Is my RO/DI working properly?

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BigMike

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Feb 17, 2004
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So from what I'm being told here, diatoms are common if not unavoidable in new setups; fair enough.

My questions are; to what extent should I expect this rust-colored coating on the sand and glass, and should I have green hair-algae already? And if these algaes are fed by phosphates found in tapwater, did I get taken for a ride with the RO/DI I bought?

I have a spectrapure 4-stage RO/DI that is -supposed- to be removing everything from the tapwater I run through it, and I feel like I shouldn't be seeing green hair algae this early on. (tank is roughly 3 weeks old)
I have a 20G tank, and have been changing 2G almost daily for the last 7 days (including 2 big changes of 6G each). Ammo is 0 NitrItes 0 Nitrates 5-10ppm for the last 2 days.
(or am I worrying about nothing, and this is a normal occurrence?)

As always, thanks in advance for any assistance
 
I wouldn't really look at the unit (fine unit, btw) as the source for the hair algae (you are testing TDS and phosphate just in case, right?). Likely, there are significant nutrient sources coming from the processes in the tank itself. You may want to look into some phosphate remover (I suggest ferric oxide hydroxide based removers) now before the algae gets out of hand. Also, in the meantime, remove as much as possible manually. Even with the large water changes, there will still be enough to grow algae, at least initially (trust me). That is where the phosphate remover comes in handy.
 
So I got...

So I got a phosphate test kit, after having a conversation with the LFS guru.
No phosphates in the water, but the guess was that any algae I had besides diatoms was from the initial shrimp-rot, and the inordinate amount of light I had on the tank the first week and a half. (along with a temp on the high side during that time.)

So one phosphate test kit and two turbo snails later...no more hair algae!
The best part, the LFS owner was the one who suggested the cheaper of the two alternatives. (snails were 5.00 for the pair, SeaChem phos remover was 30+ bucks; oh and the test kit was 16 bucks.)
They still don't have any dang cerith snails in yet though, and my sand looks like it's rusted :wall:.

I like finding good mom and pop stores. :headbang2:

Also, I want to thank you, Amph, cause it makes life easier when you go places armed with info as opposed to that 'deer in the headlights' look on your face.
 
The snails can take care of the algae, but the phosphate issue remains. That is why I usually recommend doing something with the water itself, first. Most tests, unfortunately, can't test low enough (for the tank, that is--it is unlikely with pure RO/DI water that phosphate will remain), nor do they test all forms of phosphate (most of which, on the other hand, is fully available for use by algae--figures, huh?). They do establish a good baseline, though (which makes it worthwhile). It lets you know that, while you don't have enough to be a severe problem, you do have enough to cause algae. I don't suggest seachem's brand at all. It is an aluminum based remover and will present problems. A far better alternative is ferric oxide hydroxide, which is sold as PhosBan, Phosar, Phospure, Pura Phos-Lock, RowaPhos, etc. Some are cheaper than others, but they all have (roughly) the same effectiveness, IME. The problem with phosphate is that it also inhibits stony coral growth by directly interfering with calcification (in addition to being 'fertilizer'). Even when you get phosphate levels very low, you will always get some algae. It is then when you get a couple of snails to control that last bit.
 
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