New Betta first time parent :)

Mar 9, 2007
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So I have been doing some research into owning a Betta for a few weeks now, and I have read in many places that bettas do not like bubbles or currents caused by filters. So today, I bought my crowntail betta and tank. I have purchased a 1.7 gal hexagon tank with some smooth rocks and a nice sized fake plant. I have a heater to keep the temp at about 78*. The tank came with an air pump/undergravel filter system, that I currently am not using. I am worried that my betta will not like the air pump because it causes too much disturbance in the water. I prepared my water like you're supposed to, I used the stress coat, bullseye 7.0 ph regulator, stress zyme and also aqua-sol preventative and cure for ick for new fish. Question is, Im reading on here though how many people do use filters and air pumps for their fish. My betta is the only one in the tank, and I am pretty much clueless as to wheater I should use the undergravel filter or not. Thank you, I appreciate ANY comments, suggestions, etc. as I am new to this whole betta mom thing.
 
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congradulations! i've never bred bettas, or fish for that matter but i would like to, so i can't give any suggestions yet. good luck with it!
 
oh, Im not bredding. Im the first time owner of a betta. Sorry for the miscommunication. :)First time fish owner at that, Ive been told and have read that they are good for beginners.
 
good luck in the futrure. a betta is a great fish to start in the hobby, for they are super hardy and can be "smaller tanks." some say that 2½ is a minimum while others say 5 is.

it is a myth that bettas do not like currents caused by filters or bubble made in the water. stagnant water is much worse for them for it allows the wastes inside to just make the water putrify. you should add the filter to your tank to get some water movement going.

you dont have to add the pH regulator to the water. it makes the pH fluctuate and that can severly stress the fish. most fish, especially bettas, are able to adapt to the pH of your water.

the stress zyme will do nothing if you do not add oxygen and a filter to keep the water going in the tank.

stop adding the preventative. if your fish develpos ich, you can use it to clear it out, but yusing it all of the time wont do anything except run the possibility of developing a strain that is resistant to it.
 
I'm sorry, but from what I know of bettas, some of the regular rules of fishkeeping don't apply here!!!

Bettas... natural in-the-wild bettas... live in steaming rice paddies and marshy bogwaters that are soft, acidic and often full of decaying vegetation. Part of the reason bettas and other labrynth fishes adapted to breathing surface air was because the natural water conditions were so harsh on normal fish's gills and was generally stagnant and had little to no oxygen content. They also deal with heavy rains, flooding, and monsoons which cause the water conditions and depths to fluctuate during different times of the year.

They are also used to cramped living conditions due to the low water levels forcing bettas into encounters and struggles for territory in shrinking tropical pools. And when the betta was being domesticated for the generations, it was natural to keep them in nothing more than a jar or other small container until it was to be taken to a fish fight or bred for more bettas.

Granted, today's betta is a much softer, frillier fish than it's tough-as-nails wild counterpart, but a lot of that same sturdiness and adaptability has remained in the species. It can handle rough water conditions, no filtration, and cramped living spaces because this is how this fish has lived and been kept and domesticated over the generations.

I get so tired of people treating the betta like it's as long-suffered as the goldfish. Yes, keeping a goldfish in a bowl is inhumane and terrible treatment... but not all fish are created equal. The only thing inhumane about the 'betta bowl' is the lack of controlled temperature (since bettas like it at least 74 degrees F or warmer!) and the myth that Bettas with those Calla lily plants don't need to be fed. Now THAT is a crock of crap! Bettas are carnivorous and only eat vegetation when they are STARVING.

So there. That's the truth about the betta. My opinion? If you want filtration, go with a sponge filter or something that doesn't aggitate the water's surface. Bettas make their bubble nests best on stagnant water surfaces where the surface tension is thick with dust and particles and not broken up by constant aeration. That's correct. Just don't let it get so stagnant it makes a skin over the water. That can get kinda gross. :P

As long as you keep the water fairly clean, there's no need for anything other than what you're doing. Just make sure and feed him a varied and protein rich diet and if you want, add some blackwater extract to the water. It has a water chemistry that is most like what bettas naturally experience in the wild. He'll LOVE you for it.

