Hiyas all. I came out to visit my dad, and found his aquariums in horrible shape. He has a 45 gal saltwater take with 2 clowns and some other fish in it. It is completely over run by some long greenish/brown algae. They really don't have a filter on it. They aren't using RO water. They don't have any type of hydrometer for mixing the saltwater. THey aren't even turning on the lights for the tank. They now want me to help them clean up the tank, but I only have experience with brackish and freshwater tanks. I have a little bit of saltwater knowledge, but not alot. I know in the bestest circumstances I would take the fish back and recycle the tank, but they swear they can't take the fish back. I somehow need to get this tank on track with fish already in it. Can someone give me a crash course in saltwater?? Am I right in thinking that they need live rock? What do you use as a filter?? Wet/dry sump (no idea what that is or how it works)? Protien skimmer (don't know what this thing does)? They want me to go out and buy what they need to get this all on track, so I need to know what exactly they will need.
Need major help
- Thread starter Luvbugz
- Start date
you can use a cannister filter recommended for that size tank. don't worry about the fancy (essential)stuff yet like a sump, protein skimmer, you will need to get a hydrometer to check salt water is adequate, get live rock and ask if it is already cycled, you can use a product to help remove the nitrites out of the water such as prime but this will lower the oxygen even more in the water (saltwater has less oxygen anyway), use stresszyme or similar to help the biological filter setup and keep changing water. you will need a saltwater test kit for ph,ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, just follow instructions. clean the algae and hope for the best. if their still alive at the moment then nothing you do will make them worse. expect die off from the rock but its the ammonia that will kill your fish hence the test kit and water change, but the stresszyme will help speed up the cycle. I'm sure there's more but basics for emergencies. lower the temperature to help the fish with the stress and do some fast homework on the fish he has in there such as do they like to hide (help with stress), and minimum temp requirements for disease control too, most things will reproduce in warmer water.
First off, if the tank is not drilled or "reef ready" with an overflow, don't even worry about a wet/dry or sump. I would leave the live rock out for now. If there is none in there right now, no sense starting a new cycle.
What I would: Get a cannister filter rated for the tank and clean out, as best you can, the algae. You want to see what you're dealing with.
Get some sw aquarium tests and check parameters. Get a hydrometer to test salinity. You can get a simple plastic needle one for about 10 bucks (if that). Mix up a batch of ssw and do a water change. Nothing drastic. Mayb 10 percent.
Learn everything you can about what you're dealing with first before dumping a bunch of chemicals.
And take everything slowly. If the fish lived this long in those conditions, they can probably survive a bit longer as you slowly bring things up to par.
IMHO
What I would: Get a cannister filter rated for the tank and clean out, as best you can, the algae. You want to see what you're dealing with.
Get some sw aquarium tests and check parameters. Get a hydrometer to test salinity. You can get a simple plastic needle one for about 10 bucks (if that). Mix up a batch of ssw and do a water change. Nothing drastic. Mayb 10 percent.
Learn everything you can about what you're dealing with first before dumping a bunch of chemicals.
And take everything slowly. If the fish lived this long in those conditions, they can probably survive a bit longer as you slowly bring things up to par.
IMHO
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There is not a whole lot of difference between FW and SW tanks, other than saltwater. 
Just like FW tanks, you want no ammonia or nitrites and low nitrates. PH should be around 8.0 to 8.2/4. Salinity should be between 1.020 and 1.025. When you mix salt, it's about 2 1/2 cups of salt to a 5g bucket. If you have one, use a power head to mix the salt for a bit. If not, just stick your hand in there and mix it up.
RO water is not absolutely necessary, just make sure you condition the water. I know there are some conditioners out there that supposedly take all the bad stuff (am, trites, cholrine, cholramine) out of tap water.
If you're dad is serious about taking care of this tank, you will want to get a skimmer. Make sure to get a quality one because you get what you pay for. You probably need a hang on back model. Look into AquaC Remora Pro. Simple to install and simple to use.
Like I said in previous post, stay calm, go slowly and keep an eye on things. Don't rush out and buy a bunch of stuff only to have fish die and your dad give up on the tank.
Just like FW tanks, you want no ammonia or nitrites and low nitrates. PH should be around 8.0 to 8.2/4. Salinity should be between 1.020 and 1.025. When you mix salt, it's about 2 1/2 cups of salt to a 5g bucket. If you have one, use a power head to mix the salt for a bit. If not, just stick your hand in there and mix it up.
