Light for 5.5G

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Aries

"Umm...., what is that!!??"
Jan 19, 2003
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I am told that in order to plant successfully in a 5.5G tank you will need more WPG than say in a 55G tank. So my question is, where in the world do I find a fixture that can give me say 5+ WPG? I have not been able to find one that does not cost an arm and a leg. Currently I am looking at 14W (2.54WPG) which apparently is not enough.

Just for reference, I am looking to grow

Space is limited - even if I extend past the tank. Tank is 16" long and I have say ~.75" on either side of the tank to place a light. This makes for ~17.5" total length to work with.

I found an 18W 9" (2x9w) fixture for $24.99 but that does not increase the WPG much. If I can cram 2 in their (which I doubt because of space) that makes for 6.54 WPG but costs $50.00 and may not even fit. I can probably swap up bulbs to 13W bulbs which will yield 4.72WPG.

I also found one for $45+ship and is 26W (2x13w) which yields 4.72WPG.

What should I do to get appropriate WPG for a 5.5G Tank that is less than 17.5"

Thanks

Aries
 
The wattage per gallon rule breaks down for tanks below 20 gallons because the light tubes with less than 18w simply doesn't give off enough energy to benefit high light plants. Preferably, you want a single tube around the 18w range rather than 2x9w. The light from the 18w will penetrate much deeper than the 2x9w.

If you can, switch to power compact lights. If you have room over your tank, try a lamp with a compact fluorescent screw in bulb like this and you'll be able to grow anything.
 
One of the issues I have with this hobby is that there are so many folks telling other folks what they 'should' have especially from a lighting standpoint.:)
Two questions: What kind of lighting are you presently using? NO or CF?
What kind of tank/plants are you looking to work with? High light/high maintenance, low light/maintenance or somewhere in between?
If you want go low and you're presently using NO lighting you will be fine and able to grow many types of plants at 2.5 wpg. If that fixture is CF you're in the low/med. category and will get redder reds and more lush growth.
I am lighting my 5.5 with a 23watt 6300K CF screw in fluorescent bulb that cost me about $9 on line. I made the box for it for a couple of dollars and bought the hardware at Home Depot for a couple more. I have a 10 with two of the same bulbs over it and am very happy with the colors my plants produce under that light.
Let us know what you have in mind for your tank and someone will make suggestions from there for you.
 
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We a building two 5.5G tanks. The one light bought is 14W NO Fluorescent Tube. No other light has been bought.

For mine, I am going more "med/high" light. I am building a dwarf puffer tank with plants from their area (give or take some miles).
Asian Ambulia Limnophila sesiliflora
Tiger Lotus Nymphaea zenkeri
Vals, Italian Vallisneria spiralis
Ciliata Cryptocoryne ciliata

She is looking for
Bateri Round Leaf, Green Hedge (maybe not a possibility???), and Lilaeopsis Novae for gound cover. She too wants a type of Val (type unknown) as well.

I did more research and found ideas like what you suggested - a cf screw in bulb. I have a question on that. The hood I would be buying for the other tank can have an incadescent bulb. However, it is biased on one side of the fixture with a short metal reflector that does not extend the length of the fixture (which makes sense why it does not). If I buy a 28W Bulb , will that suffice? Or will the location bias of the bulb affect the "output"?

On a side note, I have found out that it is not quite correct to use WPG but should better be considered Lumens Per Gallon? Is that a more correct calculation for lights?


Thanks so much for help!!!

Aries
 
First I need to clarify something. In my post above, my remark about, 'people telling other people what they should have' , was not directed at 'phanmc'.
I was responding to your post and he/she must have posted at the same time as me with a reply. I don't want to come off as belittling his/her post.
Now, IMO the bulb you link to (28 watts CF) would be more than adequate for the plants you refer to in your post. Why in the world they would manufacture a hood in which the bulb would sit off-set to one side or the other, is beyond me. Makes no sense. It won't affect 'output', but would affect coverage, so I would either look elsewhere or buy it and move the bulb base and reflector within the hood to sit in a more central position.
I don't think it's all that critical which you call it.....wpg/lpg. I've been using wpg for so long I doubt that I'd ever change at this point.
Lastly, be very, very careful if you decide to buy 'Green Hedge'. Many LFSs sell a plant by that name that will not live for more than a month or two in a submersed manner. It's pretty, but won't live long.
As mentioned previously, before you buy and hook up your lighting it would be a good idea to load up on plants(some floaters) and your needed nutrients and CO2/Excel to prepare for that brightness.

