Keeping the pH down

Before spending money on a test kit [and the API is a good one if you do] I would check with your municipal water supply people. Many have a website, and this may be stated, or they should be able to tell you if you ask. If you find a website but can't fathom the data [this can be under various names, like Alkalinity, bicarbonate, etc), post the link and one of us can take a look.

KH has no effect on fish, but as I mentioned previously it does buffer the pH, or work to keep it stable. Knowing the KH will simply tell you and us how much effort is going to be needed to lower the pH.

The breakdown of organics by bacteria in the substrate is the major source of natural CO2 in an aquarium, and CO2 will acidify the water, thus lowering pH. But again the KH may counter this. The easiest and safest way to lower KH is by diluting the water with "pure" water like RO or distilled or rainwater/snowmelt. But before we venture into this, knowing the KH is essential. In my situation with near-zero KH, the tap water pH of 7 or 7.2 lowers to anywhere from below 6 to 6.4 depending upon the aquarium; each is biologically unique according to the fish load, amount of wood, leaves, plants, etc.

Shale is not calcareous, so no issue there. Marble, dolomite, limestone, lava, coral, shells are all calcareous.

To the fish. There are many South American fish that will be fine at a pH around 7.0 but without knowing the species I can't say more. You shouldn't have issues with most if you can achieve a pH just under 7, or even above with many. The GH is actually the more important of the two (GH and pH). You haven't mentioned GH yet; again, this the water folks should have.

Byron.

Byron, you said kh doesnt effect fish but it does effect ph. Wouldnt kh indirectly effect fish then? For example putting an african cichlid in soft acidic water would take a toll on the fish. Not doubting your info, just trying to clarify.

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Okay, I'm going off well water, so yeah, there's no one who... regulates it, I suppose you could say. But I will get a test kit for the KH/GH as soon as I can and get back to you. The fish I'm mainly working with here are blue rams, cockatoo cichlids, and severums. The rest of my tank parameters are fine, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, less than 5 nitrate, and yet the only time I've been able to keep the blue rams alive was when the pH was at 6.5.
 
Byron, you said kh doesnt effect fish but it does effect ph. Wouldnt kh indirectly effect fish then? For example putting an african cichlid in soft acidic water would take a toll on the fish. Not doubting your info, just trying to clarify.

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Yes. To clarify, KH on its own as carbonate hardness does not directly affect fish. But it does "buffer" pH, and pH can affect fish depending upon the pH and the fish species. GH is still the most important for fish, as it has a very direct effect on the physiology of all fish; and obviously GH may be tied to KH, though it is still possible to have one low and the other high. The pH also does affect fish physiology but in a sense to a lesser degree, provided it is not too far off what it should be for the species. And this can vary within a species, as I will mention in the next post in answer to the issue of the fish species here.

Byron.
 
Okay, I'm going off well water, so yeah, there's no one who... regulates it, I suppose you could say. But I will get a test kit for the KH/GH as soon as I can and get back to you. The fish I'm mainly working with here are blue rams, cockatoo cichlids, and severums. The rest of my tank parameters are fine, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, less than 5 nitrate, and yet the only time I've been able to keep the blue rams alive was when the pH was at 6.5.

One other option for testing GH and KH is at a reliable fish store. Some will do such tests. I only suggest this because once you test the water and know the GH/KH, you may never need to test again. But if the few dollars for the API test (which is GH and KH) is not an issue, go for it. Make sure you get the liquid test, not strips.

To your fish. Aside from my comments momentarily about the source of the apisto and ram, these species mentioned should not have issues in the pH of 6.8 to 7.2 range. We still don't know the GH, and with a well this could be an issue. I will reference both GH and pH ranges in my subsequent comments.

The severum is probably the species Heros efasciatus which is the species usually seen as "severum;" the true species, Heros severum, is apparently almost unknown in the hobby, unless you are a cichlid specialist. Store-bought fish will almost certainly be H. fasciatus. And likely tank-raised fish. The GH range is soft to moderately hard (about 4 to 15 dGH), and the pH range is 6.0 to 7.5 roughly speaking.

The cockatoo, Apistogramma cacatuoides, is an exception among the South American dwarf cichlids in having a wider range in GH and pH than most. Here again you will likely encounter tank-raised (commercial) fish, and their tolerance is roughly < 10 dGH, and up to 7.6 in pH. Wild caught fish are very different, requiring very soft and acidic water. If you acquired this species from a direct importer from South America, they will be wild caught. But most store fish will not, as this species is now widely raised.

The common or blue ram is similar. Store fish will almost certainly be commercially-raised fish, unless the dealer imports directly. This species, Mikrogeophagus ramirezi, should be maintained in water parameters similar to those in which it was hatched and raised. Unless you can ascertain the exact hatchery, or you know the hobbyist breeding them, this is probably going to be difficult to determine; we are not talking the supplier, but the actual hatchery. But given the situation in North America, if that is where you live, I would suggest that you should have no issues in your water (subject to the GH determination).

You previously mentioned no luck with these fish in your water, so once again the GH may be the factor we are dealing with. Or perhaps being well water there are other issues: minerals like iron, calcium; nitrates especially if in an agricultural area. Have you tested your source water for nitrate (and ammonia and nitrite while you're at it)? Any of these can be present. And while some will say nitrates are not that important, we now know differently. Cichlids are in fact highly sensitive to nitrate, long-term. I can go more into this if we have a nitrate (or amonia/nitrite) issue.

Byron.
 
Byron, you said kh doesnt effect fish but it does effect ph. Wouldnt kh indirectly effect fish then? For example putting an african cichlid in soft acidic water would take a toll on the fish. Not doubting your info, just trying to clarify.

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KH, GH, salinity and other compounds combine as TDS, total dissolved solids. These do effect fish.
TDS effects osmoregulation, among other things.

Freshwater fish are continually infused with water since their blood is more concentrated than the surrounding water. It permeates their skin and gills. They need to urinate almost continually to rid their bodies of the excess water. The TDS of the water has an effect on the amount of water that is absorbed by the fishes' bodies, and so effects how hard their kidneys must work to rid themselves of it. This is why changes in hardness should happen very gradually. Rapid changes in hardness can cause osmotic shock (sometimes incorrectly called PH shock), resulting in most fish having difficulty maintaining homeostasis. This can cause death.

Mark
 
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