Here are the terminology you'll need in terms of lighting:
CF or PC basically stands for Power Compact Fluorescent lighting. These are the tubes that are doubled up or in the swirley shape. They offer much more intense lighting than regular fluorescents and are highly recommended for live plants.
NO fluorescent are Normal Output tubes which comes stock in most light setup. The wattage per gallon rule uses NO fluorescent as the standard for their measurement, so if you have PC, you're better off. Within NO lights, you have the T5, T8, T10, and T12 tubes. The lower the denominator, the more efficient the tube, so a T5 is more energy efficient than a T12, saving you money on your electricity bill in the long run.
Kelvin rating basically shows you the color output of a tube, the lower it is the more yellowish, the higher the whiter and bluer. This is where all the fancy lingo like "full spectrum" and "plant-gro" tubes come into play. full spectrum lighting offers a much more whitish light at 5,000k or higher. Plant-Gro lights are at the lower end but with a noticeable pinkish or purplish tint. It isn't really important unless you go very high into the blue actinic tubes, which aren't suitable for freshwater planted tanks alone. Just buy what looks nice to you.
10wpg probably won't do anything to the plants but significantly accelerate their growth, which can also significantly accelerate algae growth as well. At that high a wattage, the plants will burn through the available nutrients in the water very quickly and you'll have to do frequent fertilization.