Len
 
I know you were not "attacking" phanmc because I know you do not do that in all the millions of times you have helped me or others.

Hmmm, didnt think about moving the bulb base - that might be a key idea.

You mentioned preparing for the brightness - is this too bright? I have advanced very far in fertilizers (refering to 30G that is finally on the ball!!!). I can always reduce down to say 18w or 23w. Which would be better?

My plan for my tank is to fishless cylcle with filter media from other tanks and pure ammonia - no light from fixture based on too much light (is this wise???). Then buy plants near the end of the cycle and add them so I can add ferts to keep them alive during the hopefully short process of cycling the tank.

Anyway, I will mention the Green Hedge problem to palmbreeze. I dont want her first planted tank experience to be like mine - horrible.

phanmc and djlen, thanks to both of you for your help and options. I would not think that a 5.5G setup would be difficult in deciding hardware - but my o my it has been hard. Apparently 5.5G dimensions are difficult to work with. :mad2: I was unaware of the small tank issue in WPG - sheesh.

Thanks again to both of you!!!!
 
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Thanks for the clarification djlen, no offense was ever taken.

Aries, when you have a high light tank you're going to see an increase in plant growth which will lead to an increase in nutrient consumption. So you'll have to dose more regularly or else you may encounter algae problems. If you keep up your dosing regime, then you won't have a problem with the higher light level.

People have tanks with more than 6wpg over their tank so if there is a thing as too much light, I don't know where that point is.
 
Completely agree with phanmc.
The rule of thumb is more light....more plants and nutrients to balance. Especially early in the process until the tank matures and begins to develop. The key word is balance. The better the balance the less issues that will develop with algae.
My plan would be to put a thin dusting of peat moss over the bottom of the clean, dry tank. Over it lay about 1/2" of good substrate (flourite or equivalent).
Extract some mulm from a dirty, but healthy filter and pour that glop (my word :)) over the 1/2" and then add in the rest of the substrate.
Fill the tank and plant it heavily. Now forget about cycling the tank. The plants will protect a fish or two as they produce natural waste etc. to the water table and the tank is well into the maturation process.

Len
 
Left C - I am trying to keep the cost down - even if they will negotiate the price, I highly doubt that they will let me have them for say $50. $130 is a bit much for me. I am aware of that calculation page - seen it referenced several times. However I am skeptical because not all the details are plotted like what type of bulb (NO, CF, VHO, MH) or lumens produced from that bulb. From what I understand CF's are more effecient (more lumens per watt) and give "more light for buck" than a NO fluorescent. Just my opinion is all based on not having all the facts.

So...I am to not cycle the tank???? It will be cycled enough with existing filter media and mulm from an esablished tank??? Dwarf puffers are VERY sensitive from what I read. I do not want to harm these guys when I get them. I have used about 1" or more of the substrate. How does 1/2" work for you?? I will be using Seachem Flourite if not mentioned that.

I am ready for the whole balance thing of nutrieants this time and I am getting better at reading warning signs from plants. All I really want is low to medium growth (like I have in my 30G). I have experienced crazy insane fast growth and I was not impressed. So much work. :rolleyes:

While I have every ones attention, will Flourish Excel suffice as a CO2 source? Or should I tap my pressurized CO2 by getting a dividing regulator (3 seperate adjustable outputs - one for 30G, one for 5.5G, one for 5.5G).

I think I will try the peat moss thing to see how that goes. This is my first venture with this - I am going to use just a small dusting.

Thanks again everyone for advice and options. This will hopefully be one great dwarf puffer biotope!!!

Aries
 
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