RO water is not absolutely necessary, just make sure you condition the water. I know there are some conditioners out there that supposedly take all the bad stuff (am, trites, cholrine, cholramine) out of tap water.
If you're dad is serious about taking care of this tank, you will want to get a skimmer. Make sure to get a quality one because you get what you pay for. You probably need a hang on back model. Look into AquaC Remora Pro. Simple to install and simple to use.
Like I said in previous post, stay calm, go slowly and keep an eye on things. Don't rush out and buy a bunch of stuff only to have fish die and your dad give up on the tank.
since they dont have a wet dry or other bio dedicated filter i reccomend looking for something called a fluidized bed filter
its cheap, small easy to install and effective bio filtration in addition to the canister
i reccomend you buy one set it up and then take it back when you decide to go advansed with the filtration
its cheap, small easy to install and effective bio filtration in addition to the canister
i reccomend you buy one set it up and then take it back when you decide to go advansed with the filtration
Can you post some oics of the tank? If there is no live rock in the tank, what excatly is in there (fake plants, etc?). Is there any sand or other substrate in the tank?
The first thing I would do is buy a hydrometer to determine the tanks current specific gravity and ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate and pH test kits (or at least take a sample of the water to your LFS and have them test). Once you determine the SG, buy RO/DI water and mix up a batch of freshly mixed SW to do a 10-20% water change. It would be best to mix this with a small pump for at least a few hours (overnight would be bettter). You want the temp, pH and SG to match your tank water. As mentioned the SG should be between 1.020 and 1.025 but again you want your new water to pretty much match your tank's water. IF the current water is above or below this range DO NOT try and adjust it too much at once. Example: If your SG is say 1.030, mix your new water somewhere around 1.028 and test your SG after the WC. If its still high, plan on another WC in a few days with a slightly lower SG.
Its actually a good thing that there is no LR in the tank at the moment. Chances are the LR would have absorbed contaminants/nutrients that would continue to leach into the tank for a while.
Short term purchase list (IMO, based on what I know)
-Hydrometer or refractomer (the later being more accurate but might have to order and more $$$)
-Test kits
-RO/DI water (clean buckets, mixing pump & heater too unless you have them)
-Something to move water in the tank. HOB filter such as an Aquaclear 70 or 110 (don't recommend "biowheels") . I would not buy a canister filter. The HOB filter will serve the same function and is easier to maintain (sounds like that might be a plus for your Dad). If you can swing it buy at least one powerhead (something like a Koralia 2 would be good).
-Although I would not recommend any type of chemical additives at this point, I would highly recommend adding a larger bag of Chemipure Elite to place into the HOB filter. It's a filter media that will help clarify the water and will also reduce/remove ammonia, nitrates, phosphates, etc.
Long term
-Live rock
-Possibly a protein skimmer but if they are only going to have the 2 clowns, weekly WCs of 10-20% will be sufficient. A skimmer will help keep the tank stable though if you feel weekly WC's aren't going to happen. Note that the skimmer will need to be cleaned frequently as well.
-Might need to replace the substrate (depending on what's in there now and the the condition its in). Aragonite sand is best (does not have to be "live" sand) if you are adding LR.
Hope this helps.
The first thing I would do is buy a hydrometer to determine the tanks current specific gravity and ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate and pH test kits (or at least take a sample of the water to your LFS and have them test). Once you determine the SG, buy RO/DI water and mix up a batch of freshly mixed SW to do a 10-20% water change. It would be best to mix this with a small pump for at least a few hours (overnight would be bettter). You want the temp, pH and SG to match your tank water. As mentioned the SG should be between 1.020 and 1.025 but again you want your new water to pretty much match your tank's water. IF the current water is above or below this range DO NOT try and adjust it too much at once. Example: If your SG is say 1.030, mix your new water somewhere around 1.028 and test your SG after the WC. If its still high, plan on another WC in a few days with a slightly lower SG.
Its actually a good thing that there is no LR in the tank at the moment. Chances are the LR would have absorbed contaminants/nutrients that would continue to leach into the tank for a while.
