A few suggestions on housing and care.
First, you will want to ditch the carpet and get yourself some screened playsand. The carpet will snag and break/tear off toes.
Second, get an undertank heater or ceremic heat emitter, not a heat rock. Heat rocks have an internal thermostat that will fail and potentially burn your lizard. A heat prob/thermometer is a good thing as well. One for the hot side and one for the cool side is ideal.
Third, this one is a personal preference, you will find stories for both sides, but I don't feed any of my reptiles mealworms/superworms. They have the ability to survive the crunching and eat away at the lizards stomach, killing the lizard. Like I said, it's a personal preference, and you will get both sides of the story for the survival of the mealworms in the stomach. I never wanted to take the chance, and they dont' offer much value in the diet. Stay away from waxworms, all they are is fat. Gut loaded crickets are always best. Dust them every other feeding with a high quality dust.
Next, get a water dish, leopards will actually drink from a dish, unlike most other geckos. They dehydrate quickly. The bigger tails girth, the healther the lizard. Offer plenty of hides and places for it to climb. Keep her curious about her surroundings and she will be much happier. Offer hides on the hot and cool sides. The hide on the cool side should contain moist moss for help in shedding. Leopards will eat the shedded skin, so don't "help" with shedding by pulling at the loose skin.
Lastly, PM Vicious_Fish, he has been keeping and breeding leopard geckos for over 16 years and will be able to help you with any problem that would arise.
First, you will want to ditch the carpet and get yourself some screened playsand. The carpet will snag and break/tear off toes.
Second, get an undertank heater or ceremic heat emitter, not a heat rock. Heat rocks have an internal thermostat that will fail and potentially burn your lizard. A heat prob/thermometer is a good thing as well. One for the hot side and one for the cool side is ideal.
Third, this one is a personal preference, you will find stories for both sides, but I don't feed any of my reptiles mealworms/superworms. They have the ability to survive the crunching and eat away at the lizards stomach, killing the lizard. Like I said, it's a personal preference, and you will get both sides of the story for the survival of the mealworms in the stomach. I never wanted to take the chance, and they dont' offer much value in the diet. Stay away from waxworms, all they are is fat. Gut loaded crickets are always best. Dust them every other feeding with a high quality dust.
Next, get a water dish, leopards will actually drink from a dish, unlike most other geckos. They dehydrate quickly. The bigger tails girth, the healther the lizard. Offer plenty of hides and places for it to climb. Keep her curious about her surroundings and she will be much happier. Offer hides on the hot and cool sides. The hide on the cool side should contain moist moss for help in shedding. Leopards will eat the shedded skin, so don't "help" with shedding by pulling at the loose skin.
Lastly, PM Vicious_Fish, he has been keeping and breeding leopard geckos for over 16 years and will be able to help you with any problem that would arise.
