Mega-Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover Replaces Skimmer, Refugium, part 1-4

With my other CFL bulbs in that have the twil bulb inside of a reflective casing my growth actually looked exactly opposite of that picture. Nearly all of my growth is on the outside of the main light area. it was redish and is now turning green. I did notice a significant difference in just 24 hours since I put the new full spectrum 27 watt bulbs in there. perhaps the 2700 is just too low? I dunno.
SM, why do you suppose that I'm getting better growth arond the endges than in the center? This is the same on both sides. The lights are about 2" from the screen
 
Too much light for the amount of flow you have. Reduce the hours, or pull the bulb back, or increase flow. This is another reason why CFL's are difficult... they cook the middle.
 
So I tested my water today for nitrates and phosphates and both came back at 0. My phosphates have never been below .5 before.
The screen is just starting to grow in and is no where near established like most pics I see of them yet it seems to be working. I do have quite a bit of HA left in the DT that I'm sure is contributing to the tests as well. So take it with a grain of salt I guess. When the green subsides from my rocks and the HA is gone then I'll really have something. I upgraded my lights to full spectrum 27 watt CF bulbs today as well. Considering taking the pump that runs my sump and exchanging it for the one I have on the scrubber to increase the flow. I have to neck down the pump on my sump return because its has a larger GPH than my overflow.
My pod population seems to be growing very well in the sump. I had to empty the whole thing out about 4 weeks ago so I killed off all the pods but now this week ive noticed more pods than I've ever had before. full sized ones. I've yet to see the mass quantities of white dust sized ones that SM talks about though.
So far so good.


thank you for the update!!!:dance2:
 
So if I increase the flow I will grow more faster than if I use what I have and pull the bulbs back a little im assuming?
 
Wow....I'm so intrigued by this method. I am thinking of building a turf scrubber for my 75-gallon.

My only question is....what would the suggested route go as far as building a unit that does not need to be above the tank so the filtered water can drain into the main tank? I do not have a sump and I don't exactly think that a sheet of algae sitting above my tank is exactly attractive.

Could I possibly do a bucket version with a return pump into the main tank?
 
you can do it however you want. SM's original design was in a bucket with two lights in there and the screen running right down the middle.
You just need a way to get the water to the bucket/tank and then a way to get it out of the bucket and back into the display tank.
Most that Ive seen have used thier overflow to either power the whole unit or get the water down to a sump/bucket and then a pump to get the water back up to the tank. SM suggests having the tank above your display tank so that the pods don't have to go through any pumps or anything to get back into the tank. So if the tank is above then the overflow goes on the tank above and the pump would be in your display tank instead.
 
dv8: yes.

fessler: Just make the bucket your sump:


OverflowFeed.jpg

SumpFeed.jpg
 
Scrubbers and Cycling

Although it was not an original benefit, enough people have now cycled there tanks using only a scrubber that it is now the recommended way. This means no skimmer, and no waterchanges. What generally happens is that you don't get a "cycle" at all, and you can add livestock in just a few days, after double and triple checking to make sure there is zero ammonia and nitrite.

Cycling your tank has the purpose of letting the dead stuff "get out" of the rock. This stuff died because the rock was out of the water for too long during shipping, and is now forming ammonia. Well, the favorite food of algae is ammonia, and next comes nitrite, and then nitrate. So since the ammonia will be kept low during cycling, more of the natural inhabitants in the rock will survive because they are not being poisoned. Also, this extra time that the scrubber gets to develop during the cycling will allow the screen to be more ready for when you start stocking. You can then start feeding your tank heavier, sooner, since the algae will already be available to absorb a lot of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and phosphate. Growth on the screen, however, will be limited until you start feeding, because there is just not that much to filter during cycling, since a lot of the ammonia etc that develops during cycling is actually from animals that die during the cycling itself (because of high ammonia) and not from the shipping. So after you stock and start feeding, the screen will have much more growth. Usually takes just a few days to get all zero readings.

And you don't need to add anything to get a cycle going, either. Matter of fact, you don't want a cycle at all. A real "cycle" (meaning high ammonia readings) kills the things that were living in the "live" rock. The best situation would be to get a rock from the ocean and put it in your tank in 5 minutes. Everything would still be alive, and there would be no cycle at all. But the shipping process kills a lot, and when the dead stuff gets in your water, you get your cycle. So you certainly don't want to make more ammonia by adding anything to make it worse. Just let the scrubber eat the resulting ammonia, so that the water does not get any worse. A skimmer, amazingly, actually does more harm than good, because not only does it not remove any ammonia (which is what is killing the few things still living), it removes the living critters as they get out of the rock and start swimming around, before they can get back into the rock to hide.
 
SM, would I be correct in assuming that you would need an established screen to pull that off? So you'd need to buy an inland screen or use one off of one of your other systems?
 
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