Lighting for Small tanks (RexGrigg article)

Ajordan

Se?or Member - Get it?
Nov 21, 2006
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Massachusetts
I have seen the article on minimum lighting threshold mentioned a few times (http://www.rexgrigg.com/mlt.html) and I would like to discuss it further. I may end up posting on the message board over there but thought it could make for some interesting discussion here....

This article is hard to take in a vacuum. I don’t know the intent of the author. By that I mean I don’t know if Rex is looking to achieve the maximum growth possible or merely long term success. That being said...

My biggest hang up with the article is that it makes the many small planted aquariums I have seen seem like they could have been a figment of my imagination. It is hard to refute the success of countless aquarists over the years (even if they did choose the amount of light for their tank based on a WPG rule that is ill-conceived or flawed or just plain wrong…).

The units of light intensity throughout the article are also confusing. Lux is lumens/sq. meter. A lumen is a unit of luminous flux, not to be confused with radiant flux. The difference being that luminous flux takes into account the eye’s sensitivity to varying wavelengths of light. Radiant flux is the measure of total power of the light. (thanks to wikipedia for the differentiation). The AH Supply site that Rex used for his lumens/watt figure actually warns against using lumens to make lighting decisions for aquaria.

I have been screwing around with light intensity, distance and some other stuff in excel using a list of standard aquarium sizes and from what I can see, the intensity based on distance not being used is a big oversight. The intensity of light on an object can be described as the Intensity at the source divided by the square of the distance from the source. The good 'ol 1/R^2 relationship...

If we use his statement that a 55g with 4WPG is a standard we would find that using the AH supply Lumen information the 55g has 18,400 lumens which works out to 45,705.09 lux or 4,246 Footcandles. Using the foot candles (as the height of the tank will be in feet) I calculated the intensity at the bottom of the tank as 1,386.5 footcandles.

Now lets take a look at a 10g with 4 WPG. That works out to 40 watts which means 836.36 lumens. Footcandles are equal to lumens/sq. feet, that works out to 1672.74. Because the distance from the source to the tank floor is less than a foot we will see the intesity actually increase (based on the definition of a foot candle, this makes sense). I calculated that to be 3763.658 footcandles. If this logic makes sense, 1.5 wpg (assuming same lumens/watt ratio which isn't a good thing to assume) would give the same amount of footcandles on the bottom of the tank.

I have rambled enough for now but I wanted to explain a couple of the reasons I don't completely buy the Rex Grigg article. It has been most thought provoking though. any thoughts?
 
I've also never understood why people don't consider the depth of a tank as part of the equation. It's pretty obvious that the intensity of the same wpg in 12" of water is going to be much greater than in 30" of water to me. If you don't believe me, hold a lamp without the shade a foot away from your face and then move it 30" away. Much more intense close up isn't it.

wpg doesn't work in this scenario:

110 gallon tanks:
72x19x19
48x19x30

330 watts giving 3 wpg

Is it correct to say both tanks have the same amount of effective light? Absolutely not.

How do we overcome this flaw in the wpg thinking and provide a more reliable solution?
 
The wpg rule works well if you apply it to tanks that it was based from, standard dimension 20-100g tanks. If you have very small/large tanks or very tall/shallow tanks then it won't work out well.

People however were applying the wpg rule to 5-10g tanks and wondered why they can't grow plants, or applying it to 200g tanks and wonder why they end up with tons of algae. I think Rex is simply trying to point out that the wpg rule doesn't work on smaller tanks and is trying to find a figure that works better for them. Unfortunately he uses very high light conditions (I consider 4wpg very high light) as an example and that is causing some confusion.

The lux/lumen thing is a problem since different bulbs can have vastly different lumens rating but similar PAR readings.
 
So what is a good indication of a good bulb? I would love if there were some sort of PAR measurement on bulbs. Can you infer the PAR value from the color temperature or the little spectrum diagram on some bulbs? iDunno... Luminous efficiency?
 
Great article and I understand what rex is saying, but my question is how did he calculate his figures...there are no equations on the page nor any references...I know lots of people think highly of rex and his knowledge, but how can you explain to me that I had a beautiful 10gal tank with 3wpg and DIY CO2 and by that article i shouldnt have grown half the plants that i did bc i didnt have enough light? I guess I just have fallen into the realm of if there are no resources and if the article doesnt show their calculations then I find it hard to deem reliable and I know tat this is going to stir some people up about this.

PS here are some pics of 3wpg over a 10 gal tank

Planted_2.JPG Planted_1.JPG
 
nice looking tank!

I think every ISP should provide grains of salt when they hook up customers to the internet (to be taken when viewing pretty much the entire internet). There is a lot of good information and ideas that are shared but if taken seriously can lead to trouble (or poverty in the case of lighting fish tanks). Stating that you should have 70w over a ten gallon tank isn't wrong it just may be overkill.
 
Considering that there are people that uses 5-7wpg on larger tanks (I was one of them), 7wpg on a 10g tank isn't that extreme. It is definitely high light and not what I'd recommend to most though. And in Rex's defense, he never said you needed 7wpg for small tanks. He does compare the 7wpg over a 10g to 4wpg over 55g, which is fairly accurate.

You can't use K rating to figure PAR. Like lumens, K rating measurements are slanted towards the human eye. Luckily for those of us without PAR meters, someone tested PAR on several bulbs and found that the difference between most are marginal, within a 20% range of efficiency. So with the exception of a few, you can't really go wrong when choosing a fluorescent bulb.
 
so is Current USA Satellite Dual 48" 4 x 65 Watt Power Compact Light Strip W/2 Lunar Lights good for a 90 . thats means 4 lights givin 64 watts each ?
 
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