That makes sense! The fixture I looked at today was Coralife, dual T5. It comes with a blue light for saltwater, but I could just replace that with another bulb. It's not the high output one, it's the cheaper T5 fixture. I'm thinking that it would be fine for my needs, though, don't you think? Or am I heading in the complete wrong direction here. The lfs guy had suggested injecting CO2, but I've heard yes and no about needing to do that.
Looking for some advice, considering a planted tank
- Thread starter tbirdie
- Start date
That makes sense! The fixture I looked at today was Coralife, dual T5. It comes with a blue light for saltwater, but I could just replace that with another bulb. It's not the high output one, it's the cheaper T5 fixture. I'm thinking that it would be fine for my needs, though, don't you think? Or am I heading in the complete wrong direction here. The lfs guy had suggested injecting CO2, but I've heard yes and no about needing to do that.
This is the fixture i'm looking at, would love to hear what you think:
http://www.aquacave.com/30-aqualight-t-5-doublebr-strip-fixture-792.html
http://www.aquacave.com/30-aqualight-t-5-doublebr-strip-fixture-792.html
light looks doable.
some reading that might help... might not...
non co2... http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/433-Non-CO2-methods?highlight=light
dry start... http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/g...ion/52332-new-method-start-up-algae-free.html
some reading that might help... might not...
non co2... http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/433-Non-CO2-methods?highlight=light
dry start... http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/g...ion/52332-new-method-start-up-algae-free.html
This ^^^
Just get started with the basics, see how the plants you buy do, and take it from there.
Even if that fixture produces more light than you need, there are some advantages to double light fixtures, and there are several ways to reduce the amount of light coming out so yes I think that will work.
The arrangements of bulbs in fixtures, and the types of reflectors used does effect how much light enters the tank. When bulbs are paired next to each other (which I believe is the case of that fixture) some light is lost to "restrike", because some of the light is wasted illuminating the other bulb. High efficiency reflectors (which I'm fairly certain that one is not), are designed with either parabolic curves, or angles that reflect light around the bulb and down into the tank. Since the fixture you've chosen isn't the highest efficency in either count, you'll be reducing the amount of light going into the tank (which is good in this case).
Two bulb fixtures do allow the luxery of mixing and matching different bulb types to give you more options and customize how you like. Plants tend to utilize the light towards the far ends of the color spectrum (blue and red) more, which can make bulbs designed for plant growth dim and purple looking. Honestly I'd just look for something that has a good CRI rating (or Color Rendering Index). 90 and above makes for the most natural looking light.
Ways to reduce light intensity (if needed):
- Increase the height of the fixture over the tank. Utilize the mounting legs if you can anyway...it'll give better spread of light throughout the tank.
- Floating plants.
- Tinted film over the tank cover.
- Remove a bulb (if the fixture will work with one), or rewire to be able to switch only one on at a time.
The difficulty is that it's hard to judge how intense lighting is without a PAR meter, which isn't exactly cheap. We see the "green" part of the spectrum best, so lights that use a lot of "green" appear bright to us, while blue and red looks dim. For plants it is the opposite (well sort of, since they don't have eyes)! This is why it's hard to judge light intensity based on measurements such as "lumens" or "lux", both are based on the "green" parts of the spectrum.
Personally I'd mount the fixture, maybe throw in some floating plants, and see how things go. Dosing "liquid carbon" like Excel is always an option (but it will melt some plants like Vals).
The arrangements of bulbs in fixtures, and the types of reflectors used does effect how much light enters the tank. When bulbs are paired next to each other (which I believe is the case of that fixture) some light is lost to "restrike", because some of the light is wasted illuminating the other bulb. High efficiency reflectors (which I'm fairly certain that one is not), are designed with either parabolic curves, or angles that reflect light around the bulb and down into the tank. Since the fixture you've chosen isn't the highest efficency in either count, you'll be reducing the amount of light going into the tank (which is good in this case).
Two bulb fixtures do allow the luxery of mixing and matching different bulb types to give you more options and customize how you like. Plants tend to utilize the light towards the far ends of the color spectrum (blue and red) more, which can make bulbs designed for plant growth dim and purple looking. Honestly I'd just look for something that has a good CRI rating (or Color Rendering Index). 90 and above makes for the most natural looking light.
Ways to reduce light intensity (if needed):
- Increase the height of the fixture over the tank. Utilize the mounting legs if you can anyway...it'll give better spread of light throughout the tank.
- Floating plants.
- Tinted film over the tank cover.
- Remove a bulb (if the fixture will work with one), or rewire to be able to switch only one on at a time.
The difficulty is that it's hard to judge how intense lighting is without a PAR meter, which isn't exactly cheap. We see the "green" part of the spectrum best, so lights that use a lot of "green" appear bright to us, while blue and red looks dim. For plants it is the opposite (well sort of, since they don't have eyes)! This is why it's hard to judge light intensity based on measurements such as "lumens" or "lux", both are based on the "green" parts of the spectrum.
Personally I'd mount the fixture, maybe throw in some floating plants, and see how things go. Dosing "liquid carbon" like Excel is always an option (but it will melt some plants like Vals).
Glad I could help. That pointer about the glass thickness is just one of many things I've learned here in AC.
(You measured just the way I do ... Can't see any other way to do it, lol.)Good luck with your planted tank!
You are all awesome! :headbang2:
I'm am planning on starting a low-tech planted 12g tank soon too (one more paycheque to go..), and this thread has been really helpful, thanks guys!!
I'm am planning on starting a low-tech planted 12g tank soon too (one more paycheque to go..), and this thread has been really helpful, thanks guys!!
