LFS Myths?

millie3

AC Members
Feb 18, 2007
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0
Reading, MA
Hello again!
Well, we did our shopping and have everything set up and checked the whole system for leaks. We are now ready to fill her up for real!
While at my lfs this weekend, they insisted on 3 things that I think I don't agree with after reading a great deal on this site. I would love to hear your opinions on the following:
1. LFS told me I needed to have a cannister filter in addition to a protein skimmer.
2. they highly recommend I use a wet-dry trickle with bioballs
3. Recommending a 50% water change monthly.

My set up is 55g/coralife superskimmer 65/500gph pump plus 2 mj900's/will put 60 lb or so live rock next week.

One more question...after filling, when is the tank ready to accept live rock? I assume when the pH, specific gravity and temperature are correct. Is there anything else I have to wait for?
Thanks!!
 
NO NO And 10% weekly. And you are correct.
 
The LFS will always suggest you get equipment and supplies from them... Its their livelyhood, and they want you to spend your money there... However, if they suggest things you don't need, I would suggest looking elsewhere for your info...

I would agree with the LFS to a point... you may want to run both a canister and a skimmer, depending on what else you run or what you want in your tank... with so many variables you may very well find you want both... They do different functions as filters and you may or may not need both...

At first I would say that you don't need a skimmer to start with... but this is my opinion and others may disagree, I think the mechanical and chemical filtration from the cansiter is more important in the begining... your live rock will cover the bio filtration but if you plan to run softies etc. in your tank you may want to add that wet/dry

I once read something that I've learned to be very true to this hobby...

Nothing good ever happens fast in a saltwater tank!

Adding life to your tank should be a relatively slow process

If I could do my tank over I would have started with the gravel/sand and water only first. then after the water cleared I would add some established sand to my tank with a nice peice of deli shrimp... let that thing rott for a bit then start adding small amounts of live rock. nothing speacial, just some neat looking peices for more life later. the maybe get yourself a stater fish or two.. let them continue to cycle your tank. and then after a good ammount of regular tests and water changes I'd say 20% every 2wks to start for the first month or two then maybe 10% etc... you'll learn your tanks cycle and when it needs to be changed after a good year or so...

Just remember to take it easy and go slow... If you want to kick it up a notch after your initial few cycles try getting a variety of rock from various places, you'll find different places have a variety of life from togna rock to figi rock, its all different

Most of all, I suggest you read more articles from more experienced people...

I am an amateur and there are definitely others that can help even more. I just wanted to get you started in the right direction...

BTW, print some of this stuff out so you can read it while you are at your tank, or get a book...

Its always nice to have the hard copy handy when your not in front of the screen...

Hope that helps
 
I would agree with Jojo. Canister Filters and wet/dry with bio balls tend to become nitrate producers if not kept up properly. If you have the recommended amount of LR in your tank(1-1.5 lbs./gal) you won't need to have either type of filter. You are also correct about adding your LR to the tank when the ph, temp, and S.G. are correct. You can then use your LR to cycle the tank depending on the amount of die off on your LR there is. No matter what, I would not recommend using damsels to cycle or complete your cycle. It is inhumane to the damsels because the ammonia that you are looking for burns their gills and if they do manage to survive they will be mean little critters in your tank and they are very quick and hard to remove when you realize that you want to. As far a water changes I would recommend 10%-20% every week even after the tank is established. It is healthier for your occupants.
 
yea 10% weekly is best. bioballs are nitrate sponges...and sumps can be beneficial but the wetdry part causes more problems usually. if u want one replacing the wetdry part with live rock is best. as for canister filters they arent needed but if striped of the parts that came with it, the chambers can be used as extra area for things like carbons or resins to aid in tank cleanliness as well as more water volume, flow, and u can put live rock in there as well.
 
Thanks for the info. You guys are wonderful!
Since I have an acrylic sump with a wet/dry area, can I use the area where the bioballs could've been to add nylon bags containing different media if I need them instead of a canister filter?
Thanks again.
 
Load it up with LR rubble and let it go. You will be fine.
 
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