Lighting question for 30 gallon Planted tank

[DJDrZ]

I thought this was a useful thread on going pressurized.

 

[coach_z]

so a little browsing on CL shows this: http://smd.craigslist.org/for/2042413437.html

I wonder if this is a good regulator and how much would I save getting it for ~$50? I would still need to piece together the rest of the system.

looks like a singe stage and at that price way too expensive.

 

[coach_z]

Its like saying Cthulu... and voila here you are.

Black magic frackin' rocks!

I still dont like the way that you chose to portray me though....anyway since you dragged me into this:

Lighting:
Follow the recommendations on this page: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/lighting/105774-par-vs-distance-t5-t12-pc.html

WPG:
IMO, just dont follow it.
Scenario 1, I have 130W PC fixture above my 30 gallon tank. I have 4.33WPG.
Scenario 2, I have 48W T5HO fixuture above my 30 gallon tank. I have 1.6WPG.
Which has better more efficient lighting?
Answer, there is no clear answer until you analyze the PAR and other outputs

CO2:
Dual stage regulator > solenoid > needle valve > reactor
You don't NEED a solenoid, it is just much more convenient. You wont gas your fish if you don't have one, and you wont need to turn on /off your cylinder or anything else like that. You run your co2 at an appropriate level (actually a little on the lean side) which allows a slight build up of co2 at night but does not breach the 30ish ppm that people strive for. co2 and o2 are independent of each other.

Drop checker:
Necessary and helpful in all situations. It might not be 100% accurate but it is the cheapest alternative to the few hundred dollar co2 meters. 4dkh is a must IMO, and should be tested and changed frequently

 

[rockhoe14er]

Aquarium Design Group is the other US ADA distributor. They have some very nice tanks too: http://www.aquariumdesigngroup.com/

I could explore this site all day. I wish i could build such an amazing looking planted tank.

 

[Left C]

I ordered the 65w CF light, I will now definitely get CO2... It's like being married to the tank, it keeps suckin' the money out of you

You would be much better off investing this money in dry ferts and a pressurized CO2 system.

I mentioned the below yesterday. I would like to repeat it.

Several years ago, Rex wrote a DIY regulator thread. It is what I went by to build my first one. http://www.rexgrigg.com/regulator.htm

Darkblade48 wrote an excellent CO2 primer: http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7278-A-Primer-for-Pressurized-CO2

You have between medium and high lighting with your twin T5HO bulbs over a 24” tall aquarium. You really don’t need any more lighting. You should get your CO2 and your fert dosing going or you will have algae problems out the yingyang. Maybe a 2 to 4 bottle yeast/sugar DIY CO2 will work. Pressurized CO2 would be much better. EI dosing is a great dosing plan and it is tunable.

 

[sundragon]

I thought this was a useful thread on going pressurized.

Thanks for the link!

 

[sundragon]

looks like a singe stage and at that price way too expensive.

I need to learn a bit more, as I had no idea by looking at it.

 

[sundragon]

You would be much better off investing this money in dry ferts and a pressurized CO2 system.

I mentioned the below yesterday. I would like to repeat it.

I heard you loud and clear This one is cheaper than the one I originally bought so I'll redirect the savings into the fert and CO2.

 

[sundragon]

I still dont like the way that you chose to portray me though....anyway since you dragged me into this:

Lighting:
Follow the recommendations on this page: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/lighting/105774-par-vs-distance-t5-t12-pc.html

WPG:
IMO, just dont follow it.
Scenario 1, I have 130W PC fixture above my 30 gallon tank. I have 4.33WPG.
Scenario 2, I have 48W T5HO fixuture above my 30 gallon tank. I have 1.6WPG.
Which has better more efficient lighting?
Answer, there is no clear answer until you analyze the PAR and other outputs

CO2:
Dual stage regulator > solenoid > needle valve > reactor
You don't NEED a solenoid, it is just much more convenient. You wont gas your fish if you don't have one, and you wont need to turn on /off your cylinder or anything else like that. You run your co2 at an appropriate level (actually a little on the lean side) which allows a slight build up of co2 at night but does not breach the 30ish ppm that people strive for. co2 and o2 are independent of each other.

Drop checker:
Necessary and helpful in all situations. It might not be 100% accurate but it is the cheapest alternative to the few hundred dollar co2 meters. 4dkh is a must IMO, and should be tested and changed frequently

Awesome, I appreciate the link so essentially there's no real answer without testing. When they say PC bulbs are they talking about compact florescent bulbs used in aquarium lighting or the ones used in home?

I may decide to purchase the first CO2 pressured system because I don't feel comfortable building one from scratch. I'll take a look at http://www.rexgrigg.com/index.html because he goes through explaining what each component costs and why it's worth upgrading.

looking for a drop checker on ebay.

 

[Left C]

Awesome, I appreciate the link so essentially there's no real answer without testing. ...

You can use Hoppy's second chart in post #1 and see that you have medium to high lighting with just the 2 T5HO bulbs.