Short term purchase list (IMO, based on what I know)
-Hydrometer or refractomer (the later being more accurate but might have to order and more $$$)
-Test kits
-RO/DI water (clean buckets, mixing pump & heater too unless you have them)
-Something to move water in the tank. HOB filter such as an Aquaclear 70 or 110 (don't recommend "biowheels") . I would not buy a canister filter. The HOB filter will serve the same function and is easier to maintain (sounds like that might be a plus for your Dad). If you can swing it buy at least one powerhead (something like a Koralia 2 would be good).
-Although I would not recommend any type of chemical additives at this point, I would highly recommend adding a larger bag of Chemipure Elite to place into the HOB filter. It's a filter media that will help clarify the water and will also reduce/remove ammonia, nitrates, phosphates, etc.
Long term
-Live rock
-Possibly a protein skimmer but if they are only going to have the 2 clowns, weekly WCs of 10-20% will be sufficient. A skimmer will help keep the tank stable though if you feel weekly WC's aren't going to happen. Note that the skimmer will need to be cleaned frequently as well.
-Might need to replace the substrate (depending on what's in there now and the the condition its in). Aragonite sand is best (does not have to be "live" sand) if you are adding LR.
Hope this helps.
This helps tremdously! They have what appears to be live rock in the tank, but I am unsure how "live" it is since the lights haven't been on in the tank since I have been here (5 days). What I think they were going for was a FOWLR tank.Can't get any pics because I am not on my own puter 
They do have a nice power compact with moonlights. Should I start taking out the rock and scrubbing the algae off of it? Same with the walls?? The substrate looks terrible. I would like to change that as well. I just don't wanna do to much, because obviously the fish are used to these conditions and I don't wanna shock them. Going to get a HOB filter, test kit, hydrometer, and a couple of powerheads today as well. Will look for a protien skimmer as well. I have one other question: What should clownfish and a (sorry for my lack of salty iding skills) black and white striped fish with a yellow tail be eating?? They are currently feeding them Formula One Marine Pellets, but there has to be something out there that is better for them.
They do have a nice power compact with moonlights. Should I start taking out the rock and scrubbing the algae off of it? Same with the walls?? The substrate looks terrible. I would like to change that as well. I just don't wanna do to much, because obviously the fish are used to these conditions and I don't wanna shock them. Going to get a HOB filter, test kit, hydrometer, and a couple of powerheads today as well. Will look for a protien skimmer as well. I have one other question: What should clownfish and a (sorry for my lack of salty iding skills) black and white striped fish with a yellow tail be eating?? They are currently feeding them Formula One Marine Pellets, but there has to be something out there that is better for them.The black and white fish you describe: Could be a black clown fish or possible a 3-stripe damsel? Not sure without a pic. Formula One is a good food, though. If they've gone this long with it, continue with it until it's gone and/or until you get the tank all cleaned up.
If you go with a HOB filter, you might want to have some extra filter floss on hand because if the tank is very dirty, that floss will get filled up in a hurry.
You won't need any buffer for the water if using RO.
I would not replace the sand at this point. That's where the good bacteria is living. Just try to scrape as much algae off as you can by hand.
Also, if there is live rock in there and you decide to clean it, do a water change first and save the old water. You can scrub/wash the rock in that water. You don't want to clear the rock in freshwater, it will kill the good stuff on it.
If while you're cleaning the algae and it's floating around the tank, I take a net and just try to strain the big pieces out.
Good luck.
If you go with a HOB filter, you might want to have some extra filter floss on hand because if the tank is very dirty, that floss will get filled up in a hurry.
You won't need any buffer for the water if using RO.
I would not replace the sand at this point. That's where the good bacteria is living. Just try to scrape as much algae off as you can by hand.
Also, if there is live rock in there and you decide to clean it, do a water change first and save the old water. You can scrub/wash the rock in that water. You don't want to clear the rock in freshwater, it will kill the good stuff on it.
If while you're cleaning the algae and it's floating around the tank, I take a net and just try to strain the big pieces out.
Good luck.
http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=30862698&listingid=76207222
Purchase this book....for one. Marine test kit. And Hydrometer to measure salinity levels.
Now remember salt doesn't evaporate with the water...so top off with clean water that is nitrate,phosphate, and metal free....most recommend RO water since most municipal water supply is horrible. Most not all....
The first thing here is you describe hair algae or cyanobacteria ....without pics we can't tell. Turn on the lights....is it dark blood red with bubbles and spaghetti strands...or like a bad green afro?
