Moving my canister filters to a central location

wrek

AC Members
Dec 20, 2010
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I'm thinking about moving my filters to a central location or creating a central sump for all of my tanks. I'm looking at this pump to return the water
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_7738_7738

Seems for $50 I can return water to my 2 main tanks from 10 feet below quite easily. Cast iron though... is that a problem?
Are there other alternatives?
 
That pump is a high pressure low volume configuration. It is designed to give you 110 feet of TDH which is far more than you need or even want in an aquarium arrangement. With that much head you can quickly tear apart almost any aquarium arrangement that we might use, it would even blow the end off a nice spray bar. If I wanted something to pump water to a pressure tank for my home, I would be very tempted to use it but not on any aquarium. You want a pump that will only develop maybe 15 feet of head but give you the desired volume. That way you could actually pipe it up to a tank and expect to be able to do things like control the water flow.
 
I think a rheostat to drop the rpm of the pump might work.. don't see why not? This way I can be sure to get it 15 feet up.
 
Better be careful if the application is not compatible. I diden't see anything about be safe for potable water encase it spits out lubricant inti the water. The manual talks about being alert during operation with proactive shielding in place, and shutting down the pump every hour, and that if it runs dry or loses prime will burn up fast. I bet its a noisy beast.. I would go with a powerful submersible or in-line pond or pool pump specifically designed for the application.
 
There is a reason that is a cheap pump. It's a cheaply made pump.
If you should purchase it, get two. You'll need the second.
One simple issue is that the impeller or pumping mechanism is directly coupled to the motor. One piece of gravel that binds the impeller and pump is toast. Possibly litterally burned up toast. At best the impeller will break free of the motor shaft.

You want a decent, magnetic drive aquatic pump that has no metal in the water path. It will cost more, but you can spend less than $100 and not have to have a spare on hand. For your described needs, two large power heads would work well and not rely on complex plumbing and valve assemblies.
 
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