Joel's 1st Marine Build

or hair algae, which sucks.
 
Looks really good. Wish I knew more about in-sump skimmers but hey there's bubbles in there :). The hairy stuff could just be debris coming off the rock that was dead/dying or it could be some other algae which again is notmal in a new setup. Just keep an eye on it for now and watch your levels (especially phosphates).
 
...(especially phosphates).

Thanks all. I was thinking about waiting on getting more tests, but your suggestion motivated me to pick up an API Master Reef Test Kit. Did the tests (hopefully correctly) and got:

Phosphate = 0
Calcium = 600 ppm (needed 30 drops to turn blue)
Alkalinity = 12 dKH

I think that's a pretty good starting point for a reef tank. yes?
 
Thanks all. I was thinking about waiting on getting more tests, but your suggestion motivated me to pick up an API Master Reef Test Kit. Did the tests (hopefully correctly) and got:

Phosphate = 0
Calcium = 600 ppm (needed 30 drops to turn blue)
Alkalinity = 12 dKH

I think that's a pretty good starting point for a reef tank. yes?

One of those tests is inaccurate and I'm willing to bet the calcium is the one off. Their alkalinity test is usually very accurate, but the calcium never has been, IME. It would be very, very difficult to maintain those kind of values simultaneously. The phosphate kit is okay for much higher ranges, but for low range, it doesn't say much. I suggest for phosphate you wait until the new Hanna meters come out, assuming they are as accurate as their counterparts.
 
Yup, I would not dose anything at all to the water with those readings. Both Alk and CA are at the top end of the scale. CA is actually way over the top but it won't hurt anything. Usually you try and stay somewhere in the range of 380-460. Good news about your readings though is you should get some really good coralline algae growth (purple stuff on the rocks) with those readings.

Dang Amphiprion and his ninja skills. ;)
 
Both helpful responses!

Assuming my tests are in the neighborhood of correct, will I most likely need to dose if I want to keep corals, or maybe just do water changes to replenish Ca? (maybe hard to say since there are many other TBD factors)

Also on the subject of water chemistry. My current SG is ~= 1.0245 (measured with a hydrometer, so possible not precise) and Temp = 75F. I've seen some different information about optimal for a reef tank. What #'s should I strive for?

Thanks!

Oh, and I do think I am getting more purple coraline growth on some of my rock. :)
 
Well, if you were to assume that those tests are correct, you don't need to add anything at the moment, as Ace said. I just don't believe one of them actually is correct, but that is simply intuition, mixed with a bit of experience and online wizardry. Getting another reliable calcium test would prove or disprove it. I think Salifert is fine for calcium (I just don't like their alkalinity kits). (Edit: in the long run, with calcifying corals, you'll definitely need to dose, though).

The actual parameters of salinity and temp are a bit of a debate, especially the temp. I'll simply say that the reef averages are 1.0264 (35 ppt) and 82 F, respectively. Actually, with temps, the mother lode of coral diversity occurs around 84, which is coincidentally very (very) close to the tolerable maximum.

Edit 2: Ace, I hope you can appreciate the new ava.
 
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Two Updates

(1) Water
Had a strange experience -- made up 5 gallons of SW for a water change which tested at 1.0245 SG. Then a few days later I started heating it for a change, tested the SG again and it was off the scale! (On my hydrometer). That made me wonder if my hydrometer had gone wonky, but I tested my main tank water and it was at the expected reading....?

Is hydrometer accuracy affected by water temp?
Will salted water somehow become saltier over time?

I decided though, that I would get a refractometer just in case, so I ordered one from blukreefsupply. I also decided to order the 5 stage RO/DI unit as another way to improve my reef tank "infrastructure". Should be helpful!

(2) Fish!
Water params have remained stable, so I've been actively browsing for fish. Yesterday I stopped at a LFS with a lot of nice specimens, so I got two!

A. 1.5" Bicolor Blenny -- Apparently a rarer species with a really dark front half. So far he's been active at times, but then also sometimes just backs into a LR hole and camps out. Seems like normal behavior for a blenny, from what I understand, so I'm pleased!

B. 2" Yellow-headed Jawfish -- This one was a little more of an impulse buy and actually I think I may have been misled by the LFS. They had two specimins: one larger and very active, the other smaller and hiding under a shell. They convinced me to get the hider, saying this indicated he was more relaxed and healthier, but I'm wondering if that's true....

Since I got him, he's dug out a little cave (not a burrow, but a wider/shallower cave) and is just sitting in there looking a little listless. I guess jawfish tend to hide in caves, but I just don't like how he's looking so far.....:confused:

Any suggestions on best initial care for the jawfish?
Do I need to add rubble to my sand substrate so he has some building blocks for cave assembly?

...........I think these fish are compatible with my peaceful reef plan, and hopefully will be happy and thrive. Let me know, though, if any of you all think I've made any mistakes that I need to correct....Will try to post pics soon!
 
yes.. salinity readings with a hydrometer differ with different temperatures. usually i bring my water up to temp first (right around tank temp) then add salt, then i let it age a day or 2 at temperature and then do my water change. (i have a 20 gallon plastic container i use to store the saltwater in with heater and powerhead in) usually you have to plan ahead if you do it like this, however it makes it very very easy to do water changes. just old water out, new water in, good to go... also, i have a bicolor blenny also and mines behavior is similar to yours. he is an absolute joy to watch. (named him reverse because he always backs into his hole)
 
Well, refractive index and conductivity also vary with temperature. You'll want to let the sample reach room temperature before using your refractometer. Basically I always try to take readings that are at the same temperature of the instrument to get as accurate a reading as possible. This is also because my refractometer was calibrated with a solution at ~75 degrees (my tank is 82 degrees).

What I do find odd is that you say the salinity increased after you heated it? I suspect something may be wrong with the measurement, as it should read lower at a higher temperature compared to a colder temperature (without compensation, that is).
 
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