I am about ready to throw it all away. I dipped all my plants, cleaned everything and now after about 2 weeks, maybe it is three, that nasty stuff is coming back. I change water once a week about 15 to 25%. I am thinking that maybe my tap water has junk in it that this algae likes. I also think that maybe I should be adding fertilizer to the water so the plants can giddy up and grow. Maybe this will help out compete the algae. Tank is a 55 gallon with 174 watts of light. I think I need some major help.
It's back (brush algae)
- Thread starter muskieswen
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Speading up plant growth often helps BBA problems. Get a siamese algae eater they are good for controlling black brush algae. They don't get all the old growth but they tend to control the new growth.
Good thoughts. The idea is to have the plants outcompete the algae for nutrients, therefore you'll need to fertilize, dependant on your plant's needs.
Have you read the Stickied Posts at the top of this Forum? An excellent place to start...
Indeed, but another question is with over 3wpg, are you adding extra CO2? Your plants won't take up extra nutrients if they don't have enough carbon. This allows algea to gain the upper hand, being the better scavenger.
happychem
Yes I am running a pressurized c02 system. I noticed last night that most of the algae problems is on the side of where the c02 reactor is. I thought algae did not like c02.
Yes I am running a pressurized c02 system. I noticed last night that most of the algae problems is on the side of where the c02 reactor is. I thought algae did not like c02.
Algae is a plant, the most rudimentary form of plant. So anything that is good for plants is good for algae. The balance is this:
Primitive beings like algae are able to respond more quickly to environmental changes, like imbalances in nutrients and light. However, as single celled organisms, they are unable to store nutrients. They grow and divide or die.
Developed plants are at a disadvantage if conditions are not balanced. However, many are able to outcompete algea for nutrients, given the right balance. Also, in the absence of nutrients or light, higher plants can survive off stored resources.
Basically, if you have all your nutrients balanced, fast growing plants will outcompete algea. But if you've got an imbalance, the more flexible algae will take advantage of whatever's left over. This usually means phosphate, according to Sears and Conlin.
Primitive beings like algae are able to respond more quickly to environmental changes, like imbalances in nutrients and light. However, as single celled organisms, they are unable to store nutrients. They grow and divide or die.
Developed plants are at a disadvantage if conditions are not balanced. However, many are able to outcompete algea for nutrients, given the right balance. Also, in the absence of nutrients or light, higher plants can survive off stored resources.
Basically, if you have all your nutrients balanced, fast growing plants will outcompete algea. But if you've got an imbalance, the more flexible algae will take advantage of whatever's left over. This usually means phosphate, according to Sears and Conlin.
All good advice.....up the CO2, keep pruning and scrubbing.
If you clean up the old stuff and add an SAE you will not see a repeat infestation.
I don't like SAE's only because at bout 1-year old they get aggressive at feeding time in my tanks with small fish in them.
BUT, they are a must for controlling this type of algae, IMO.
Luckily, my LFS will take the large ones back in exchange for juveniles when I bring them in.
Cleanliness, and maximum CO2 are key as well, for this type algae.
Len
If you clean up the old stuff and add an SAE you will not see a repeat infestation.
I don't like SAE's only because at bout 1-year old they get aggressive at feeding time in my tanks with small fish in them.
BUT, they are a must for controlling this type of algae, IMO.
Luckily, my LFS will take the large ones back in exchange for juveniles when I bring them in.
Cleanliness, and maximum CO2 are key as well, for this type algae.
Len
djlen
According to the c02 charts I am running at 39 ppm on c02. My tap water was at 8ph and kh was 13. With the rate of flow I have going I have reduced the ph down to 6.9 to 7.0. Should I let a few more bubbles out and shoot for 6.5 ph? My fish are not gasping in the morning after the lights have been off all night and in general seem normal. I definetly am going to find a couple of SAE'S.
According to the c02 charts I am running at 39 ppm on c02. My tap water was at 8ph and kh was 13. With the rate of flow I have going I have reduced the ph down to 6.9 to 7.0. Should I let a few more bubbles out and shoot for 6.5 ph? My fish are not gasping in the morning after the lights have been off all night and in general seem normal. I definetly am going to find a couple of SAE'S.
Addendum to previous algae post
One more thought, would using Ro water on my weekly change be of some help?
One more thought, would using Ro water on my weekly change be of some help?
I would not increase the CO2 if that's what you are pushing?
Prune it out and yes, get ONE SAE. He or she will do the job for you.
Len
Prune it out and yes, get ONE SAE. He or she will do the job for you.
Len