First things first. Major clean up.
You need to prepare 30 gallons of salt water or go to your local marine store and see if they sell it.
IF this is that deep marroon slimy spaghetti like algae with micro bubbles under the sheets...it is very likely cyanobacteria...do not brush it or it will spread ....siphon it all out......
IF its the green hair algae...hand pull all you can out..scrub rocks out in buckets of water you siphon out ..not tap water....use the water you pulled out to clean rocks...scrub all you can off.
Be very sure you have the temperature of the new 30g as same as the tank also before you begin.
You need a huge water change first off....
To maintain this tank from here on out. They don't have to purchase HOB skimmer at this time.. And I never recommend canister filters ever to anyone in this hobby. They trap detritus material...which in turn does not get pulled out of the water by skimmer or water changes.. It acts as a factory for nutrient import into your tank. That is not something I ever would recommend to marine. We have to keep our nitrate levels much lower vs FW......we also have to keep phosphates at 0 if we can. Mostly reefers do this..>FOWLR is more forgiving....I see why people may say get a canister. I Say Do NOT.
Your best filter at this time is good maintenance. Weekly water changes...Since you don't skimm ...Your best bet is to do 10g-20g water changes weekly. Watch those test results before and after changes. This will give you an idea if your changes impacted them enough.
40g isnt huge tank...and most nano tanks do well with simple big water changes.
IF you decide canister filter...at the least pull out all media...and replace with crushed live rock. About the size of plumbs and apricots. At the very least it will have both bacteria needed in the breakdown process. And weekly clean that out by dumping the water inside into buckets and releasing any trapped detritus. (i still don't recommend this item)
Good luck....do use a cell phone and take pics....and try to get the up here for us......we can further advise with better information.
PS: Something I didn't know vs FW Fish. Marine fish drink their water vs FW....FW fish pass it through....I learned this from that book. So having a more pristine environment for Marine fish is best since you dont want Mr.Fish drinking his own poo... =p
Purchase this book....for one. Marine test kit. And Hydrometer to measure salinity levels.
Now remember salt doesn't evaporate with the water...so top off with clean water that is nitrate,phosphate, and metal free....most recommend RO water since most municipal water supply is horrible. Most not all....
The first thing here is you describe hair algae or cyanobacteria ....without pics we can't tell. Turn on the lights....is it dark blood red with bubbles and spaghetti strands...or like a bad green afro?
First things first. Major clean up.
You need to prepare 30 gallons of salt water or go to your local marine store and see if they sell it.
IF this is that deep marroon slimy spaghetti like algae with micro bubbles under the sheets...it is very likely cyanobacteria...do not brush it or it will spread ....siphon it all out......
IF its the green hair algae...hand pull all you can out..scrub rocks out in buckets of water you siphon out ..not tap water....use the water you pulled out to clean rocks...scrub all you can off.
Be very sure you have the temperature of the new 30g as same as the tank also before you begin.
You need a huge water change first off....
To maintain this tank from here on out. They don't have to purchase HOB skimmer at this time.. And I never recommend canister filters ever to anyone in this hobby. They trap detritus material...which in turn does not get pulled out of the water by skimmer or water changes.. It acts as a factory for nutrient import into your tank. That is not something I ever would recommend to marine. We have to keep our nitrate levels much lower vs FW......we also have to keep phosphates at 0 if we can. Mostly reefers do this..>FOWLR is more forgiving....I see why people may say get a canister. I Say Do NOT.
Your best filter at this time is good maintenance. Weekly water changes...Since you don't skimm ...Your best bet is to do 10g-20g water changes weekly. Watch those test results before and after changes. This will give you an idea if your changes impacted them enough.
40g isnt huge tank...and most nano tanks do well with simple big water changes.
IF you decide canister filter...at the least pull out all media...and replace with crushed live rock. About the size of plumbs and apricots. At the very least it will have both bacteria needed in the breakdown process. And weekly clean that out by dumping the water inside into buckets and releasing any trapped detritus. (i still don't recommend this item)
Good luck....do use a cell phone and take pics....and try to get the up here for us......we can further advise with better information.
PS: Something I didn't know vs FW Fish. Marine fish drink their water vs FW....FW fish pass it through....I learned this from that book. So having a more pristine environment for Marine fish is best since you dont want Mr.Fish drinking his own poo... =p
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