Lighting a big tank

ROYWS3

ROYWS3

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Aug 29, 2000
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Roy
Can I get some feedback on lighting a 5 or 6 foot tank with PC. What would you guys suggest for each tank (lamp size and how many)?. I will be using pressurized CO2. The tank will be a room divider built into the wall; my wife and I are still debating the tank size and some other "trivial" decisions - furniture placement and whether we really need a tv - are sticking points. I like the idea of suspending the lights instead of using canopy. Any ideas on this as well?
Thanks,
ROY
 
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I guess you can go with suspended lighting although it's going to be more expensive, however at the same time, it might be easier to maintain your fish tank.

But I'd definitely look into canopy as well. You can probably go with 2 or 4 96W bulbs depending how deep and wide your tank is. However, either way, give it plenty of ventilation.

Just to advise you that if you decide to get a TV later on, you may want to go with the canopy route instead of suspending the lights, the lights will be too bright and will cause glare.


Originally posted by ROYWS3
Can I get some feedback on lighting a 5 or 6 foot tank with PC. What would you guys suggest for each tank (lamp size and how many)?. I will be using pressurized CO2. The tank will be a room divider built into the wall; my wife and I are still debating the tank size and some other "trivial" decisions - furniture placement and whether we really need a tv - are sticking points. I like the idea of suspending the lights instead of using canopy. Any ideas on this as well?
Thanks,
ROY
Click to expand...
 
Suspended lighting doesn't have to be more expensive... it can be cheaper. You're thinking suspended metal halide lighting, which IS expensive. With a six foot tank, you could suspend two AH Supply 2x96W bright kits, giving you in excess of 384 WPG.

One idea to cut costs is to a hybrid suspended/canopy. You have a "wall" on each side of your tank, above the tank (as opposed to resting on it.) Then the suspended lighting would be hidden "between" those walls, over the tank. "Walls" can be attached with magnetic stereo cabinet fasteners so they can easily pop off for maintenance.
 
How many gallons would the 5 or 6 foot tank hold..? Depth might matter some too.
 
I am confused - how does two each 2x96W (2x2x96=384) ever give in excess of 384WPG (watts per gallon) unless it possible to hang these over a less than one gallon tank? And would the water boil? ;)
 
I am planning on using a stock size tank. A 125 or 135 - 72x18x22 or a standard 100 - 60x18x24. so theres the width and depth for those who were interested. I wasn't sure if I should use the 4x 96(384 watts) or 4x55 or 65 (220 and 260 respectively). Don't PC's have 3x the output of standard floursencent tubes? So the old standard of 3-5 watts of standard flo. lighting for a moderate to high light tank for the 125-135 would be ~400 watts standard total/3=~135 watts PC or is my thinking skewed and I still need the 3-5 watts for moderate to high lighting regardless of the lamp being standard or PC? I'll check back later and if this explination was confusing, I'll try to be more explanitory. Thanks to all.
ROY :confused:
 
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Oops. Hey, I never claimed to be a math major!!!

Well... in excess of 384 Watts total, then. ( I say in excess because AH Supply claims that the superior quality of their MIRO reflectors gives more usable light to the plants than bulbs in other reflectors.)
 
PC fluorescents are a bit more efficient than NO fluorescents, you get a bit more light per W of power used. Electronically ballasted lower wattage(32/34 vs. 40) T8 and T5 NO tubes have output comparable to a PC, as they are higher-efficiency as well. PC tubes are effectively folded T5 tubes. If you compare intensity directly under a 55W PC w/the Miro reflector versus a NO 40W in an aquarium strip, yes the intensity will be much greater from the PC -because it is a bit higher Wattage anyway, its footprint is much smaller, it has higher efficiency to start with, and it has a great reflector.

Good reflectors can and do make a big difference. The AH supply refelectors mentined earlier do not waste a lot of light from re-strike (light from the tube hitting the reflector and bouncing back to hit the tube again = wasted), and are very highly refective and configured to redirect the light downward into the tank, so net you have little waste and scatter. Most of the light produced ends up in the tank.

You also have an effect that large tanks do not require the same intensity as small tanks. You will get the same or better growth from less input compared to 29/55 for example, and much better than compared to a 10 or smaller tanks.

But PC cannot be compared to NO by a factor such as 3x, that is not correct.

HTH
 
So is 4x 96 overkill?? Is 2x96 0r 4x55 or 65 more appropriate and enough for either the 60x18 or the 72x18. I'm getting then impression from you guys that it will be. BTW, I've heard nothing but good things about AH Supply, and am giving them serious consideration when that time comes.
Thanks,
ROY
 
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