours after the change. I can't tell you how many times I have wiped out a tank full of fish by just a slight increase (or so I thought) messing with it and not watching it. Especially after lights out. Be really careful.
I wouldn't run my CO2 into my canister. Not so much for the idea you would starve your biological filter of necessary O2 and kill off bacteria, more for the concept that if the CO2 doesn't all dissolve immidiately you could end up with air bubbles that could break your syphon and damage the filter by running dry or that build up will continue to dissolve even after you stop adding additional CO2 if you're running on a timer or pH monitor. You can get two or tree disk diffusers on ebay fpretty cheap, I wouldn't risk damaging your filter.