That is not really disagreement - this is all pure personal guesstimate stuff. I run enough tanks of different sizes and different lighting strengths that I can tell pretty closely where I will turn into hair algae heaven if I don't start adding things to boost plant growth. For it to be most informative, I should specify that most of my tanks are smallish natural gravel, most have a light dusting of peat at the bottom while the tank is bare (which may have been years ago and therefore no longer a real factor). ALL have significant old mulm - either built up over the years, or gathered and added if the tank is relatively freshly set. A significant percentage have laterite in the base layer as well. Nutrient poor my tanks are not, at least the substrate. Plus my plants are almost all rooted rosettes, or rhizomes, or bulbs/tubers. I do very few to no stem plants in other than freshly set tanks, and those are short-term only as the tank matures. All that influences the interaction of light/CO2/nutrients/plants. Plus I am a water changer - Tom Barr does not support my neurotic water partials in setups such as mine, but like my tube choices, it is a compulsion. I get itchy if I cut back on water changes. My whole collection is designed to facilitate water partials (circulating ranges, sumps, aging vessels, pumps and hoses everywhere). If I had floor drains I would have all the FW in the tank room automated.
Everybody has to define their own levels at the fine-tuning numbers level. I know what works for me and where I start having issues with increasing light. It may not behave the same in your tanks - different water, different substrates, different plants, different fish, and different levels of upkeep - I do not do much re-landscaping at all, but do lots of partials - that is not the common practice for my light levels. Very few of my tanks have more than 3-5 types of plants, but large numbers or mass of those plants which are used. (Dutch style designs make my skin crawl - remind me of my grandmother's flower borders, just not my taste.)
There is no one true path for any of this stuff - there are many techniques and styles, and while the principles are the same the detail and execution needs to be customized to the individual's own comfort and style.
Back in the real world - 10s and smaller tanks "need" a lot more light than more conventional format tanks. My few tens are all QT and grow-out, mostly set w/two 15W NOs and operated as if moderate light. I don't have anything smaller and If I were not so greedy I'd get rid of the 3 reamaining 10s -I'm much more comfortable with 15s and 20-longs,or actually with 30-longs, 40-longs, 50s - those are my favored layouts below the magic 75s and 120s (the two "perfect" tanks IMHO). My long-term goal is to rduce the numbers of my tanks, but reactivate the larger tanks which are idle now. First I need to allow multiple of my very old friends to live out their lives in the midsize tanks. There are disadvantages to keeping long-lived fish.
"Miro"s a brand of highly engineered and patented reflectors, designed fo PCs, and handled by AHSupply which are the best on the market for PCs. They are coated aluminized reflectors which are head and sholders above anything else I've seen or worked with. Spiderlights used to be available for NO/T8/T5 tubes but seem not to be so available now.
