neon tetra with light orange dust spot

cawaltons

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Jan 8, 2005
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4j280y


Just did a water change yesterday and this morning noticed some light orange dust on the tail of one of the neons. This looks a lot like something I saw in the middle of one of the neons in February when I first got them. At the time, I was concerned about two other fish and so treated the whole tank with Jungle Fungus Clear (contains Nitrofurazone, Furazolidone
and potassium dichromate). This cleared up the light orange dust overnight.

I never figured out what the orange dust was and now it seems to be back. Can anyone identify it from my bad photos?

4j27w1


I was thinking about taking the affected neon out of the tank and putting him in another little tank and treating him with the Fungus Clear again. The problem is that I don't have a heated hospital tank. The water in my betta bowl is about 70 degrees F. Would the neon put up with such cold water?

What about giving the neon a medicinal bath? I was thinking about giving him a salt bath but they don't like salt, right?

Thanks for your help!

23 gallon tank:
11 Neon Tetras
1 Bushy Nose Pleco
2 African Dwarf Frogs
1 Powder Blue Dwarf Gourami
 
The neon would NOT like the cold temps, so it's good that you're keen on that. Sounds to me like Velvet. I'd remove the frogs (until treatment is over plus 3 weeks to quaranteen them so you don't reintroduce the pathogen into the tank.... no heater needed for frogs).

Treat the tank with Acriflavin. It will stain the water kinda pee-yellow. It was used as a cloth dye for a long time, I'm not sure how they figured out it was a good medicine for fish. Pick up some Acriflavin and follow the instructions. This should help. This is a lethal and very contagious disease/parasite for fish.
 
Acriflavin

Thanks! Good to know about the frogs.

I googled Acriflavine and found this at petsforum:
Acriflavine is not indicated for the treatment of fungal infections nor for the control of flukes (monogenetic trematodes). While there is some evidence that Acriflavine can control trematode infections. Acriflavine is not indicated for the treatment of systemic bacterial infections. The recommended use of Acriflavine is for the control of Oodinium (Velvet), egg disinfection, and superficial skin infections.
The thing I am wondering about is why did the Jungle Fungus Clear clear it up last time if it was velvet (it looks the same)?

Anyway, assuming it is velvet and I treat the main tank, they gave these instructions:
Treatment for external fish parasites
(a) Transfer fish to a separate tank, if possible.
(b) Remove carbon from filters and return to use with the addition of a clean mechanical filter media.
(c) Make a partial water change of 25 to 50% if the treatment is being carried out in an established tank. Add NovAqua after replacing new water.
(d) Calculate the actual volume of water to be treated taking into consideration the displacement of water by sand, gravel, rock, etc.
(e) Add 1 teaspoon of Acriflavine (3.84% solution) per 5 to 10 gallons of water. This will produce a concentration of 10 to 5 ppm.
(f) Repeat treatment daily with a partial water change of at least 25 to 50% before re-treating. Add NovAqua after replacing new water. Add only enough Acriflavine to replace that which was removed by the water change.
(g) Upon completion of the treatment return fish to the original aquarium or pond (if treatment was done in an quarantine tank) and add PolyAqua or NovAqua. If the treatment was conducted in the original aquarium or pond, perform a partial water change of 35 to 50% and place new activated carbon into the filter.
Whew! Does that sound about right?

Thanks!
 
LFS suspects bacterial infection due to poor water

I took two of the neons to the LFS today and he said he thought it looked like a bacterial infection. He said he couldn't test my water since I put Melafix in it. He suggested 25% water changes for three days. I suppose I will give that a try since the fish don't have other symptoms of rust/velvet (no scratching, lethargy, loss of appetite, clamped fins).
 
Hi cawaltons,

Not too sure what the dust is, but you mentioned you had a small tank (cycled??) it could go in if it was heated? A small 25w heater could'nt cost much more than $15 could it? Don't know what part of the world your in so maybe it could. But I really think it would be best to quarantine the little fella if you have the oportunity. In my exp, Neons are very good at dying in packs, so I'd like to get him away from the others just in case the worst happens.
 
I have to agree that 'orange dust' really sounds like Oodinium, I'd get meds for velvet and treat ASAP. MelaFix and fungal remedies won't help (in fact, medicating can stress fish and make things worse). I'd say your LFS was right on the money suggesting daily water changes - in treating any illness, you can't really go wrong with water changes, cleaner water helps remove parasites/fungus/bacteria from the tank and allows the fish the healthiest possible environment in which to heal.
If this was my tank, I'd turn off the lights (less stress on the fish, allows them to rest and heal), do twice daily 50% water changes and treat for Oodinium.
 
Thanks!

Just read this before heading to bed, but I appreciate the advice. We've had problems with the timer for the light and so the light has been on from 7 am to about 10 pm. I will make a point to cut that down (but not completely for the sake of the plants).

Sounds like you think I should just treat the two visibly affected fish (and not the whole tank) for velvet/rust.

Fish seem stable today but I have been out most of the evening. I'll check them out closely in the morning.

I will see about getting a little heater for our little unheated tank. I hadn't realized they sold such small ones. I was looking at tank and heater packages, which seemed too expensive.

No, the little tank isn't cycled. I was going to put in gravel from the big tank on the very day I observed the orange dust. It just has a betta in it and I have been doing 100% water changes.
 
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