I can give you some ideas/basics but just know that you may need to modify some things based on the livestock you actually want to keep.
1. Liverock - This is probably the single most important thing to get started on the right foot. The amount you need depends on the bioload you intend to have. Fish contribute the most to bioload while inverts (corals, shrimp, crabs, snails, etc) don't contribute as much. Don't fill your tank from end to end, top to bottom with LR. Create the aquascape you want and stock accordingly. You can always add more LR (or base rock) later if you want/need it as long as you add it slowly. Base rock is live rock that has been dried out or has been mined from ancient reefs and will save you $$$. All you need is a few pieces of well cured LR to "seed" the base rock and it will become live. LR usually runs about $7+/pound while some really nice base rock can be had for about $2/pound. Checkout reefcleaners.com or bulkreefsupply.com to get an idea of what I mean by base rock. This tank is about 60 gallons. I would get about 10 lbs of LR and about 25-30 lbs of base rock. Keep in mind that water weight will make a big difference in the amount of rock you will get (i.e., the 10 lbs of LR will not be as much as you think). Your tank will cycle quicker if you buy all LR but the base rock will seed pretty quick and you will reduce the chances of getting some bad hitch hikers in your tank.
2. Sand - As with the rock you do not have to buy live sand. The pieces of LR will also seed you sandbed. This will save a little more $$$ but again will increase the time it takes your tank to cycle. I would get about 40-50 pounds of sand. You could get 20 pounds of live sand and the rest being dry. You don't have to have sand at all. Some like a bare bottom tank (not me). Do NOT buy crushed coral for your bed!!! Buy some nice sugar sand or slightly larger grain (mix it if you want) and it should be argonite sand. Also, either go shallow (1.5 - 2 inches) or deep (6+ inches). Depths of sand in between will cause you problems as well.
3. Lighting - Don't skimp here! Get a nice 4 bulb (or maybe even a 6 with the height of your tank) T5HO or metal halide fixture. I would avoid power compact lighting. I personally like T5's because you can change the bulb configuration and color but halides give a nice shimmer effect. You can also buy combo fixtures that have both T5 and halides together. Checkout lighting buy Current (I have a Sundial that I really like), Tek (Sunlight Systems), ATI and others. You can get an idea of prices by looking at sites like petmountain.com (best prices IMO and usually free shipping). A quality T5 fixture will grow most everything except some more demanding SPS while a good halide will grow anything (too much light can be bad in some cases though).
4. Flow - Your probably going to want 2 to 3 powerheads or something like a Vortech MP20 or 40 (these are pricey but worth it). If you go with multiple powerheads look into Koralias. These provide a nice wide flow pattern. Probably want K2 and a K3 model but maybe two K3's. Flow needs are different for certain corals and the amount of rock you have will also affect the flow pattern. You want good flow to prevent wastes from settling (dead spots) and to transport nutrients.
5. Filtration - You actually don't need anything other than your rock and flow but most want some kind of mechanical filtartion. You can use a simple hang on back power filter (recommend Aquaclear 110), a HOB protein skimmer, canister filter (I wouldn't though) or you can add a sump. Sumps are great because it gives you extra water volume and a place to hide your equipment (heater, skimmer, etc.). The drawback of a sump is you either need to drill your tank or use an overflow box. Do NOT drill your tank if the bottom pane is tempered! A glass shop can do this for you if you don;t want to. You would need an internal overflow installed as well. Lastly Google "refugiums" and see how macro algaes are used as filtration (nutrient export).
Important:
-Do not rush things. Even with good LR and sand, it can take several weeks for a tank to cycle enough to add livestock and even then ADD IT SLOWLY. Buy a good test kit and use it (ammonia, nitrite, nitrates, calcium, alkalinity, pH).
-Buy quality salt mix and mix your own water using reverse osmosis water (RO/DI). Highly recommend you avoid using tap water!
- Research something before you buy it. Most fish stores will sell you something that you can't or shouldn't keep. Use sites like this and other to ask questions.
- Establish a regular water change routine/schedule and stick with it.
I could go on and on (obvioulsy) but you're just going to have to experience things on your own to get a feel. Keep researching, it will all make sense soon. Good luck!
