Mega-Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover Replaces Skimmer, Refugium, part 1-4

Now you are telling me that single sided is no good?

Correct. Some good, depending on how much you tinker, but not automatic like a two-sided waterfall. This finding was made a few months ago. To give a horizontal a chance, it needs to be like 45 degrees, and with very strong lighting. The algae islands, and the slow flow, is what kills it.
 
I had mine vertical with good flow, all the water to my sump went through the screen. that was the flow from 2 MJ1200 in a 20 gallon. It was just single sided, and I'm doubting that is an issue because it was designed as a two sided one.
 
Something went wrong somewhere. It's literally almost impossible for one not to grow in once all conditions are satisfied. Filamentous algae wouldn't be so stubborn if that weren't the case.
 
nothing was wrong with growth, the screen filled in with nicely and on a regular basis after cleanings. just didn't work for me, and I don't think its worth beating this dead horse any longer.
 
nothing was wrong with growth, the screen filled in with nicely and on a regular basis after cleanings. just didn't work for me, and I don't think its worth beating this dead horse any longer.

No problem, but you mentioned it was a "cyano farm" and "nutrient trap" before, which is a bit different from what you are saying now. I was merely trying to clear up some misunderstandings you seemed to have had, as well as some broad statements.


Markushka said:
I had an algae scrubber on my tank and I did not like it, a lot of hassle plus a nutrient trap and cyano farm
 
I stand by my statements, it was a cyano farm and every time I rinsed it the water was brown with detritus - nutrient trap. every time I cleaned it it would grow back nicely but there would still be cyano on the screen. cyano isn't totally bad, it does take up nitrates too, but i wouldn't want to encourage its growth.

can I clarify anything else?
 
I stand by my statements, it was a cyano farm and every time I rinsed it the water was brown with detritus - nutrient trap. every time I cleaned it it would grow back nicely but there would still be cyano on the screen. cyano isn't totally bad, it does take up nitrates too, but i wouldn't want to encourage its growth.

can I clarify anything else?

If the screen grew cyanobacteria, then there was something wrong with the growth on the screen. It does not grow on properly functioning screens.

Yes, filamentous algae traps detritus in any setting--that is part of its nutrient procurement. However, "nutrient trap" is not necessarily applicable in the same sense in other cases, like sponges, etc. Any breakdown is being utilized or consumed extremely quickly. It does not have a net effect on overall water quality if everything is functioning and is removed during cleanings. Again, I believe there were some initial misunderstandings.

Now, to clear myself up a bit. I started using scrubbers just over 8 months ago. By no means do I believe they are the miracle "cure-all" and I won't defend them as such. In fact, if someone simply says they don't like them, don't want to bother with the maintenance, don't like the smell when cleaning them, don't like the extra lighting/energy requirements, don't have room, etc., that is fine and I leave it at that. But when broad statements are made that unnecessarily detract from scrubbers and their use, it is necessary to clarify them. I held the exact same views that you do now just months back, without even using one. I knew of the sediment trapping properties of filamentous algae, as well as various phytocompounds that are released. After having one long enough and seeing what they are capable of, most of the reasons out there for not having one simply aren't valid (or were the result of a mistake somewhere, either in design or maintenance).

All that said, these are our individual experiences and, to some degree, our own opinions. I don't feel I was beating a dead horse at any point in time, since I didn't necessarily agree with your initial statements to begin with. I simply probed into the situation to see what went wrong and where, since that is not how scrubbers are supposed to work. At no point in time did I question your own experience with scrubbers or anything of the sort, but your experience does not necessarily qualify your initial, rather sweeping, statement, nor does it reflect the usual experience with newer scrubber designs. I was simply trying to explain that in a more subtle manner for anyone else reading the thread.

You may or may not be interested at this point, but here is my scrubber thread, which describes my setup and how I went about doing everything from design to maintenance (and even nutrient limitation and the odd results that show up when it occurs): http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217178 The design was quick and junky, but the basic requirements were met and it is/was a success.
 
So I tested my water today for nitrates and phosphates and both came back at 0. My phosphates have never been below .5 before.
The screen is just starting to grow in and is no where near established like most pics I see of them yet it seems to be working. I do have quite a bit of HA left in the DT that I'm sure is contributing to the tests as well. So take it with a grain of salt I guess. When the green subsides from my rocks and the HA is gone then I'll really have something. I upgraded my lights to full spectrum 27 watt CF bulbs today as well. Considering taking the pump that runs my sump and exchanging it for the one I have on the scrubber to increase the flow. I have to neck down the pump on my sump return because its has a larger GPH than my overflow.
My pod population seems to be growing very well in the sump. I had to empty the whole thing out about 4 weeks ago so I killed off all the pods but now this week ive noticed more pods than I've ever had before. full sized ones. I've yet to see the mass quantities of white dust sized ones that SM talks about though.
So far so good.
 
Updates:

Coral color: If you use zeo/vodka (with a skimmer) and have pale coral colors, it is not because the "nutrients are too low". It is because the FOOD is too low. The skimmer removes the food (almost all of it) that the corals need to eat. Turn the skimmer off and the colors will come back. Of course your nutrients (Inorganic Nitrate and Inorganic Phosphate) will come back too, but hopefully you now know how to fix that by now. Some people mistakenly try "adding nutrients" such as potasium nitrate, but that is the opposite of what is needed. Nutrients (Inorganic Nitrate and Inorganic Phosphate) are not needed; FOOD is needed. Eric Borneman says: "Adding potasium nitrate to a tank whose corals are losing color because of zeo/vodka dosing is the most convoluted, complex, unnatural and bizarre way to get to an end result that is so easily achieved other ways."

Screen Growth: Don't forget that the more algae you remove every week from your screen, the more nitrate and phosphate you are pulling out of your tank. Thus, the more growth, the lower your Inorganic Nitrate and Inorganic Phosphate will be in your tank, and, the more baby pods you will have in your water.

Bulbs: Importance of the light being consistant across the screen: CFL bulbs are cheap and easy, but they put all the light into one spot. So there is really no purpose in having a screen much larger than the bulb:

CFLgrowth.jpg
 
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