Yes, I'd skip the crushed coral and go for the sand. Typically I'd suggest not buying live sand and instead buying live rock and allowing it to seed the aragonite. You could try it in reverse but it isn't going to work fast. Not that anything in thie hobby works fast of course. If you're open to adding new live rock and mixing it between your brother's rock that would be even better.
Are the coral pieces you cleaned coral skeletons? Or are they fake coral your brother bought? If they are coral skeletons they aren't going to be super beneficial to the tank although you might want to use some as bracnhes in your rock for coralline (the hard purple algae) to grow on. Just a thought, but you might want to find another way to keep the skeltons, maybe as decoration in a basket or under glass?
I'm shocked your brother kept all that stock successfully. Typically the lion fish would have had made a quick meal of the shrimp. Sea apples are gorgeous, but be careful they can quickly crash a tank.
On the equipment you said you had I'll make a few suggestions but I'm a newbie myself so weigh in the advice of others too please.
2 Magnum 350 Pro canister filters with Biowheel Good
2 300w heaters Good
Coralife Super Skimmer I've heard is it OK, not great, but OK
2 Maxi-Jet 1200 powerheads
You're going to want an upgrade. The MJs have a very narrow stream of flow. I currently have 2 MJ1200s in my 55 and it isn't enough. A good midline upgrade are the new Koralia powerheads and the Seio powerheads. Better flow distribution. About 10x turnover is what you want in your FOWLER. You'll want more if you go reef down the road. You can mod the MJs and can find posts on that on the net but I've not done it.
New 72" 4x96 Coralife light fixture That will be fine for FOWLER. If you decide to keep things like corals, clams or anemones later you'll need to upgrade then.
New Perfecto stand (looks a little dainty to me....) The one in the blue room? (pertty color by the way) looks like your typical aquarium stand. Just make sure it is level and you're good to go.
Some other things to get if you don't already have them:
test kits, I'd get either Seifert or API brand
refractometer to measure specific gravity (SG) for salt, swing arm hydrometer is OK just not very accurate. I still have the hydrometer but will be upgrading to the refractometer shortly.
RO/DI unit. Tap water is a plague to many systems. Some people get away with it, some don't. If you dare to risk it you'll want to test for copper and phosphates. Also know you may be getting algae blooms with it's use. There are many good RO/DI units out there. The one I got was highly recommended and is
http://www.airwaterice.com/product/1TYPHOONIII
A quarantine tank (QT). Learn the lesson I didn't until I had a problem. QT all your livestock before you introduce it into your main display. You'll prevent introducing disease, have an easier time treating anything that comes up and also help introduce your new stock to the foods you want it to eat. QT tanks area easy to set up and I can help with that if you want.
There are lots of other optional things like sumps, etc. but the above will get you going. Be sure to read up on how to cycle a tank (you don't want to put any fish or inverts in the tank until it is cycled) and do consider joining your local reef club. They are FANTASTIC sources of local advice and bargins on equipment and livestock.