My DIY CO2 went live today.
- Thread starter DJDrZ
- Start date
We are essentially both right on this. As Chrisinator stated it is really about the ratios of yeast to sugar to water.
The rapidrise yeast has more 'live' yeast cells. With a higher% of active yeast cells by weight you require less of it to obtain the same amount of CO2 generation as the normal yeast.
If you were to use the same amount of rapidrise yeast as normal yeast, the rapidrise one would stop generating CO2 sooner because more alcohol is produced at a faster rate thus killing all the yeast. This can obviously be adjusted by decreasing the amount of yeast used to maximize the lifetime of the mixture. But a 1:1 comparison of the two brands would have the rapid rise yeast burning out before the normal yeast.
I have checked connections, i.e. did I put the check valves on wrong, and that is not the case. I am resilicon-ing the bubble counter inside and out. Hopefully that works.
do you own a drill? if so i'd say forget the silicone. trying to seal this kind of connection is too much trouble to make it worth it, imo... especially since you're depending on all those connections. too many fail points! get yourself a 3/32" drill bit and drill all your holes with that. cut angles in the ends of your hoses that go to the bottles (not where your check valves go obviously). feed your angled hoses into the lids and pull them through with some pliers. no silicone needed and the only way to fail really is to wiggle your drill too much. shouldn't be too hard to avoid.
I drilled the holes going in...but at 1/4", didn't angle the cut. Here is what the top of the thing looks like now...I have the output from the bubbler going into a glass of water...if I don't see bubbles there it is time to junk the whole bubbler and start it over, doing what you said.
When I checked the tube this morning, just in a little glass, there was a bubble, about every 5 seconds, but the three feeder lines into the counter were doing collectively 4-5 bps. So, my guess is the bubble counter is still leaking. I may just buy a manifold and the hagen counter/diffuser. Any thoughts folks?
I agree about the idea of submersing the bubble counter in water, see if you can identify a leak that way.
Dundadundun's advice about hole size and tube cutting is good, although I do that same thing but then also add silicone. I find it's a lot easier to silicone those connections by putting the silicone on something else and then using a small stick, like a toothpick, so apply it to the connections.
Dundadundun's advice about hole size and tube cutting is good, although I do that same thing but then also add silicone. I find it's a lot easier to silicone those connections by putting the silicone on something else and then using a small stick, like a toothpick, so apply it to the connections.
