New 72 gallon bowfront,FOWLR.

greech: you were completely right. tested pH when i got home from work after the lights being on all day and pH was right at 8.2

How bad is an everyday swing of 7.8 in the morning to 8.2 at night?
 
Glad we were able to help. One thing I have learned is not to over react to something and start trying to manually adjust things without proper testing and research. This seems to always make things worse.
 
Thanks again guys.

Of course, i have another question.

I ordered a few test kits that were recommended to me but used a test strip that afriend gave me to hold over my curiosity as i wait. Its from a Mardel 5 in 1 test strip.
(trust me i know how many times i've heard that these are unreliable, thats why i ordered liquid) i used two strips and got the same results each time.

my results were:

pH- 8.0
total Alk - 300+ppm (Highest level is 300 on this strip)
total hardness - between 300 and 1000 ppm (strip is not very precise as the levels are 0, 25, 75, 150, 300, and the next level after 300 is 1000)

What parameters am i looking for? And are these results bad? I knew i had hard water but this seems terrible.
 
Just bought a GE Power Strip Timer

as i was setting this up for my lighting, i noticed on the back of the package it clearly states " Combined load must not exceed 15 amps or 1875 watts. Use only in dry indoor locations. Not for use with aquariums"

Hmm. Is this okay to use for the lighting only? Does it say not for use with aquariums because of the risk of getting wet?
 
davexstumpe said:
Hmm. Is this okay to use for the lighting only? Does it say not for use with aquariums because of the risk of getting wet?
Click to expand...

Most of the brands will say that. It is due to the risk of getting it wet, which ruins them outright. Just keep it plenty dry, out of the way and you should be fine.
 
Hey guys.

i just received my shipment of tests and equipment.

here are my specs let me know what i need to add or whatnot.

pH - 8.2
calcium - 480
alkalinity - 12
phosphates - .5 (very hard to read. not quite 0, not .25, closest to .5)
Temp 77 F

only supplements i've added are iodide and strontium & molybdenum


I have about 20 gallons of RO water i mixed with salt that i plan on water changing with that will do a job on the phosphates. But how bad is .5 phosphates in a saltwater tank?


Also. im having a HUGE problem with the koralia pump. i just bought the new model thats 1050 gph flow and have a koralia 3 850 gph. no matter where i put the older model koralia 3 it disturbs EVERY coral in the tank. i put it towards the bottom facing up and it blows the torch and daisy polyps like crazy. i put it on top facing forward or back and the sand blows everywhere. what can i do to correct this? i dont understand it because i put the newer stronger model in the same spot where the older model was and the corals look about 100x better and it only took about 10 min. what should i try to do ?
 
What your SG? Are you using API Kits? Calcium and alk seem a little high but not crazy or anything to get worked up about. My calcium rund around 380 to 400 and my alk is routinely at about 8 dKH. I don't use any supplements at all. My weekly 10-20% WCs are enough to keep everything in check but my tank is only 45 gallons.

0.5 phospahates is something to pay attention to. You really want that number to be 0. The API phosphate kit is really hard to read and is not helpful in determining low levels. Maybe your LFS has a different kit that can get you a better "low range" reading?

As for the K3, you could try and put the fish guard on it. That should streamline the flow a little. Also, do you have your rock situated in a way to sort of obstruct the flow? One side of the K3 cover is solid. Maybe you can screw the cover on so that the solid part is towards the bottom of the pump to help with the downward flow to the sand. HTH

So are you happy with the 1050 Evo? I have been hearing good things on those. Hard to believe the K3 kicks up a sand storm and that one doesn't.
 
SG - 1.023 i knew i was forgetting somethign important.

yes im using API tests for everything.

we have very hard water over here and ive been using tap water filtered with a 2 stage pur filter. (i know this isnt the preferred method but i figured it was better than regular tap.) but i was waiting for a buddy to install his RO and he finally did last week so i already have 20 gallons ready to go. so that will be the primary water used moving forward.


i LOVE the new koralias. half the wattage of my k3 and about 300 gph more flow than it. smaller and already has the guards attatched. it's hard to believe that it doesnt kick up anything even though its stronger. i had trouble initially getting the cap of the k3 off thats why i didnt put it on bc i didnt want to break it. ill try it again tonight.


i keep promising pictures too but can find the cord to connect the camera to the computer so ill buy one of those tonight too. swear i would lose my head if it wasnt attatched. can't wait to add some of my new prized possesion (purple tang).
 
I would have thought your SG would have been closer to 1.026 with those CA and alk readings. I really think you are ok but stya on your testing and maybe get a free test from your LFS if you can just to verify. The RO will help drastically. The phosphates probably won't zero out after one WC but just keep them up. You donlt want the phosphates absorbing into your rocks so that you can a continual leaching source.

Anxious to see the tang! I so wish I had a tank big enough to keep one. Thanks for the info on the new koralias. I think I am going to get a pair of those to replace my K2's in lieu of the Tunzes I was planning on. Would love a vortech but just can't spend $300 on a PH. Thanks!
 
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