I respect a lot of opinions here and many of them go off of years of practical fish keeping and enjoyment of this hobby. But you can own a fish for its entire lifespan and never know the real nitty-gritty about it's preferences, tolerances, and origins. Most people think they can have a betta in a tank for a few years and know everything about how it should be treated. But not all 'fad fish' are created equal. Yes, goldfish in bowls swim in their own waste which eats at their already starved gills until they slowly suffocate to death in a bliving space that would be like stuffing a 6'6" man in a broom closet and asking him to thrive. But that's goldfish, people... not bettas.

Granted, it's not bad treatment to keep them in large, filtered tanks... but some of the 'insisted requirements' around here are honestly over-the-top in my opinion and to insist them on anyone interested in keeping a betta is so unecessary, especially given the information above-mentioned.

I sincerely apologize for ranting in your thread, but this is an issue I feel rather strongly about in this community. And I'm backed by years of breeding, caring, and researching bettas. It was my top hobby and first love as a teenager. :P

PS: Yes, this is reposted... but it's too long a rant to have to rewrite it. ^_^;;
 
I have a betta in a 2.5 gallon tank, and have a Red Sea Nano filter. It's a filter designed for small tanks, and you can adjust the setting on it to have as little current as you want. We have it set on the lowest setting (you just turn the knob), and our betta loves it. He likes to sit under it, just off to the side, and let his tail move gently in the current. Sometimes he plays in it. If he wants a break from it, he just goes elsewhere in the tank. But I think a filter of some sort is a good idea.
 
Bettas can TOLERATE no filtration as long as you are doing many water changes to keep waste and ammonia from accumulating.

However, it's a lot easier to keep a betta healthy with a cycled filter, as it is with ANY fish.

As far as bettas not being able to tolerate any current or bubbles, that is simply not true in most cases. Because of their long fins they can't handle the same amount of current as say, a danio, but once they become conditioned to it they can handle a fair bit of flow, and some seem to love bubbles.

When your betta first encounters the filter output or a bubble stone they may not seem to be able to handle it, just like any other organism that has not gotten any exercise in a long time (such as a betta sitting in a cup) they don't have the strength to fight it yet. Their body should become healthier and they will soon be able to tolerate the flow and perhaps even like it though.

You want to make sure to leave a calm spot in the tank and at the top so they have a place to rest and go up to get air. Keep this in mind and they should be fine.
 
Sponge filters are suggested even for delicate betta fry. My experience with them is that as long as it is positioned close to the water's surface so the bubbles don't get much momentum, it disturbs the water very little.

However, the above-mentioned in-tank filter is also a good idea. Positioned just right with the outflow under the water's surface, they 'swirl' the water without dropping a rippling cascade into it. This prevents the thick film from forming on the water's surface while still allowing it enough stagnation to give your betta a good platform for building a bubblenest out of the water's current.

Just make sure you get a very small submersible system that is adjustable. You can turn it up if the water's too filmy, or turn it down if the current is too strong.

http://www.petfish.net/kb/entry/489/
http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/product/productInfo.web?picGroupKey=10610
http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/product/productInfo.web?picGroupKey=14693

Some options and ideas for ya.
 
I am worried that my betta will not like the air pump because it causes too much disturbance in the water. I prepared my water like you're supposed to, I used the stress coat, bullseye 7.0 ph regulator, stress zyme and also aqua-sol preventative and cure for ick for new fish.

Skip the PH 7.0, it fluxes the ph. Steady "wrong" ph is better than one that changes irregularly.

Keep the Aquarisol for medicating infected fish. You do not need to use it as a preventative except perhaps in cases where you are introducing new fish.

I would definitely look into a filter of some kind. I don't like those UGF filters because they tend to trap crap underneath them, but several good suggestions have been made by others already. Bettas don't need completely still waters to breathe, some agitation is fine so long as it's not overpowering.
 
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