Light levels for Vallisneria spp.

coralnerd

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May 11, 2006
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Can anyone give a suggested light regime for a 200l (50 gal for you americans) tank planted mostly with vals? I understand that they prefer high light conditions, but I used to grow them quite successfully (to the point where they need trimming on a monthly basis) with just one 40W tube on my tank. I know that the species I am using prefer brightly lit, exposed sections of the streams they grow in, and they really only grow in strong current areas.

On a related note, is it possible to use high intensity flouro tubes in standard fluouro light fittings? Or do you need specialised fittings.
 
Which species is it? Is this for your Australian tank?

I've found that Vallisneria caulescens definitely need upwards of 2.5wpg and CO2 or they do not develop their red fan shape. They have very delicate leaves. In fact, the texture and transparency of the leaves reminds me quite a bit of monoselenium tenerum leaves.

However, Vallisneria americana var natans 'broad leaf' and jungle vals (these are the closest I can get to V. natans from Australia and PNG, do great with any kind of lighting.

Roan
 
Yep this is for the australian tank. Since I collect pretty much everything that goes in my tanks myself, including the fish and plants, I'm not 100% certain which val species I have.

One of them is a broad-leafed one, which, depending on the lighting conditions, develops very broad (20mm+) leaves, with a rusty red brown colour near the tips, and a deep green at the base. I suspect that its a local strain of V. spiralis, as it gets the long corkscrew shaped flower stems on it in summer. It produces runners with little baby plants on the ends. Unfortunately it tends to revert to a thinner leafed, greener phenotype when I transfer it to my tanks with artificial light. The dam it comes from has fairly soft, acidic water, (pH 6.4, GH 40 mg/L and KH 1-2) and I try to maintain my water at around pH 7 and KH 4, so that might also be factor in the development of the different growth form.

The other species might be V. nana. It only grows in shallow, high flow areas of the streams where I chase my fish. I haven't really tried growing it in a tank yet, so this will be a bit of an experiment. It has a big rhizome with an extensive root system that grows just below the surface of the substrate, with lots of idividual plants sprouting from the rhizome. I don't think it produces runners. It has much longer thinner leaves than the other species. The river it came from also has very soft, acidic water (pH 6.2, GH<20mg/L and KH about 1).

Maybe I'm worrying too much. Vals are about the only plants that I've had much experience with, and they seem to be petty easy to grow. I'll try them with the 40W tube on the tank (which works out to just 0.8W/gal) and see how they go. If they don't seem to be growing I'll have to invest in more lights.
 
Oh man. Lucky sot. I can't get those vals over here.

The first one you described sounds like V. natans, but let me check the list Dave Wilson of ANGFA sent me. Yes, Vallisneria natans -- very broad leafed version, looks a lot like the Vallisneria Americana v. natans, which is what mine probably are since I can't find just Vallisneria natans here. Personally I think they are the same bloody plant. Mine go red on the tips in enough light.

I'm not sure about the other one you are describing, though. There are so many cool plants in Australia and NG that we can't get over here.

Roan
 
Roan Art said:
Oh man. Lucky sot. I can't get those vals over here.

He he. I was trying to make you jealous. Actually the range of fish and plants that I can find in this part of the country is pretty limited compared to what you can find further north. I did catch a beautiful little M. duboulayi the other day though. It was only a juvenile, but it had a deep crimson colour on its flanks. It went back in the river, but I can't wait until this tank has finished cycling so I can go and get some to put in it.

After a trip to the local lighting shop the other day I'm a bit skeptical about the '3 watts per gallon' rule. The intensity of a fluoro tube isn't only determined by its wattage. You can buy 40W tubes in a range of different intensities, as well as spectral ranges. Most plants use only part of the range of visible light (mostly the red and blue regions). This range is called the photosynthetically active radiation (PAR). So colour of your light should also have a bearing on how much PAR your plants are getting right? You could have a million watts of green light, but it wouldn't do your plants any good, because its not in the range of the spectrum that they can use.
 
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